gravelRX

I used the black plastic from the coin tray that goes under the no cassette radio and cut it to fit. After I destroyed that in the first try, I switched to the coin tray from the 02 Legacy. I had another complete console, so I wasn't worried about blowing it up too bad. Ended up with a lot of plastic scrapnel all over the place from the Dremel before I finally got it to fit. I should have went with the rivets. much more utilitarian look. Jay Where are you thinking of putting the defrost switch? And that hole shape was a MF'er to duplicate, wasn't it? seemed random.

Moved my gauges there after trying them in the console in front of the shifter. Much easier and safer to read when on the fly. Hope yours wasn't as big of a PITA to get right. three freakin tries on my install. My rear defrost hanging behind the panel. Looks like I'm about to second guess that decision real soon. Calling for snow on Sat. When I put them in it was 80 degrees, Baa, who needs rear defrost. Welcome to Dec. Jay

Ever heard the saying " There are two types of Rally drivers, those that have rolled and those that will"? He is now in the first catagory, with conviction I might add. Jay

Cut and pasted from another thread from WJM. I've been dubbed "The best AWD Subie Launcher, EVER" by a few fellow autox'ers. Heres my method on a 2000 RS...street and Autox...with either the stock clutch/flywheel setup, or the stock clutch setup with a 14lb flywheel.... Street: 2 options...fast an noisy, or quiet and deadly...Fast: Build revs to 4k...preload the drive train and hold the car with the hand brake...then GO. GO being let the clutch out rather fast...let it out to the point it really grabbs, only slipping a TEENY bit...and once the car is moving procede to get your foot off the pedal...that usually happens within 1/4 of a second....Preloading being...basically 'riding' the clutch...what this does it have the clutch disc and springs loaded, the gears all mated together, the driveshaft loaded, the rear diff loaded...and the axles loading...so the clutch and tires are the only slipping point...so 1st gear wont break no were NEAR as easily as a 'side step' at 6k or so, and the axles wont suddenly be 'snap loaded' and break...thats the real secret to launching a WRX these days...and really anything else and not make it break. Quiet: revs at 1k...preload...and this is a really comlicated matter of letting the clutch out and applying power to the clutch at 1k and not slipping it/reving beyond that until the clutch grabs at 1k and everything is locked together and revs can now pass 1k. Its ULTRA smooth and the ultra 'sleeper' launch....the ricer beside you that reved at you...and you dont respond thinks he's not gonna race you...but you quiet launch the car and are GONE while hes still trying to slip and go with his 2500 rpm take offs. Autox: Same as the "FAST" launch...but harder/faster and with more preload. Now...1999 RS with Cobb spicey cams and Kevelar (sp?) racing 5 puck clutch (i think thats it...i know its a kevelar) and a 9.5 lb flywheel...same ways as before...but the "FAST" option is even more harder and faster due to the nature of the clutch/less mass of flywheel. Street starts are no different tho...but the clutch doe NOT need to slip at all. It gets hot...and slips like snot on a door knob...or worse. Now...for the main event...launching a Full Time 4WD EA82 Turbo car really fast!!!!!!!!!!!!!`!1!~!!!!!!!!!one~!!! This method applies to BOTH stock and unstock weight flywheels. Fast: Revs to 4k (or whatever). Preload. time to go? Ok. Foot to floor, wait to 5k, and one nice smooth transition off the clutch predal that takes 1/4 sec or less. Once the car builds boost, if you are still slipping the clutch (stock clutch setups) the clutch will SLIP SLIP SLIP...SMOKE...and you will have just toasted the clutch. The clutch need to be grabbiing the flywheel and no longer slipping just as the car is building boost and moving past the 3psi mark...OR SO...but if its built up to over 6psi and 5500...say bye bye clutch and hello smoke and new clutch soon. The XT6 is no better than the stock ones...its just got more inital grab to it. Ive done these launches time and time again. Never had issues of any sort(other than when trying to get the launch perfected, smoking clutches...). It will break 215/50/13 Khumo V700 R compound tires loose. the street launch, i'll do the 2000 rpm hold, WOT to about 3500~4000...and ive got it preloaded and do the 'pedal job' and the car is gone with a little bit of bog...otherwise, the quiet and deadly one works fine too at the state of tune the wagon was in...the RX doent have any balls until 4k+ right now.... :-\ There ya go! __________________ May need to alter this technique a bit for a longer clutch life. Jay

Kudos to you for all the effort. I do have to disagree with the "sleeper" comment. With all the stickers you have pasted all over the exterior I think it's become the antithesis of a sleeper. Probably the first old style subaru ricer I've ever seen. Pokin' fun, Jay

I've got these on the family car, no complaints. I rotated them and will have to again because of the wifes driving style (full push), but they seem to be holding up very well. Great in the snow. Jay

Sharp. Screw buying stuff you can build. If you don't like it, try again. Soon as I get these shows built (theatre), I'm going to start on my piping for the FMIC and the header/crossover. I like seeing what people can build. For the price of the TWE pieces, someone could buy a wire feed welder and build all of it. To each his own. Keep the board updated on the performance enhancement or other changes. Good job. Jay

