gravelRX

I didn't get to go but it sounds like a good time was had by all. Hocrest, I saw your post about the meet in another forum and it included a nod to my car being there, Sorry to leave you hanging out with the post. This is about what my RX looked like for that weekend. Things are better with the RX. Not quite where I want to be, but closer. Sorry I didn't get to go. Regards, Jay

Wasn't going for pretty, just functional. XT6 bar is installed, just have to reinforce the mounting points this weekend. Have swapped out the rear shocks and discs from a turbo wagon, going for the front struts Sat. This is my 1986 wagon, the low dollar mobile, so I wasn't interested in finding the lower control arms with the mounts to swap in. More pictures to come if anyone is interested. Jay Carfreak, this will work for the EA81 cars too.

I just removed my crossover pipe on the RX without undoing anything. I ran the car up onto ramps and it gave me the ground clearance to get it out. Lots of spatial relations and patience though. Oh, I see it's an XT, are they that different? I say get it onto some jack stands and go at it. If you get it off take it to a muffler shop and have it repaired. Just so the shop doesn't have to move the mounting points you will be OK for the reinstall. I'm currently building a jig that will hold all of the mount points solid and in position to fabricate a bigger diameter(less restrictive) crossover/uppipe for my turbo car. Good Luck with yours. .02 Regards, Jay

Damn. No really, DAMN. Whoever is piloting that Subaru has a set. That is commitment to the task. Jay

Dealer installed A/C is positioned different than factory A/C. Jay

CCR EA82T is about 1800.00 shipped. New heads. Jay

The adapter ring seems straightforward enough, it's dealing with the added space within the shaft /throwout bearing / pilot bearing / starter parts et al., that I've got the slew of questions about how it fits. care to elaborate on the fitment on the inside? Jay

Just walked outside to see if i had the old flywheel handy, but I must have put it somewhere. IIRC, The holes go into the pressure plate/clutch area. I wouldn't try to start the engine with it in there, bad things could happen. I recommend turning the assembly over with a socket and going from there. Sat. night, Jay

IIRC, watch for the intake fitment when you reassemble, it's going to be tight. Don't know if that's enough to have to make the holes in the intake a bit oval to fit correctly. the tolerances aren't that tight. Hmm. Keep us updated. Good info to know. Jay

If in fact you do this swap, I would be interested in the 16" wheels. If your selling. Steel or Alloy? Jay

A manual transmission in an SVX? You do the swap? Jay

William, Have you done the head gaskets yet? Jay

Ran the car for about two hours total, longest time was 45 minutes. Gave it a 'I don't care, Blow it up' run too. Machine shop looked at the heads today and they check out OK. Need to check valve spring tomorrow. May send the cam back to Delta to verify OK. Going to reassemble with new lash adjusters and factory cam to see how it does. If it doesn't run correctly, I'm going to rebuild the bottom end of the other turbo motor I have and start from there. At this rate, I probably won't make Carlisle with it. damn. Jay

To the top, c'mon guys. Looking for input. Corky, Skip, Qman, Moosens any input? Jay

Haven't checked the springs to see which one they are. Will do tonight. I have another set of lash adjusters that only have 21K on them, so they are going in once I get the head pressure checked again. Did the compression check on a hot(wet)and cold(dry) engine. Same #'s both times. A bit lower on the cold test. Did the leak down test on cold only. Thought it would be worse. Unfortunately, before I started this rebuild, I didn't check compression and ASSumed because the engine was running so well that everything as far as rings was up to snuff. Now I definately wish I would have done it. At least to take it out of the equation now. rings on # 3? But blowby wouldn't explain #1. See how pretty! Jay

Looks functional, and that's all that matters. Welding aluminium is a black art. Throttle response should be crazy quick when you get the Delortos' in tune. I had a 70 240 and getting the SUs' tuned was a pain, but when they were right, so nice. Jay

The timing was money on. Car actually gets up and goes pretty well considering. Well, until I tore it apart again. Jay

GLCraigGT beat me to it. Jay

Finally got the bugs worked out of the ignition system in the RX. I was only getting one pulse from the crank angle sensor to the computer, instead of four. Checked all, and I mean all the wiring, and found the open circuit in the harness before it goes into the firewall. Car will start and run if you keep the revs up, will not idle. Hell, it’s pretty impressive for a 2 ½ cylinder car. Now a new problem has arisen that is taking all the fun out of this rebuild. Compression check wet and dry gives me cylinder #3 at 50lb. and cylinder #1 at 25lbs. Car was timed correctly. I did a leak down test on both the cylinders with the cam case removed and timing belt off passengers’ side, exhaust manifolds off and the throttle plate open. When I charged the cylinders with compressed air (150lb) it resulted in the piston turning to its lowest position, no leaks from int or exh., and a very slow hiss from the oil passages leading to the pan. Both cylinders leak past the rings slowly at about 5lbs in 15 seconds. I don’t think this is excessive enough to cause the low compression by bad rings. Test was done on a cold engine. I had the heads gone through, three angle valve job, new seals, and pressure checked before they were installed. Pulled the head and the headgasket does not show any signs of leaking, Looks like it did when I put it on the car (47 lbs.). Heads off the car and fill the intake passages up with fluid, no leaks. Same results with the exhaust side. Mounted the cam case with the cam(Delta) and checked open/close and the valve seats, it’s all good. The lash adjusters are suspect. When I pulled them while rebuilding they spent most of the time sitting on the bench upright. They got knocked over a few times. Soaked them for a while and attempted to pump them up submerged in oil, but they would not compress. Could bad lash adjusters cause the low compression by holding the valves open? I’ve got 10 days to find this problem and fix it and I am at a loss. Carlisle is coming up and a stock 2002 Legacy is not my ride of choice. . I've got pictures of everything I did when I put this engine back together. I've looked for the Wiley Coyote sign that says something was wrong and I'm not seeing it. You want to see something to get an idea of wear and tear or what I've done, let me know. Looking for educated guesses Thanks, Jay BTW, If you have taken the time to read this post, reply with your suggestions. what can it hurt and you might lead me to the culprit. thanks again, J

Bump stops are progressive, like the spring are from the factory. They are tapered at the top on most cars. Jay

I don't think the rear end in that fragile. Some of those 510's that get this rear are strong. I'm talkin turbocharged, intercooled, newer JDM, roarting, snorting stuff. Lots of letters and numbers in the designation. Maybe they break the diffs too? Mavbe the people doing this convert the diffs into snorting stuff too. stubs different? More info needed. Who has broken one? People put 302's into Miatas. Saturday night, Jay

Hocrest, Unless I can get the passenger side head and all the lash adjusters out, get the new head in, and have some confidence inspiring time with the car(about three days) Looks like it's going to be my 85 wagon or the 02 Legacy. Story to follow. Dammit, Jay

Edited to clean up thread. Jay

ScotTM is Scot. Just one T. Jay

Blue it is, Thanks, Jay