Vanislru

It would cause a bit of it for sure but how much is hard to say, 50% is a big diff.

Just reread 4th time, there is little plugs, dowels? I don't know what they're called but no the head won't drop down so stop hammering! I think you have to tear the intake off, sorry.

The stock header radiates alot of heat probly comparable to the TWE, try installing a 6" by 12" very thin sheet of metal, punch two holes in it on the one long edge that line up with the two bolt holes on the bottom of your timing belt cover in behind your header in front of your oil pan. Pull the bolts out insert tin and voila Heat shield and if you have a leaky oil pan or gaskets then oil wont drip onto your crossover. Cost maybe $5. Then if you do bey wrap you only need a small amount to do by the head.

You could put rubber strut spring spacers in the front and rear, give you about 1" lift but more important it would make things way stiffer, I ran the piss out of an 86 with these on and had no cv issues at all. The difference in handling was enough that some my friends asked if I had the front end done. About $25 for all 4.

I love my ru, in 4 lo turbo lag's not much of an issue, but having the power there from idle would be cool. I've got a remote mount oversize oil filter w/ oil cooler, and an LSD [installing tomorrow i hope] too.

SS stays hot once up to temp, esp. with the thicker wall tubing the TWE pipes has. I was going to heat wrap but have decided againts it, If you're driving through heavy rain and mist then the pipes would cool a bit and some charge would be lost but for 98% of your driving i thing bare pipes are fine. I've been cruising through very deep snow and could not notice any difference even when the whole front end [and headers] were jammed up with snow. If anything as said above wrap the collector area just below the turbo to about 18" down, and in front of the oil pan[ I didn't do in front of the pan cause I have a remote oil filter and oil cooler].

I personally would like something like Ratty2austin's yellow beast, shorter wheel base, light, and serious go fast power right off the line, a front LSD and maybe 2" more lift would be ultimate IMO.

Sounds OK, will run pretty rich off boost though. Is that 700cc @ 45 psi?

Nice looking ru, good decision to keep it you made. Power? WJM's ea82t puts out some good #'s Swap a turbo in there, my ru moves 29's on steels pretty good, I'm probly closing in on 160hp. It's alot of work to swap it over but if you really want to it won't cost much, other than time.

I don't really need a larger wastegate cause my TWE dp has a bellmouth, I used to run a dp I made that was 2" but was not bellmouth and In 4 and 5 I had horrible boost creep, now rock solid at 14psi. The td04 is designed for more exhaust flow/pressure and intake flow/pressure, I want to boost above 14psi and not be at the max of what my compressor will do without heating issues. If it works I'll have a better ratio, and more torque with faster spools to my desired boost level of 14 to 18psi [depending on time of year]. The exhaust side of my turbo is fine, the intake blows[ stupid pun i know]. If it doesn't work then I'll go with the whole td04 and start looking for a bb turbo.

I'm not sur e if it's what you are talking about but I have 4" strut tower extensions and shock extensions on my 86 turbo wagon 3" lift otherwise. I think patrick factored in the effect on camber too cause it's perfect:).

I'm still waiting for my td04 it's in shipping limbo, I'm not planning on running the whole thing, I just want the compressor turbine. From what it looks like the shaft diameter on my stock turbo is the same as the td04 so... a little enlargement of the stock compressor housing then bolt on the turbine, better high boost performance and close to stock or better lag. This could all be blown to hell when I get the thing and it doesn't work out and if that's the case then I'll mount the td04 up with what I have and start looking for a good DP.

TPS is the throttle position sensor and it's on the throttl body , little black box 2 ph illips screws adjust as per manual. Vac advance unit on the disty goes but some times the actuator in the disty itself gets gummed up, a little cleaning[ i used brake cleaner] and oil works wonders. Can you here any leaks hissing at all when the motors running?

If it's a turbo then I'd check, vac lines, the movement of the vac advance in the disty and clean if nec., and the fuel pump. From reading similar threads and my own experiance it'll be a tired fuel pump. They do that when they are on there last legs this prob has been discussed in countless threads. Oh yeah make sure your TPS is set properly too.

BC Hydro our main power company is selling their 2 Mercedes Unimogs, don't know when or what auction yet but I checked the one out that was in town for a while. What a sweet setup HUGE ground clearance! I'm going to look for pics.

Morgan, how's it wheel without the PS? I'd think it'd be a rougher go of it, my PS is a leaky POS but I'm concerned about the big tires jerkin around the steering wheel and takin my thumbs off or somethin.

depends on whether it's 1 ring or all of them

I had a similar prob, and after all was said and done I pulled the motor and found the rings were all gummed up and distorted on the one cylinder. Later on I talked with this guy Paul who's a retired RCAF mechanic who's had a longterm love affair with subies and he said that most of the time you can pull a plug and put some hard core fuel system solvent in there let it sit for a day and then crank it by hand a few times with the coil disconnected and the plug back in. Pull the plug back out crank the motor with the starter but with the coil still disconnected, might want to place a rag over the hole cause it'll launch the fluid, then replace plug and crank a few more times. Hook the coil back up and you're good to go. Make sure you fill the whole cylinder with solvent. LMK if unclear on procedure and be careful when clearing the solvent out.

Isn't the standard backspacing 4.75" on toys, oh wait you mean "standard" backspacing for the Summitracing rims. Those are nice rims, your website is top notch, before I decided to go with the Ozified kit I checked it out and thought about building my own lift but with the babe on the way I figured there'd be no time to build a lift. Very well set up site with TONS of good info, truly an inspiration!

Those vids have got me through many, many late nights sitting up with the babe I think I've watched #5 four or five times now, that and my friends stopped thinking I was nuts wanting to lift a ru after watching you guys having a ball out on the trails. They are the only vids I own, I love'em. Thanks Zapar. Patrick the kit went in flawlessly, I owe you one for the shipping I won't forget, thank you. I've tried to resize pics again but i think I now need to do it in a different program than the fuji one that came with the camera cause I'm getting no where, aarrgghh why's this so hard. Time to walk away from the computer for a while.

Since the clamp is needed for the inlet side of the turbo I can't see why a regular SS hose clamp can't be used, it's not under pressure. SS ones are stronger so that's what I use on mine, and for the pipe dia. difference I use adapters from an Auto store, they have any ID-OD adapter you could imagine for exhaust work once you have the combo you want drop $10 at a muffler shop to weld'em [make sure they understand there can't be any leaks] up and you're good to go. Looks like you might have to either move your silicone hose back or chop it cause things'll be tight once an adapter is in. I can't wait till you're done, that bb turbo is the ticket with these larger flow/diameter pipes, I think you'll have some huge gains there. Good luck with the vac/sensor hoses my knowledge is limited to 86's so I can't offer up any oppinion's there.

Thanks, they're mostly for snow/ice/rocks, not really all that great in the mud not bad either tho but they cruise on the street alot better than TSL's.

Ditto, any chance of a full side shot to show off those rims :slobber:.

A friend and I lifted an ea82 out but I don't think I'd do it again, cherrypickers are about 5-10 bucks a day to rent and well worth it IMO.

I have good power off the line in my turbo beast, what size tire are you thinking, if your t motor's in good shape and you;re familar with it why swap? As far as the t heads onto a NA block goes you;ll have to swap over the NA cams into the turbo heads, tturbo cams have a different profile overlap wise to prevent the air being forced into a cylinder that;s not on an intake stroke.