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Ha, yea. I didn't think about getting it back on. I actually made a crank holder tool for that part. Even so, I'll still use the starter to break it free because it's easier.

I use the starter method. Put a socket with a long breaker bar, or breaker bar with cheater bar over it. Put it on the crank bolt, and the other end on the ground on the driver's side. Make sure everything is tight and secure. Make sure the engine isn't going to start, disconnect the coil, or engine harness, or whatever. Then turn it over.... Should crack the bolt free! I'm bracing myself for all the people telling me this is a bad idea. It's worked fine for me.

So many people lately having issues removing the compressor. ?? Anyway, you should also replace the gaskets on the lines that go into the compressor. Since the system is discharged, it would also be a good time to replace the schrader valves, I've had them leak in both my Legacys. If you don't know how to charge an AC system, or have the proper gauges, you should really take it to a shop. It can be dangerous if done wrong. At least read up on how to do it.

In the car is very difficult on a DOHC.

I made a tripod thing of sorts out of some old 4x4s to pull an engine in my friend's driveway once.

What's an engine lift?? You don't need a stand, just set the engine in an old tire and do one side at a time. Optimal? maybe not, get the job done without special stuff? INDEED!!!

To do a head gasket properly, you're looking at probably $200. Between the head gaskets, four cam seals, crank seal, valve cover gaskets, grommets. While you have the engine out it would be dumb not to replace the separator plate, should probably reseal the oil pump at the very least. Then just other dumb expenses like hose clamps, coolant, oil, random fasteners, etc. And that doesn't even include timing belt stuff.

On the topic of foresters. Pull the oil cooler and pipes while you're at it!

Nice! That's awesome. I can't wait till I get my tranny, I have most of the other parts!

I got a really nice looking used one at a JY in PA. I think it was $40. The person I got it for hasn't had any issues with it. It had no corrosion, cracks on the tanks, or anything. Like any JY part (whether you pull it, or a guy takes it off a shelf), it's up to you to inspect and make sure it's a good part.

Please say what car, model, and year. Otherwise this is impossible to diagnose.

Did you use subaru plugs and wires? And also replace the cap and rotor? Check your timing with a timing light. Could very well be causing your problem, it's a really easy thing to check!

Auto driveshafts are shorter. Impreza and legacy driveshafts are different. So you have get a 5speed driveshaft out of a legacy if you're swapping a legacy.

Ok, sometimes the joint can break internally. But did you make sure the hub splines aren't stripped? It can happen pretty easy if the axle nut isn't torqued down well.

Are you sure it's the transmission? It could be a broken axle or stripped out splines in a hub.

I need a new right rear strut. When the subframe cracked I didn't realize it bent the strut a bit. It leaked all its oil out, and now it's completely bouncy. A little scare to drive over really bumpy roads fast...

Which evap code? 441?

That's awesome. So if it's using a subaru transmission, it must have a reverse cut ring an pinion, right? Shift linkage would be fun to set up for that too.

That's a swap I dream about.

There's a thread on, I think rs25 that details the wiring. Really simple. I can post pics and a guide on here when I do it. You'll be able to run with the auto ECU till you find a manual, I'd start with it. That way if it doesn't start or something you at least know the ECU is good.

You can use the auto ECU, although, the tuning is a little different. It doesn't like to idle down always, this can make it a real annoyance driving in traffic. Or trying to get revs to match right when shifting. It keeps the IACV open more often (I think...) than the manual ECU. I just know the tuning is different. I put an auto ECU in my manual car once just to test it out. But yes, the auto ECU will work fine. I've swapped them either way. I believe you have to connect the two big wires coming out of the shifter assy, can't remember exactly though. It's for the NSS so it will start. Just put a meter on them and see if the connection closes in N and P, and no other gear. Then you have the right wires. And just hook up the two wires for reverse from the transmission, not really a big deal. If you want to get fancy, hook up a clutch switch.

You aren't really supposed to play with the trottle body linkage stop screw. Or tighten the cable, the IACV will correct up to about 4% opening anyway and make it idle right... Your idle is probably fine, your gauge just reads low. Lot of them do this. If it's running rough at idle, the normal suspects. Plugs, wires, PCV, filters... blahhh. General tune up stuff.

So testament to the auto... Today my local subaru club went on quite a long drive. I took the legacy (half expecting either the motor or tranny to blow up...). I drove the thing WOT all day long, always shifting at redline, hitting 100+....... etc, etc, etc. Abuse, etc. Basically I beat the piss out of the car, and if I break the old tired driveline, I'll put better parts in. The auto not only did amazing all day, it actually shifts better now after some good abuse. Guess I cleared something out.... I'm still 5speeding it... but the auto is a GOOD transmission. The gear ratios suck though...

Maybe $200 ej22s are good... my $100 one is junk. Junk yards usually let 4cyl engines go pretty cheap, that's probably where I'm shopping for my next one.

Have you ever driven a subaru automatic? They do surprisingly well. The Legacy is my first automatic car ever, and I was sort of hard on how much subaru autos suck. But after driving this one, I kinda like it.