Roanoke, Va. Jay

Mine is fairly neutral tending towards oversteer. I've done quite a bit to the suspension. Will has seen it run, although he can attest to it not being able to beat a car with slicks in the same event. Regards, Jay

Wow, A post back from the dead. Thanks for the reply. It was the ECU. Fixed and sold. Regards, Jay

Yeah, most of the people on this board would easily recognize it as something a bit different than an econobox. Now the general public and most dabbling automotive people might have a bit more trouble. It's surprised more than a few people headed up the Parkway in the mountains. I'm also hoping that most of the police officers don't see it as anything other than an econobox. Wasn't worried about the looks but my surface rust on the A pllars has gotten a bit farther gone than I like. Going to start working on the body as soon as the garage gets empty. Haven't decided on a color yet. More than likely I will paint it original and add the decals before I spray the clear. Opinions on painting the steel wheels white? Jay Thanks for the compliment carfreak.

Does it look like an RX? Would you recognize this car as anything other than a DL if you saw it on the road? If someone could photoshop the wheels to white, I''d like to see it. Thinking about doing it, but just can't seem to visualize it. Comments welcome. Regards, Jay

I'll be a no show for this one. Working on Seusical the Musical at the theatre and have a few fabrication projects to finish up. Let me know how bumpy the track has gotten so I can decide whether to bring the RX(lowered a bit) or if it's going to bottom out. If standard WRX's aren't having any problems, I shouldn't either. Say Hi to Blaster88 (I forget his name) and tell him to whomp on some WRX's for me. Jay

On the hatch the wheelbase is shorter so in the switchbacks and harder corners it may be a bit twitchy with the taunter suspension. My hatch had stiffer suspension and a bigger rear swaybar. Only part of driving it that gave me any pause was the long fast sweepers because it wanted to oversteer sharply. Mucho commitment to drift a bigger sweeping corner because the car would try to swap ends. If I had it to do over again I would try to balance the F and R swaybars better, But how it was set up was fun at any speed. I say do it and then get the balance to your liking. Regards, Jay

Still talking about the remote with the wife. Can you get me the passengers side mirror glass for a 2002 Legacy? The housing is fine, just need the "object are closer than they appear" part.(This includes black trash cans at 40 mph.) What info do you need and how much? Thanks, Jay

Interested in the security upgrade for the 02 Legacy (H7110LS200). Right now I have to unlock the doors with a key, but the lock button on the drivers door unlocks all of the doors including the hatch. I'd like to upgrade to the key fob unlock/lock. Please PM me with more details on what the kit includes and it's functions. (or a link) Thanks, Jay

I vote for the Hella 500's from Susquehanna motorsport. They turn the road into DAYTIME in front of the car. Fogs are in the center with driving to the outside. I made the mount removable and the wires go through a trailer hitch plug for removal when I'm in the seedier parts of town. I still overdrive them a bit when going down the parkway at night. Great for spotting the furry little suicidal creatures before they get it the grill. About 75.00 a set shipped and includes wiring, switch and relay. Jay

Now that is Fabrication with a capital F! I am impressed. Jay

Don't recall whose car, or where I got the picture. Apologies for the theft. Jay

I'll be building a rear swing out spare tire carrier as soon as I get settled into my new garage. I'll snap some pictures. Jay

I also had a set of these for three years. Used them only in the winter up until this year. I highly recommend getting these. They are discontinued, so Barretire is the only place I've found them recently. Made by Goodyear. I just bought the last five of 195/65 14's from them. They are the only ones not available with stud holes. The tread pattern is different, but the sidewall reads as the same tire. TREAD PATTERN No rubbing with the suspension stock. A bit big for my taste but now I really have a reason to build a lift. The first set I had was a different tread pattern. I hope these are as competent. Jay

Don't think I've seen the light deflectors. Do you have a picture for reference? J

Nks, I just reread your post and understand what your saying now, I agree. Brian, Wondering if the lights set that far back on the roof and that low would illuminate the road well? Sure would light up the top of the car. My thought was to put them on the lower crossbar of the next one I build. I really don't want them to stick up above the top of the rack, more integrated. thinking the next rack will be a -+foot longer to position the front of the rack about center of the front door. I like your idea of a light bar addition. I could wire it up to be removable too. Thanks for the compliments. Regards, Jay **Looking at the lift kits that are being built. It just doesn't seem that hard to do. The info on them seems to be quite proprietary, so I'll end up making mistakes that could be avoided if it was shared. Then again I haven't really asked anyone for advice either. Maybe I should. Hmm.

Right now it's bolted to the outermost roof rails. Not the best way but I wanted to get it home and out of the shop. I have designs on gutter rail holddowns but have yet to get the free time to build them. I wouldn't trust the current mounting for much weight but it's attached. Probably hold whatever the factory rails are rated, weight wise. I have a jig set up to duplicate this rack without too much problem and wouldn't mind building these for a bit of a profit, but shipping them would be the big deal killer. Jay

Thanks for the compliments. Cost was 60.00. The next one won't be as expensive as I have leftover steel from this go and I'm going with thinner walled tubing. Someone has made these before. Who was it? I'd like to copy the half surround for the spare tire but want to give credit for the idea. Next rack will have a 'Yakima like' flat angled front with notches for the lights so they don't protrude over the top of the rack. Jay