gravelRX

Calebz, just curious, what did you use the 15mm for? Nitpicking, Jay

He will be caravaning with me from Roanoke. Jay

I'd have one too. Jay

Wasn't really going for the polished look, but alot of the aluminum had that funky scale on it and the only way to remove it I found was just to keep cleaning. I still have several cans of high temp clear from doing my wheels if I do clearcoat the alum. clean=cool. How does paint effect that I wonder? Now that my parts are on the way, I fear that I won't have the gumption to tackle the intake assembly as I would really like. Really want to get it running. Replacing all the hoses and relooming the electronics is still my plan. I don't much look forward to going to the dealer for all the preformed hoses and such. As far as the bird. I was also thinking Subaru farmed out some parts. Regards, Jay

Use them to tune the handling of the car like you want by swapping out bars to suite your driving style. Might I suggest swapping and driving very conservatively for a while to get used to the new characteristics of the car. I have quite a collection of front and rear bars for my RX. and have gotten fairly proficient at swapping them for different circumstances.( I am a self-professed oversteer hound). You can also set toe to effect turn in and stability for gravel or pavement. Yes, it will affect tire wear, it's a trade off. Regards, Jay

Bird thingy anyone? what is this thing? Finally getting my parts. Now I really have to get to work and making everything ready for the reassembly and installation. Thanks for the compliments. Scot, my b-i-l, makes jokes that it's the obsessive/compulsive disorder in me coming out. I think the cleaning is kind of cathartic. I look down and 4 hours have past. Updates to follow if anyone is interested, Jay

Looks like a bird to me. Hmmm? Anyone? Meaning? manufacturer icon? Subaru outsource the camboxes? Thanks for the encouragement on the RX, Tex and Hocrest. Jay

Got these pads at Harbor Freight and the chuck to fit into the drill. Most of the cleaning was done with a toothbrush and varsol(sp). What can I say, I'm waiting on my gaskets and engine parts. I haven't posted much about my RX. People have forgotten about it. That's a good thing. Regards, Jay

Slowly getting the parts and pieces in the mail. It's like Christmas but Santa wears brown and drives an aluminum bodied box truck. Finally started to reassemble the various parts that I had torn down for cleaning and repair. Couple pictures. Back at it, Jay

Don't mean to speak for him but once we get the clutch in his wagon, he's basically set for the trip. All you people from VA and farther down the coast, we need to start getting our ducks in a row for a big caravan up the ole 81. Jay

Aside from rev-matching to shift when things are broken or you have to drive a lame car, rev matching is used for downshifting when you want to brake hard and not upset the balance of the car, takes heel toeing to get it right. I can do it in my GL hatch without thinking, but in the family Legacy I'm clumsy. Could break the head off a bobble doll. haven't had much time in the RX to get it right, But Oakland Acres is calling. (Rally cross) Jay

I suspect that Q's from this board will be forthcoming once the word gets out you guys have decided to stop by and browse. Scott, right? Regards, Jay

From what I've gathered, you have to ask them to cut .012 off of the pressure plate mounting surface to get the correct depth in the "step" for the clutch disc. XT6= 0.815 Ea82= 0.827 0.012 I learned of these measurements from clutchmasters, I would really like another source to verify it though. Anyone? Regards, Jay

Well, when mine was lightened and the surface turned, the performance shop that did it turned both the clutch surface and the pp surface. guess he gets a bit more business. Jay

By what has been posted, the easiest way to use the XT6 components would be to bring my flywheel into XT6 specs. Anyone using the EA82 flywheel with the XT6 pp and clutch? Thanks for the input. Jay

Called Clutchmasters today and talked with Lonnie. I ask him the difference between the two. He put me on hold for a minute and came back and told me that from the mounting surface on the flywheel to the surface that the clutch engages is different by .012 inches. The RX is 0.827 and the XT6 is 0.815. He states that the difference of .012 will not let the XT6 pressure plate clamp fully onto the clutch disc and there MAY be slippage in the RPM range. I have read that some people have used this cluch kit with the EA82 flywheel without problems. I had ScotTM measure the flywheel I had lightened and resurfaced with a micrometer and he can't seem to get a consistent reading. (I'm 40 min. away) From 0.815 to 0.825. Any thoughts from anyone? I could take the flywheel back and have the pressure plate mounting surface milled but .... Hmmm Looking for a bit of input. Regards, Jay

Thanks for the pdf. Jay

I just took the heads off tonight. Haven't cleaned them or anything. the cylinder bores on all the pistons looks good. I'm concerned about the cracks though. Jay

What are your thoughts about these pictures? How about those cracks, Eh? gen 3 too! Jay

ScotTM and myself have this on the calender for a go. Seems like my car will never be finished though. Jay

I can put the floor jack in front of the rear tire and the whole side will lift with the rear wheel about 5" off the ground. I can open and close both doors without any problem. I know the history of this car. It's lead a pretty tame life. That's soon to be over. Jay

Alignment shop that is. quick and dirty method. Center the steering wheel and count threads on each side as you turn them on. ( go ahead and attach them, you can rotate the shaft.)Get both the wheels as straight as you can with the ole eyeball method. Find a spot on each front tire that is constant and you consider center for both front tires. Get a tape measure and on the front of the tire about four( give or take) from the ground measure the front of the tire. Now measure the back of the tire. Even? No? Turn the tie rods in or out equally on both sides (count again for accuracy). Check the steering wheel. Straight? Good. If you mess with this long enough you can get a fairly even toe. Take to an alignment shop soon. When I did it the tech was surprised that I had gotten it on the money for even toe. I had him toe it out a bit for the gravel. Screw the tire wear! Positive toe can get you sharper turn in, but high speed stability suffers. Tire wear, blah, blah, blah. If you have to ever do it again, borrow some bright finger nail polish and mark the tie rod before disassembly. I move my tie rods ends so much it looks like I ran over a hooker. Good luck. Fri. Night Jay

So you have had 6 days short of 5 MONTHS to produce pictures of this car. Smells like one of JWs first posts to me. Hey, but I'm an optimist, would like to see pictures of the FMIC to see how you plumbed the tubing. BTW, I had a 1965 Buick GS 401. Ah, What a sleeper. Jay

I've been quietly lurking in the background awaiting pictures of this car. Not going to call BS, nope. Want to see pictures. Pictures. Look forward to seeing the specs on the FMIC and associated plumbing. Regards, Jay

As you know from your links, you can modify a yugo to go fairly quick with Fiat parts. Is that your plan? I read in another post you were looking at rewooding your wagon. If your not looking for a decal, I think veneer(sp) might work. Weatherproofing it might be tough though. Paint it a seamist green color and paint a darker green tropical jungle scene (fill it with foliage) in the wood inset part. I've always wanted to do that. Jay