gravelRX

All I thought of when I saw this was Miles Fox. Jay

My RX had a sreen on the input side of the pump that had the trash built up in it. It only has the one filter in the front IIRC. Don't know the specifics of you Brat but I would start there and then move to the access panel to the float in the tank. If the hanger for the float is nasty it's probably the tank. Had mine cleared and sealed for 100.00. Jay

Gas tank debri? Hey, you said ideas, you didn't say good ones. My RX would idle fine and could stand and rev, but once you put a load on it, died. Turned out to be the gas tank. Jay

Start the car and the charge light is on, lightly flickering, never completely off. Get up into the higher RPM and it gets brighter. You can see the Ebrake light at night. Turn on the lights and the brake fluid indicator comes on. Recently at start-up the windshield wipers will take one swipe when the car is started. I am going to recheck the alt. right now for problems, it checked out OK when I installed it hoping to cure this problem. New battery a month ago too. Voltage was running 14.56 at the battery last time I checked. Since then the volts have been looking on the high side while driving. Flip on the lights to drop them a bit, keep driving. I've been ignoring this problem and just driving other cars, but the windshield wipers coming on all by themselves is a bit much when I use this car to haul stuff. I have the wiring diagram and the car is basically a stripper as far as accessories, but man, That's a bunch of wires. If the alt and battery show good, I'm betting on a short somewhere. But where? ON EDIT: Took the Alt and had it checked. Bad Diode. Replaced Alt and found questionable wiring splices under dash. Previous owners are so much fun. Thanks for the help. Jay

OK, You got your XT seats, flip 'em over and cut off the original seat mounting brackets, not the adjustable runners. Get you some 1x1" box tubing and weld it to the inner runner that adjusts the travel of the seat. Put in EA81 car. Now, take some flat stock and cut it into 4" strips with appropriate holes for the original bolts. Check alignment with holes in floor. Tack weld them in or if your afraid of fire(I was), mark them and tack outside the car. Check that the bolt holes line up, finish welding. I had to cut the carpet because I made my tabs too short. I also used 2x1" in the front to make it a bit of a rake. I'm tall. Jay

3m make what is essentially a big, round eraser for a drill. Even smells like a pencil eraser when you use it. Doesn't hurt paint. Local paint supply store. Cheap, say 7 $, lasts a long time. I took the aftermarket pinstipes off my RX and Legacy. Jay

Tex, Do you have the Autometer gauge? Mine sits at stoic until it gets warm also. I've got the 260 grind and idle is around 900-1000. It has a chunky, lopey, nervous idle. Took me quite a while to get the idle somewhat square with my car. The FSM says to set the timing at 700. Hell, mine won't idle at 700. What's a guy to do? I ended up timing mine by ear and then checking it with the light. It reads around 29-30 but that's at 900-1000. What does your boost/vac. gauge read at lower RPM? Garner, Just to add and get a comparison my a/f gauge once it gets hot, is constantly searching the lower lean to mid rich. If I get into the boost it reads rich, but doesn't go full rich. Coming down the mountain with my foot off the gas I can get the lights to go completely out to the lean side. Sorry I'm not more help Tex. Jay Are we discussing the same gauges?

Thanks for the compliments. I used the turbowagon dash so I have the original dash if I need it. Took a few tries to line up the gauges with the plastic surround. The pain was taking the dash apart and rerouting the lines and wires. Didn't quite get the top gauge centered in the surround like I wanted, but after the third try with the plastic I said "Good Enough!" and put it all back together. All Talk: Running factory boost until I get my FMIC hooked up. When I am in the boost the gauge registers on the rich side. Can't recall the range of the gauge ottomh. Archemitis: what car were you running the gauges? Got a picture? I think the older EA82 cars would be easier to mount gauges in this spot. One more picture. Regards, Jay

I had my gauges mounted in the pocket below the radio and didn't like looking away from the road to check things; felt clunky. Took the dash out of the turbo wagon and checked the depth against the Autometer Boost and A/F gauges, looked to be enough room. With a lot of help from my trusty Dremel and 3 tries, got them to fit. Had to reroute all the wires and the pressure line. Going to rewire the rear defrost switch into one of the blanks lower on the same side. Guess this is a good of a reason as any to clean the inside of the car. That's next. Much easier to see while driving. Don't like the reflection from the sun and haven't driven the car at night. I'm hoping the A/F gauge flickering LEDs aren't going to be a distraction, We'll see. Regards, Jay

I'm not one to point things out but let's back up for a second. Start with an easy one. 1.The word your looking for is performance, not porformace. 2.Try using the search function, it's your friend. Qman even did some leg work for you. Knowledge is power. 3. General Disorder gave good info and you come back with a dig. nice. 4. A not so subtle crack about Subarus not being worth spending 300.00 to make them better. Ah, did you notice the name of the website your perusing? My apologies to the board for the conduct, but it had to be done. Jay

