Fairtax4me

Sounds like its either getting un-metered air (air leak into intake tube between the MAF and throttle body), or MAF wiring could be damaged, Or fuel pressure is dropping off after it starts. Check the tube for any cracks, especially between the ripples where it flexes. If it has the resonator tube that sticks off the side, check where that connects to the main tube. Have seen them break there.

There's really no need to ever change the internal filter. Its just a screen. If it needs to be cleaned the trans is already shot. The spin on is the important one. Change that, leave the internal filter. Get permatex transmission pan RTV, don't use a gasket, especially not the ones they give in the filter kits. Clean the pan and trans mating surfaces vey well with a stainless steel wire brush and brake cleaner. See if you can find the VIN stamp on the trans. Should be a small oval pad about 2" long on the side of the main case. Wanna say its on the right side but don't remember for sure. What's the VIN for the car?

Tensioner is damaged. Only reason it will jump time. Tensioner has to be compressed very slowly or the seals inside will blow out then it doesn't keep proper pressure on the tension idler. Key is a half moon type. If the pulley wobbles replace it and the timing sprocket. It may not be perfect, but it will be better than having a worn/rounded out pulley on it. The face of the timing sprocket can get mushroomed when the pulley wobbles around. Needs to be perfectly flat so the pulley sits flat against it.

Doesn't take long to check the timing just to rule it out. Count the reluctor teeth on the crank sprocket and make sure they're all there. Wire issue is possible. Could also be a bad igniter circuit in the ECU. ECU signals the igniter, ingiter tells the coil when to fire.

Sensor grounds to the block. Make sure the block surface is extra clean underneath the sensor.

Can you take a video or sound clip of the noise and post a link here? The front suspension on these cars is pretty simple. Usually if something is making noise its easy to find the source. Kinda surprised two shops couldn't figure out what it is.

That one doesn't look all that rusty. Spray it with some PB and let it sit for a few days.

How old are the spark plugs and wires?

Pin 85 on B84 is ignition power. Yellow wire. Same wire supplies 12v to the yellow wire on the ignition coil. Should be 12v with key on.

Sorry, industry term for the OBD connector is DLC. Pin 1 in the OBD connector. B40. Red wire. Should show 12v all the time. Same wire feeds the Main relay, and fuel pump relay, and supplies power to the ECU on pin 39. Forgot that Subaru calls the yellow SSM connector the DLC.

How old is the timing belt?

Are you getting 12V to the DLC with key off? If you plug a code reader into the DLC does it turn on? That should be powered all the time. The same power that is supplied to the DLC also goes to the ECU, and is the constant power for the ECU IIRC.

Good to hear! Hope the foz treats you well!

I think the issue is that the new cars really aren't that different. Its still Legacy, Outback, Impreza, Forester. The generational split of GL/DL/Loyale etc., to Legacy/Impreza/etc., came about with the change from EA to EJ. Entirely different vehicles. Aside from some new gadgets and gizmos and some skinnier body panels, the current generation of Subarus is mostly the same as what they were back in 2000. The BRZ has its own sub-forum, but that model may not even be around much longer.

Knock sensor. If it's cracked replace it.

No, head gasket alone will not cause a no-start. Overheating after 10 minutes is due to a low coolant level, or a stuck thermostat. Why is the coolant level low is a question. External leaks can be slow and un-noticable. Head gaskets possible, but unlikely on a turbo engine. Repeated overheating can compromise the head gaskets and cause them to fail, but they're not often the original cause. Taking the engine apart is not how you diagnose a bad head gasket. "Pretty sure" isn't a diagnosis. Its a guess. A leakdown test will tell if the head gaskets are bad. Exhaust gas tests don't work on these. Sounds to me like theyre trying to rip you off. Second opinion time.

It's common for turbo engines to get oil in the intake tubing through the breather/PCV system. Turbo engines create more blow-by pressure in the crankcase, which pushes oil vapor out through the breather hoses and into the intake tubing. Its a good idea to change the PCV valve. And clean out the tubing as well as you can with brake cleaner. Some people install "catch cans" on the breather hoses that filter the oil vapor out before it gets to the intake. They tend to work fairly well, but then you have to remember to empty the container on a regular basis. Generally done when changing the engine oil.

It'll probably run, assuming the wire harness connectors aren't full of water. How long it runs depends on if it hydro-locked and any rods got bent. Air filter and filter box should be dried out. Intake tube dried out. If fuel got out, it was probably through the evap canister. Though if one of the seals on top of the tank is bad it could easily fill with water.

The car doesn't have enough miles on it to even need spark plugs yet. Did they happen to check the air filter? Check for vacuum leaks, loose hoses on the intake tube? Could be a sensor issue, possibly MAF sensor if the car has one. Oxygen sensor is also a possibility.

I had an old ford ranger with the horn button built into the turn signal stalk. Push the whole stalk in toward the column to sound the horn. Every year I had to show the state inspector how to do it, because they would try to fail it for the horn not working.

Like 1LT said, Crank pulley / harmonic balancer is the large one straight down from the alternator. It could just be wobbly. It could have a loose bolt, and the whole pulley is about to wobble off and damage the end of the crankshaft. It could have deteriorated rubber section and the outer portion of the pulley is about to spin off and chuck the belts.

Rear won't change unless you buy struts that are bent. Have swapped quite a few rear struts and even a couple sets of used struts and haven't ever had an issue after. Front can change significantly if you don't mark the relationship of the strut flange to the knuckle, and mark the angle of the upper strut to knuckle bolt. The upper bolt is the adjustment bolt for the camber, so it must be carefully marked before disassembly so that it can be put back in the same place. The alignment may be slightly different afterward, but it will be close enough that it shouldn't cause any issues. There is a notch in the strut flange, and notches on the head of the bolt. Mark the notch on the bolt where it lines up with the notch in the flange.

Still better than having your windsheild wiper motor catch fire (while it's raining) or your ignition switch suddenly burn out while the car is moving.

Agree with Heartless. If the plugs and wires are old, you should start there. Generally if the timing is off, you'll get misfires on both cylinders on the side that's off. It's not common, but I have seen that engine burn exhuast valves. That would be a worst case scenario. Compression check or a leakdown test would tell you for sure.

Maybe try another phone and see if the problem also occurs with that phone. If it does it could just be a firmware issue with your phone. If it still happens its probably a problem with the firmware in the head unit, which you'll likely have to wait until Subaru issues an update.