Fairtax4me

Probably the wheel bearing. Best way to tell is to pull the wheel off, separate the knuckle from the strut, pull the axle out of the hub and spin the hub by hand. Takes time, but if the bearing is bad you'll feel it in the hub.

Big hose clamp around the strut, small hose clamp through that to hold the brake hose.

How extensive is the damage to the fender? The wiring harness from the underhood fuse box runs behind the fender on that side and can be damaged in an accident. IIRC you can get to the wiring by removing the inner splash sheild from the wheel well.

Offset doesn't have anything to do with tire size. If the width is the same the tires will correctly fit the new wheels. Offset affects how far out the wheel sits from the car. The new wheel will stick out 6mm further than the stock wheels. It will not affect alignment, but if the alignment has not been checked recently you should still have an alignment done so that you get the most life out of your tires. Here's a site I use occasionally for comparing different tire sizes. The nice thing about this one is it also calculates for different wheel sizes and offsets. Then shows you how the new compares vs the old. Play around with different offsets so you can see the affect it has. http://www.willtheyfit.com

The first depends on the year, but generally a bad cam or crank sensor will always set a code. The second, yes, very possible with an intermittent failure of either sensor.

Anaerobic sealant. no gasket. http://beergarage.com/SubyOPump.aspx

Doin the same job on a 99 this weekend. Lower idler spit the bearings and she drove it home from the store while it tried to chew its way into the water pump. Luckily, only about a mile away. Hers is interference, so came pretty close to needing a second head gasket job.

Pretty sure compressor relay is the rear-most. Can also bypass the pressure switch on the drier with a paper clip stuck in the wire connector terminals. Can also jump 12v straight from the battery to the wire on the compressor. I don't normally jump relays because the ECU controls those and jumping the wrong pins could damage the ECU.

There is technically only 1 AC relay for the compressor. The 4 under the hood labeled as AC relays are for the compressor, main fan low speed, main fan high speed, and sub-fan high speed. There is another relay in the dash fuse box for the sub fan low speed. The combination is used to vary fan speeds based on compressor operation and cooling need depending on engine temperature. Most likely reason for the AC to not work is the charge is too low due to a leak.

Only fits one way.

If the battery is good you could drive a couple trips on just the battery. How many days did you drive to work without the cluster? The way the alternator is wired on the 95-99 Legacy cars the battery light circuit provides the current for the field exciter. Without that, the alternator will not charge. Theoretically, if you rev the engine high enough the field can self-excite, but I dont take you for the race car type. Might be a fun experiment for you. Pull the cluster out (or just unplug it) start the engine and check the charging voltage. Btw, got that sprocket yesterday Gary. Thanks again

Should be the exhaust camshaft actuator on the passenger side. Check the connector on the actuator for corrosion or dirt. Check the wires for any knicks or cuts. Looks like a can sticking off the engine near the front. Should have a two wire plug on it.

Did you replace all the vacuum hoses with Subaru hoses? The parts store cheapo hoses don't last long. Have had a few of those break again after even just a few months.

Check for a Vacuum leak. Broken/cracked hoses happen with age. Don't have to mess with them for them to split.

Change the thermostat with a Subaru OE or equivalent design like Gates 34012. Check inside the radiator for any buildup in the cores. Check the outside fins of the radiator for any dirt/leaves/other crud stuck in it. Fans running constantly can keep the thermostat partially closed all the time and cause coolant to run full flow through the heater core all the time. Coolant constantly runs through the heater core anyway, but the flow is almost stopped when the thermostat is fully open the way it should be. Possibly the fans were not turning on at all before, so the PO wires them to run all the time. May be due to a bad temp sensor.

No crank signal = no start. No cam signal = no start.

If they're original subaru hoses they're good for almost the life of the car, assuming they don't get covered in oil. Squeeze them. If they feel nice and pliable they're fine. If they feel crinkly or make noise, or feel sticky/oily and the ends are swolen, plan on replacing them soon.

Maybe with a high end scanner or SSM. Does the converter code come back every time? Could be a wire issue. If the solenoid circuit is being grounded between the solenoid and TCU that would keep the solenoid energized.

If the torque converter is staying in lock-up, that could cause all of those codes to set. The lock-up solenoid may be failing. That will certainly cause your near stall wen coming to a stop, because the torque converter is locked and acting like a clutch in a manual trans. The converter staying locked could also cause the trans to stick in a higher gear as you slow down, so even though the TCU commands the trans to downshift, it can't because it's mechanically bound. Setting your incorrect ratio codes for 4,3,2. the crank sensor code could be set by the erratic stumbling that happened as the engine nearly stalled, then revved back up. The ECU may have seen that as a failed signal from the crank sensor and set the code. I would not expect a failing crank sensor to affect transmission shifting. The trans uses engine speed information, but doesn't get it directly from the crank sensor. It likely uses an input shaft speed sensor and the ignition control signal (tachometer) to determine engine speed.

Filter looks like it should be for 08 and up. Did you find the VIN on the trans?

The pistons are always rusty. No biggie as long as it went back in smooth. The slide pins need to be cleaned and greased with silicone brake grease. They like to seize and will cause the pads to drag.

Loose cable = low release Tight cable = high release

Re-torque is not necessary on these. If its leaking, it needs to come off and needs another new gasket. Once the gasket is crushed it cant be re-used. I've done several of these with the engine in the car and had no trouble with them. Assuming you followed the torque sequence properly, either there was oil/coolant residue on the block or head, or the head is warped.

Does it have axles in it still?

If the piston is bouncing its damaged and needs to be replaced. Should be rock steady.