Thought I'd stick this in here too. First time it's been clean since Nov. of last year. Jay

A picture of the adapter would be nice. In a few week, I don't know if there will be any room in front of the radiator for an oil cooler too. Jay

If you mounted the new pads yourself, and don't know who mounted the previous pads, check to make sure that the parking brake was not adjusted mid-wear from the previous pads. If it was adjusted when the previous pads were near the end of their life then it's probably too tight for the new pads you installed. The parking brake could be too tight and causing your new pads to rub by not backing off the rotor. Let us know what you find out. Regards, Jay

Installed the lights on the car. Going to get the XT6 alt Thurs. and finish the wiring with a good weatherproof connector. Here is what it looks like so far. Jay

Please post his Email address on USMB. I'm sure there are quite a few people that could maybe clue him in. Not like he doesn't know already! Jay

I used the spray on copper coat on my EA82T headgaskets. Had to get back into the engine and didn't use the spray on the advice of a longtime subaru tech the second time around. He said the gaskets(subaru factory) comes with the sealer cast into it. .02 Jay

Haven't run them yet, hoping the lights don't block the grill too bad. Yes, it's just stock bar with tabs. The bolts in the bumper were the pita. I'm guessing the stock Alt. is not going to like them very much. JWX, The hatch is getting a Weber and I'm going to address the rust. I'll repost it for sale with more appropriate price soon as I'm done. Regards, Jay

VA is very strict as far as running more than 6 lights total on the front of your car. That includes highbeam/lowbeam. IIRC. Don't want to draw any attention. None. You can't even hear this car unless I get on the go pedal. Thanks Hocrest. Regards, Jay

I've got a rebuilt tranny with papers for a front wheel drive 90 Legacy from a parts car I had. 200.00 Sold my Legacy. Jay

So go ahead and get you some 205/50 15's, preferably some sticky ones. Cut 1/2 a coil out of the front to lower it a bit.(don't worry when winter comes, use the factory adjustment to get it back up to fit the snowtires), clock the rear torsion bar one tooth on the outside ends to lower the rear(same for the snowtires for the rear). Find an XT6, get the rear swaybar, cut two inches off the ends, make some mounts for the lower control arms, get some GR2's for the back(Good luck with the front!), weld. While your in the yard getting the Swaybar, find the rear discs from a 4WD XT, don't forget the little hard lines and clips, and install those. 2" exhaust from the heads, you didn't forget to strip the emmissions and get that Weber did you? How about the Blaster 2 coil? OK, do all that and deliver it to Bent Mountain here in VA. Oh, Did you say you wanted it TALLER? Regards, Jay Sharp Brat.

Test fitting the light bar with Hella fog and driving lights. Want to be able to remove them because I don't want to be a cop magnet. Just an old Subaru, nothing to see here. When I get to the fire roads, I will take them out of the storage bin in the back under the floor, and mount them. Going to get a waterproof pin connector for the wires and a small lock for the mounting points, don't want them to be too removable. Fabricated up the bar with little feet so the bolts from the light mounts wouldn't hit the bumper. Mounting bolts are welded into the bumper support so the lights won't jiggle going down the road. This bumper is the ugliest I have, when I go to paint the car I'll use the same bumper support and make the holes in the better bumper cleaner with rubber grommets. bar with the lights attached. Constructive criticism appreciated. Regards, Jay

Double clutching and rev matching are both good things in the right application, say, 56 Ford 4x4 and autocrossing. If you do them enough the motions with become ingrained and you will not think about it when you do it. Because I rally and autocross fairly frequently, I have gotten used to using both feet to brake and downshift and I try not upset the balance of the car. I unconsciously do it while driving everyday. Not perfect every time mind you, but I'm working on it. I'm curious Phillip, How exactly was the clutch designed to be used? Jay

Ran into a snag when putting this bar on the back of the car. My Cambell Hausfeld wire feed welder decided to quit working properly. The wire is ALWAYS hot now. So you can't position it where you want it and start welding. I went ahead and used it, don't like the welds very much, but penetration was good and it got the job done. Went and bought a Lincoln Electronics PRO MiG 135T mig welder today, going to go get a tank of argon/CO2 for it tomorrow. Got a self darkening mask too. The welder and the mask are a big difference, BIG. After the fact, but good none the less. This should definately help the fabrication projects. Jay

Should have it completely done on Sun. I'll snap some pictures for you. Jay

I'm around 3 hours South of Harrisonburg on 81. Quite a drive. You will be fairly close to Orange, Va where I do my rallycrossing. Heck, by this time next year my car should either be finished and painted or balled up in a ball. Regards, Jay