gravelRX

Fellow named Kerry Galliger(sp) rubuild@aol.com He sells the rebuild ones for 80.00 plus a 15.00 core. Regards, Jay Thanks to Emily

You say the word and I'll take it off. Didn't drive the car much, but IIRC, the hill holder worked well. The car has 80K on it. it was in better shape than the RX with the exception of a little parking pole rash on the front L fender. Regards, Jay

My parts car only has 80k on it. I just took the one off the RX and although the bracket has some surface rust, the HH looks good so the parts car one could be for sale. If the one on the wagon looks in really good shape I'll sell it to you if you like. Let you know tonight. I'll get pictures. Regards, Jay Looks like something was seeping onto it from above. If your interested, I'll take it off and give it the closer eyeball. Make me a good offer, funds go to RX rebuild.

The fuel filter is one I scrounged out with two outlets for a underhood fuel pressure gauge so I could diagnose a fuel delivery problem. Turned out to be the gas tank. 60.00 later, all cured. Going to replace all the seals in the engine I can get to without taking the heads off. Car has really good compression, even and high from cylinder to cylinder. Getting the stock flywheel surfaced and hopefully lightened, will know about the lightening part on Mon. None of the shops that I've talked to want to do the work without me giving them blood. Someone on the board does the lightening, who was it? How much? Humm, something to look into. Shipping would be a bitch. Does anyone sell the breather cover for the back of the engine? I haven't even inquired as of yet. Thinking about the spider intake but the two I have are from non turbo engines. Modifications sound like a hassle for the benefits gained. Today I am going to jump onto the putty knife and start on the engine compartment. Haven't gotten my parts from CCR so don't want to dissasemble the engine yet. The time between disassembly and assembly makes the process a little fuzzy on the reassembly end. Hoping to quiz the fellow about how the Delta cam are working out but he's having a little sealing problem. I was told by someone that the N/A cams have a more aggressive grind, but thinking differences in overlap from the N/A and turbo would cause some sort or stumble. More research needed. Jay

Something was obviously leaking, wouldn't you say? Cam box on the passengers side seems to be the culprit. Also the little sheet metal plate behind the flywheel is looking to take second place in the contest for the car marking it's territory. notice the air-con connections in the firewall are devoid of those pesky lines. This is basically where I stand as of now. Going to clean up the engine compartment and fix the surface rust. ( for you people on the west coast, it's the light red colored stuff on the drivers frame rail) Jay

Took the 87 RX apart for a reseal, cams, intercooler, hi-po clutch, lightened flywheel, timing belts and an air conditioning strip. I've got a LOT of cleaning to do. Jay

Rivets are friction material, Right? Don't think they started making contact, but my timing, I must say, is very close. Jay

Took it apart just in time i think. Was slipping when I got into the boost. Jay

EXACTLY, to a tee. 1998 2.5 RS coupe with 91,000 miles. I ran it hard but was religious in maintenance and used synthetic oil from 15K. The dealer tried to get me to replace the engine. Even down to the film in the overflow. Like yours, it only did it every once in a while, I could have sold it with the headgasket like that but car karma would have gotten me sooner or later. 1300.00 later and sold the car for payoff plus 2000.00 dollars. ( gave the new owner all the records and receipts too) Karma indeed. Jay if you have any Q's, email me at jaykili(at)cox.net

Tex, I did put the bigger XT6 swarbar on the rear of my RX. Can really say how it's changed from stock because I never drove the car before the swap, at least not in anger.. I doubt the way it handles now is a good comparison because both rear shock are completely blown. Car is apart as we speak. With the bad rear shocks the car handles fairly neutral, more on the understeer side to be honest. I think with no damping in the rear I have alot of weight transfer from rear to front that I won't have when I put the new shocks on the back. I have the original bar for the rear, a 2wd XT6 bar, and a 4WD bar (same?)in the garage so I'll be tweeking when it's up and running. Have three for the front too. I let you know when I finish my rebuild and finally get to drive it again. Thanks for the info on the front struts. Did your ride height change in the front at all? What year RS did you use? Jay

Hey guy. Your car looks good with the Impreza wheels on it, MEATY. When I swapped out my RX factory stuff with the XT6 parts in the front, The ride height was dropped by about 2". Now, not that I'm going mud bogging or anything, but the height difference has got me hesitating on the whoopdies on my favorite gravel roads and I'm not liking the "tarmac stance" as much as I thought. Hinders balls out blasts down the single tracks. Would you tell me about your front suspension and how you got to where you are now? ie, What struts did you use, spring compatability, top of the strut? Etc. Thanks for the rundown in advance. Jay

