Fairtax4me

Not common for these pumps to drip. Usually the gasket goes bad when someone has replaced the pump and used a paper gasket. That pump does look old though. Either way, Timing belt time.

Not necessarily, but he should definitely check it. Trans fluid is under much higher pressure, so can be forced out of a small pinhole or split in the cooler. When the engine turns off and the trans stops pumping the pressure in the radiator pushes the opposite way and can close the hole which prevents coolant pushing through.

I can be hard to hear on newer cars, but next time it does this roll the window down or open the door and listen for a single Click sound from under the hood when you turn the key to start. If you dont hear it click, look at the indicator LED for the alarm system. If the alarm indicator is blinking quickly, that means the alarm has disabled the starter interlock relay, and will not allow the starter to be engaged. If this is the case, remove the key from the ignition, Lock the doors with the key fob, then unlock them and try starting it again.

White connector inside the wheel is horn/cruise switch. Power wire comes from the horn relay and should be green with a red stripe. That splits, one side provides power to the cruise switch. (If installed) Other split goes to the horn buttons or contacts on the wheel.

What do you mean when you say it won't start? When you turn the key does the engine crank? Or do you just get a click? or no noise at all?

Need to find out exactly WHY it failed emissions. Some states require a tail pipe sniffer test regardless of IM monitor testing. There are several reasons an engine may not pass a sniffer test, and not all of them are related to sensors, nor will they always set a code.

Assuming it has the OE style plug, If it plugged in its the correct sensor. All the o2 sensors have different key notches on the plugs. So the wrong senaor can't be installed and plugged in in an incorrect place.

I've never seen reverse thread bolts for brakes on these cars. That would be news to me. Haven't done brakes on any Subaru as new as a 2011 though.

Checked with a friend mechanic and he asked his boss who's a mechanic of 35 years and they agreed, most likely stop leak. So while it is oily, it's probably not engine oil. Flushed it out about 4-5 times with water. Filled it up with fresh green AF and drove it about 70 miles on two test drives and haven't seen any goopy stuff come back yet. A little residue maybe, but not enough that I'm concerned about it. Told her to keep an eye on the oil and coolant levels and watch out for mayo on the dipstick, but I'm thinking its going to be fine. Main reason for this "Oh snap!" moment, she's bell-hent on taking this car on a 3,000 mile road trip starting tomorrow. I've seen a lot of nasty coolant in my years of wrenching and this stuff is a new first for me. Gonna try to send some off and have it analyzed, but coolant analysis isn't exactly cheap .

Year? Model? Sometimes chunks of foam are glued to the plastic splash shields to keep them from vibrating in the wind and making noise when you're driving. They fall off occasionally. That won't likely cause the other noise you have. Sounds like the heat sheild on the exhaust pipe may be loose. They get loose on their own anyway, but especially if you've had the exhaust down off of the car they get knocked around and rattle pretty bad.

You can use the turbo gaskets for the Frankenmotor but you need to punch some holes in them to line up the coolant ports in the 2.2 heads. Also pretty sure the 2.2 head bolts are longer, so you need to use those with the 2.2 heads . Cometic makes a custom gasket for that specific build. You can call them to order it. Other gaskets and seals tend to be fine when purchased aftermarket. Ultra grey or mega black are my two favorite for the separator plate. I generally use whichever I have. I've also used anaerobic sealant there before and had no problems. The Best timing kit will have NSK or Koyo idlers and an NSK tensioner. Use a Mitsuboshi or Subaru belt. Aisin water pump. If you use the two piece old style tensioner get an Aisin tensioner piston. Some people use Paraut water pumps and say they are high quality. I like the Aisin pumps since they come with the OE style gasket. You should use the Turbo head gaskets on the NA 2.5. They have a reputation for lasting longer. Haven't heard of the oil pumps having issues on the newer engines, but it won't hurt to pull it and check and put a new o-ring behind it. Head bolt sequence should be out in internet-land. All the ones I've seen recently are correct to my knowledge.

If the clutch gap is too wide you should be able to tap the face of the clutch with a screwdriver handle and it should engage. You could also check voltage going to the clutch to see if the clutch coil is being energized. If the coil is not being energized then you have a problem elsewhere such as a relay or faulty sensor. If the coil is being energized but the clutch doesn't engage then its likely the gap is too wide.

Did you buy new struts or used ones? New struts will ride stiffer because they're new.

The plastic side tanks will split when they get old and they become sort of malliable. If the leak is from the drain plug itself, the plug can be replaced and that may fix it. Stop leak might buy you some time, but its best to just replace the radiator. They don't cost that much.

