Fairtax4me

What year and model did the harness come from? I remember there being a couple diodes on various years, but I don't remember exactly what they're for. Pretty sure you need them.

That looks safe. Check into reading the airbag codes. Its pretty simple, and the codes will tell you where to focus your efforts.

I've always used prybars, never had an issue. It's not going to hurt the axle cup. Not sure what metalurigic process goes into those but they're tough.

Outback rack has a different ratio and I think the spline input shaft is a hair longer. Otherwise any Legacy model 95-99 it'll bolt in.

That one should be M14x1.5 or 1.75. Try finding another bolt and cut 2 notches in the threads on the end with a dremel. That may clean out the threads well enough to get the bolt through all the way. Put some blue locktite on it and tighten it to about 100 ft lbs. Torque spec on those is crazy high, like 180.

Loose hose on the intake tube. The big one for the IAC usually gets overlooked because it looks like its in the right spot. The hoses from the valve covers that attach on the back/bottom of the tube need to be connected at both ends, and the one next to the PCV hose.

If it seems like you're getting power in all the right places then you need to check the grounds for the dash. I think there's a set bolted to the dash near the steering column. There are also grounds on each side of the center dash console at the base of the dash near the floor. Ground wires are brown, and hey do tend to ground several wires all in the same place so there should be 4-5 wires coming together at each ground point.

Is there wire in the wire harness that meets that pin? Is it 2.2 or 2.5? Haven't ever fixed one in that manner. The housing for the pins doesn't easily come off though, so you may have to go inside and solder a wire to it and run the wire out through a hole in the case.

Not all locksmiths can, but it's getting more common for locksmiths to reprogram keys on vehicles that require dealer/manufacturer specific security clearance. Maybe not for a 2014, but for an 06 I would think you can find one that can. Usually worth at least browsing through the phone directory and making a few calls.

Daytime running lights use a filament in the headlamp bulb. Typically the high beam filament, but at a reduced voltage. Not sure of which filament your year subaru uses. Fuses. Have they all been checked? You can check relays all you want, but fuses are where the power comes from. Another somewhat common issue with those years is a bad headlamp dimmer switch on the steering column.

If it has the 17 digit Vin on the block the 10th digit is the model year of the vehicle it originally came in. Or run the VIN on google and it will usually decode vins automatically. Without a vin, there are identifiers that can get you an approximate year range (usually within 2 years).

User membership levels are under the username on the left side of posts, when using the full net version of the site. On mobile version there is no mention of it. Need to renew mine. It was up in February. 0.o

2.2 is bullet proof. Put a timing kit on it, fix the oil leaks and itll run til 300k easy. 2.5s are prone to repeated head gasket failures and have weak rod bearings. The ticking is just a lifter. A half quart of marvels mystery oil will usually clear that up.

Speaking of reminders... where do I look to find out when my subscription should renew? Seems like mine is sometime about now...

I'm not up on the immobilizer keys on Subarus, but generally a lock-smith can reprogram them cheaper than a dealer. Most cars seem to have a way to program multiple keys, but sometimes you have to do some digging to find it.

It's probably from the steering pump. Only way for oil to get in the plug wells on that engine is to run in from the top. No seals to go bad. The steering pumps leak slow from the reservoir o-ring and the fluid runs across the top of the block and right over to the #1 plug hole. Leaking oil pressure sender can do the same.

That could just be a default voltage that the ECU shows if the sensor fails. Or the scanner may be set to display AF sensor voltage, but the front sensor is actually a plain oxygen sensor.

Then you need to find an intake manifold and wire harness from a 95-98 EJ22 with EGR.

The whirring is the motor spinning. So electrically its working. Something in the regulator has bound and the motor has probably stripped the gear that drives the regulator. I've seen them bend in the center near the pivot point (if it has the scissor style regulator) and cause the window to jam in the tracks. A pry bar against the regulator may get it to move again. Do not pry against the edge of the glass or the glass may shatter. Worst case you'll need to unbolt or Unclip the glass from the regulator and lift the glass up, then you can wresttle the regulator around to get it to move upward into the raised position. Regulator replacement on these is a royal PITA. Be sure to read up on that service manual on the adjustments you need to make after installing the new regulator.

Outer joint has only one circlip. You have to knock the joint off of the shaft with a hammer. Trust me, you have to really wail on it. Baseball swing kinda hit. You won't break it. Use a big pair of pliers to hold the block of wood so you don't hit your hand, stand back and swing for the fence.

I put the shaft in a vice tight between a couple blocks of wood, joint end pointed down and into a trash can with an empty box or something to catch it. Then use another block of wood to pound the joint off the axle with a 3lb sledge. It takes a couple hard solid hits. A brass drift is best if you have one. I've had 2x4s split. Oak works pretty well too If you have an old piece of floorboard laying around.

Yeah I suppose it could be stuck in open loop if the second sensor just isn't getting hot enough to create a voltage signal. Pretty sure other people have not had any problems cutting out the second sensor. I would still try it without the first fuel filter. Those little lawnmower filters don't have high flow rates. Worth a shot and doesn't cost anything to find out.

Did you swap the engine or was it already that way? There's a work-around for the CEL but you need the intake manifold with the EGR valve.

No compression on one cylinder would create a dead misfire and make it shake like crazy at idle and feel very underpowered when driving. You can unplug fuel injectors one at a time and see if the idle changes. Buy or rent a compression guage set and do a compression check yourself. Not uncommon for that engine to burn exhaust valves, but If nothing else I would take it to another shop and get a second opinion.

If you're replacing fuses all the time your fuse size is too small for the amp. Rule of thumb, figure 10 amps for every 100 watts, Then add another 10. 100 peak watt amp, you want a 20 amp fuse. 500 peak watt amp, 60 amp fuse. You want your car to burn that's up to you.