Everyone is all about the spider intake. Someone please supply info regarding the benefits of swapping the regular type intake on a turbo car to the spider intake. I have two spider intakes( sure, make me an offer) sitting in the garage and am about to take apart my RX for resealing and a little massage. Should I do the swap? I am guessing that the flow characteristics are better but has anyone done the swap and noticed any difference in HP or seat of the pants? Hard imperical evidence would be nice, but opinions are welcome. Bring on the Tech! Curious, Jay

All the production staff has to hang around and see if what we built kills any of the actors on stage. theatre saying "If you build it, the actors will break it" Jay

My 87 RX did the exact same thing. I did all the things you have and found it by running a pressure gauge on the line at the engine and a gas line to the pump from a jug. Check the screen on the inlet in the fuel pump from the gas tank, it usually has a screen in it. Look for rust or debris. Good Luck and let everyone know how it works out. Jay

Scott, I will be there in the RX, probably be it's maiden Rally. I was surprised at the results in the GL last time I was there, hopefully the RX will perform better. you going to drive this next time? Jay

I'm up for it. Pinning down a date is going to be the bitch. I'm thinking sometime in Jan. Jay

I've had yard art in my yard that resembles a 1990 Leg. wagon for a couple months because of lack of info to diagnose. Thank you so very much for the link. Jay

I really miss Johnny Cash. Nice video. Jay

Would like to see pictures of this rack installed. Jay

Mine came with the eight hole rally wheels when I got it. Wouldn't it be an option for the year car offered? They do it now. Why not in 1987? Does anyone have any 1987 literature? Wouldn't it be nice if FHMW kept up with this kind of stuff and had a database somewhere. I totally agree with the hubcaps being bland. Kind of a factory sleeper look in 87 though. Jay

Mine is just leaking bad. Think I've got a cam box on the pass. side and something up front has put a nice burned glop on the crossover pipe. Come to a stop at a light and the smoke comes out of the hoodline. Looks like it's on fire. Nice. Just from a cursory glace it seems to be coming from around the oil pump. Tearing it down in the next month to do a reseal and hopefully pipe in the intercooler with a bit more reliability and about 10 lb of boost. Trying to work out a front mount so I don't have to deal with the intercooler being a heat sink in the engine bay. We'll see. Good luck with selling your RX. I've talked it up to a few people. I might still have those pictures of your RX if you want me to scan them and send them to you, let me know. Regards, Jay

Thanks for the link, Toybuilder. I'm going to check out more on the gaskets. IIRC, Emily said that most of them were OEM or Felpro. Jay

These prices are current from Emily at CCR as of 10/10/03. I'm doing the same thing with my EA82T. Cam seals - 2 @ 5.50 Cam o-rings - 2 @ 2.77 Cam tower o-rings - 2 @ 2.20 Timing belt tensioners, 23.45 & 23.67 Idler bearing - 44.75 Timing belts - 21.56 & 25.16 Valve cover gaskets - 4.40 & 3.20 Valve cover bolt seals - 9 @ 1.50 Front main seal - 5.05 Rear main seal - 11.10 Water pump - 29.95 Oil pump - 59.95 Oil pump gasket - 3.95 Oil pan gasket - 3.66 Intake manifold gaskets - 2 @ 6.20 Valve stem seals (optional) 15.00/set Oil filler tube gasket - .75 Hope this helps. The prices seem competitive with local prices, and it's the same gaskets and such they use for their rebuilds. See anything I missed? Regards, Jay

3M makes a decal remover that you chuck into the end of a screwgun or drill. Basically it's a big, round, pencil eraser for your car. I removed all the pinstripes on my RX with it. The older stickers just disappear. The newer stickers, like one set of my pinstripes, leaves a bit of adhesive, I just got the rest off with WD40 and then cleaned it well and waxed it. Check your local paint supply store. Regards, Jay

All good info. Will delve further into the cam mystery. Good to know about the mounts, Corky. Tex, Just talked to my xt6 source, He scrapped the extra engine he had on mon., so the hunt is on again for the flywheel. There are two XT6s' in a lot near here, both for 300, both automatics with air suspension. I'll keep looking. Jay