bajavwnsoobnut

not is but was parting out A 83 wagon ya goofball lol cause you hafta remember I do have a 83 that IS still in existance lol

yep glad you made it back safely too and guys believe me it is worth it cause it did take him some years to get it done

well for praticality sakes go with a ea-81 powered car cause the parts are readily accessable for parts but the ea-71 powered gen 2's are also good.... but if you want a lil bit more room for the noggin then a Gen 1 stage 2 wagon or brat would be good also cause the parts are also sorta easy to find pending where you are at..... and as Myxalplyx said DO STAY AWAY FROM THE AUTOS!!!!!

well I am just talking ea-81 in general I have a PS setup from a EA-81 and its way different from the manual rack of the EA-81 and it's crossmember

yeah then change the filters and that makes me think of talking to some Aircraft maintenance shops about how to put a test port in place of the plug on the bottom of the tank for the 83 and also when I do the 76 it's gettin a fuelcell so I might also request that a test port is added to the bottom of the tank also considering the company I am going to go through makes aviation bladder tanks for aircraft also if you don't understand what I am talking about usualy on a checklist for an aircraft there is one to check off for taking what looks like a vial with a small tube sticking out of the center of the top opening that when you stick it into a testport on the aircrafts fuel tanks in the wings it lets out some gas to check it for water cause it is a safety issue

he's a Cali man so I rather doubt there would be any rust on it and usualy the ea-71 and ea-81 powered cars are alot more rugged and the motors are bulletproof but as Dave has said you have to be up on the maint for coolant system i.e. flush every 2 years or use prestone extended life coolant that is usualy orange in color and also use Redlines water wetter too and oh yeah one good idea is also since your in Cali if you can get one get a 2 row rad too considering the temps you guys get down there in the summer but a new stock rad would be the minimum edit: just realized why Roseville sounded familiar been through it a few times on my way to Reno from Yuba City with my parents when I was younger and maybe just a stock replacement is all you need just keep up on the coolant

that's the point unless you have the correct crossmember for the job it won't work anyways unless you want to cut a big ole notch out and stuff

yeah I finaly looked at the one I have and it is sorta different as the crossmember goes cause some of the pipes run through the crossmember

yeah defanately I am going to do the maint on my "new" car cause it costs less unless it's a major thing and it's under warranty (still waiting for the replacement CD player.......) and as for major mods from what I understand if you get the stuff that they sell at the dealership and have them install it then it's still under warranty

oh yeah I forgot to mention that the ignition switch problem you have I also have lol and if your not careful the key falls out while halfway through the course on rallyX LOL but I have a replacement I just need to get the rest of the stuff so I can install it and a few other things at the same time

yeah I know where that is My wife had an aunt that lived near there and Andrew I don't think you would want to go up there it's like 3 almost 4 hours from here in fact

yeah that is what my owners manual says from my OBS

Turbone LOL heck in Georgia it rains when it's 100 deg outside so I don't think he would melt heck he might become a icecube or or or a shrivled up prune cause of it being so dry here for humidity wise lol

Well DUHHH and the oil tank resides up there and Corky you hafta remember I AM a old vw guy and have also been around a few 911's and such considering I had a teacher that had quite a few over the years (his wife works for the state)

But if you want to go even darker try www.rallitek.com for the turbo stuff

yeah it's like 5 to 1 for price if the 911's motor is toast and it's sorta easy cause the oil cooler and tank reside in the trunk as it is so it is simple to run hard line for the cooling system up to a custom rad and then just make a scoop over the rear decklid for forcing air into the IC or you could also put a rad back there and do the scoop thing to scoop air into it and keep it cool and then have a FMIC put in front of the rad to cool the intake air

dang net it made me think I didn't post it and went and did something I didn't want it to do grrrr sorry did a double post

is it more of a clacking or ticking noise than a knocking noise? if it is then yeah it is just the Hydraulic lifters making the noise no biggie somewhat easy to fix just hafta take the time to do some resealing and cleaning the lifters themselves

Hey Ed goto the book store or where ever you can find Grassroots motorsports magazine and they have a how to for a wide-band system in the latest issue just picked it up today and saw that

hmmmmm I might hafta save the front rotors off my 83 when I change to vented rotors.........

the splines on the rear are different than the splines for the rear so the front hubs wouldn't fit onto the rear cause of that...... well unless you have a gen 1 with u-joints like mine

I might know but I am not gonna say cause I don't want this thread locked......

well I am looking into going the EJ-22 route with my 76 and tomorrow I am gonna measure the engine bay of the 83 cause I was given an interesting measurement for a gen 2 wagon of another board members that has a EJ-22 in his and see if it's the same exact measurement as the EA-81 in the same vehicle if it is then yeah you will be able to make it fit with no troubles just be fairly close to the framerails right next to the heads

yep Congrats I shoulda said something to Rick this mornin when I was asking him a question over AIM about the EA-65 I have

hey Craig go down to Carr and look at the blue one they have down there the market value adjustment alone is 7500 freakin dollars!! which makes it like 44 grand just about