No there is no glitter in this. I've seen that stuff plenty of times and this isn't it. I thought maybe the little brown tabs, but those aren't oily. I'm kind of thinking this might be some of that stuff that has the black little globs that's supposed to dissolve when it gets hot. That's one kind that I haven't used, so I'm not sure if that's supposed to be oily or not. This stuff definitely has some kind of oil in it, just not sure at this point if its engine oil or something else. I'm really hoping that it's just either some stop leak, or that someone poured oil in the radiator by mistake.

Drained this from a co-workers car today. I took a sample out with a suction bulb before I drained the whole radiator. What came out of the bulb was not so cloudy but had several droplets of what looked and felt like oil floating on top. But the stuff in the drain pan looks entirely different. There is still some floating droplets, but mostly there appears to be a cloudy sediment that settles somewhat on the bottom. My fear was a bad head gasket leaking oil into the coolant, Or a split transmission cooler in the radiator, until I drained it and saw all this other crud in there. There is no copper or metallic flake in this mixture. The coolant appears to have been either yellow or orange colored to begin with.

Tires may need to be balanced. Suspension parts will not cause the car to shake, unless were talking the death wobble that some trucks and vans do when steering arms of ball joints get loose. Hit a bump and it shakes the hell out of the vehicle until you almost come to a stop. Rotating parts are what will cause a wobble at higher speeds. Tires, axles, driveshaft. If the steering wheel is wobbling back and forth, that's almost always the tires, though occasionally warped brake rotors can be so bad they will cause a wobble at speed. The wobble will get significantly worse when you hit the brakes if this is the cause.

When you get all the bolts out of the flex plate you should use a screwdriver or prybar to push the converter back away from the flex plate. That helps prevent it from getting hung up and pulling out of the trans. These converters are kind of tricky to line up. There is also a circlip in there that can become dislodged if the TC pulls out and can prevent it from pushing back in all the way. Be sure to replace the front seal on the trans. Once those are exposed to dirt they don't last long.

Just bought a gates kit for my 96 a few weeks ago. Good deal on amazon. Idlers were NSK and Koyo. Those are OE parts. Tensioner was GMB. Not the greatest quality but they work well enough for a 60k interval. Belt was a Gates belt, problem with the belt. It was too short. Too much tension on the belt when the tensioner was slid over. It actually kept the tensioner position from pushing out at all. I've had this happen before years ago, but it was with a much cheaper PCI kit. Didn't expect this from a Gates belt. I always use gates V and serpentine belts if I can. Dayco I dont expect great quality from. I've used their timing kits before and haven't ever really been impressed. Serpentine belts don't last long, and their small ribbed belts tend to stretch quite a lot before they stop squealing.

The oil pumps on the old 2.2s do have issues with the screws on the backing plate coming loose. It creates more of an use when the oil is warm though. It is something you should definitely check if you are due for a timing belt change. Likely the lifter just has some varnish in it. Change the oil with 10-40, Put a half quart or so of marvels mystery oil in with it. Run it about 100 miles and change it.

The only reason to buy a bearing and hub kit is of the old hub is deformed or scored due to failure of the bearing when the inner race of the bearing actually spins on the hub. The only time this becomes a problem is when the bearings is severely worn to the point that it has a large amount of play, or if the axle nut was not properly torqued during an axle replacement. The new hub still has to be pressed into the bearing AFTER the bearing is pressed into the knuckle.

Not on 95. Expansion valve is inside the core box and you have to pull the dash out to get to it. Good chance the expansion valve isn't your problem. The older style almost never fail. Have you put guages on the system to see what's going on? Most of the time the charge is just low.

The gear that drives the cable inside the trans may have stripped. They're usually plastic and don't last forever. Unfortunately, they're also a PITA to change on a Subaru.

The connectors are bright green. The wires are black and blue or something like that. But you'll see the green connectors easy enough if you poke your head under the dash. Usually to the right of the steering column with a handful of other connectors that have nothing plugged into them. Plug them in, turn the key to ON, and the solenoids and fans start clicking on and off. The canister purge solenoid is under the #3 intake runner and kinda tricky to get to, but the vacuum hose to it should be easy enough to get to where it goes on the manifold. Pull it off there and try to blow through the solenoid.

Timing belt shouldn't be slack. Maybe can move it up and down 1/8" in the center of the longest section between pulleys but that's it. Pull all the covers and check the timing marks on the sprockets. Could be due to a failing cam sensor like Tom said, but double check the timing belt first since that's free.