Nug

On building your own manifolds, I guess what I would do is make templates to fit the bottom of the carb and the mounting pad on the head, carve them from 3/8 aluminum, and then find some thick walled aluminum tubing to make the runners. Thick walled so you can take a die grinder and sort of hand shape the ports. Or something. It makes sense in MY head...

and I want to try something, but I'm not motivated enough to do anything to it right now. Basically, I'd like to make it more VW looking. That is, I'd like to remove the intake and injectors and everything associated with fuel injection, and hang a set of Weber 48 IDA's onto the engine. Yes, the manifolds don't exist (yet). Yes, those carbs are incredibly expensive, and tuning dual carbs is a neverending chore. Yes, driveability will probably suffer to some degree. But I bet it'll make a ton of power and look good as hell. Besides, the displacement of the 2.2 and the rpm capability makes the 48 IDA not too unrealistic a choice. Google it if you have no clue what I am talking about.

Big problem: The Corvair engine turns backward.

I bought another soob. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65426

It'll be like owning an air-cooled VW all over again!

Pics in a day or so. I'm laaaaazy.

I was starting to feel real bad for a minute there. I'm glad it was something simple.

Hi all, thought I'd stop in. Was looking on Craigslist, and there was an ad: 1982 Subaru wagon, runs good, $100. My friend Robby and I rode down to the guy's house with a tow dolly. EA81, tick of death, started with a jumpstart after sitting for a year, needs a carb rebuild. 4spd dual range. 3rd eye. Exhaust pipe sitting on moustache bar. Needs muffler. Needs a clutch. Has A/C. Needs blower motor resistors. Rocker panels rusted, but no rust on any suspension parts. Sweet roof rack. Screwdriver for ignition key. I'n other words, it's perfect. BABE rally, here we come.

I'm agreeing with GD on the pilot/input bearing failure theory.

I've recently put Redline MT-90 in my Tacoma to help a cold-shifting problem. It works great.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18805&highlight=castrol All your questions are answered above.

I don't think they weigh that much. I can pick it up myself. Also, many older 2.5's have headgasket problems. There are several years of engines you will want to avoid. I bought my 2.2 for $125. It has ~150K on it, and I'm constantly hitting the rev limiter and dumping the clutch, and that engine loves being abused. I like the 2.2.

I put an MSD 6AL on my Jaguar, and the idle quality improved greatly, along with reduced hesitation. If your ignition system is already in good shape, then you may not notice much of a difference. Scary 3" sparks FTW.

The Kumho 795's are awesome. I put them on my wife's MINI to replace the awful dunlops it came with, and the handling in bad weather was greatly improved. And they are cheap, too. Get them.

What an awful picture. You get the idea.

Bump. The Brat is great. It's Robby's daily driver, and aside from the odd growling wheel bearing and electrical problem, it's been fine. The drunk guy we got it from had dropped his insurance on it without returning his plates. This is a big no-no in VA, and the rules had recently been changed, so when the plates were turned in, it started a chain reaction. The brat is now sporting the wheels and tires off of my RX, the original steelies were almost all bent to some degree. Probably part of the wheel bearing wear. It's also got some jump seats installed, $100 from a local junkyard. We also spotted pug 15" alloys in a local junkyard, way in the back. Those are just a matter of time.

As much as you probably don't want to hear it, this is the truth.

Hella Supertones. Cheaper than airhorns, will blast opponents off of the road.

Yep. You need to fabricate a ton of stuff. I recommend getting a mig welder and getting acquainted with it intimately.

Any water down in the spark plug holes? That got me a couple times.

I have also heard the same thing about the lifters. However, the removal of metallic engine additives is still an issue. Here is a chart from Hotrod.com that shows some numbers.

I have an EJ22 in my Bug. You will probably want to get a mig welder for this one. The car has run a 15.1 at 92mph, that is with a stock ej22 and stock vw tranny. There are traction issues, even with a 8"wide rear tire. The car is a blast to drive, and no one suspects anything because it's quiet and there are no external hints as to what's going on. There used to be a video on here somewhere of me trying to do a burnout but instead just pushing the locked front tires.

There has been a rash of camshafts going flat in the V8 aftermarket. Part of the blame has been put on modern motor oils. In an attempt to minimize catalytic converter contamination, engine oil manufacturers have been removing metallic oil additives from the oil. Unfortunately, these additives have good antiwear properties. So what should one use without resorting to expensive synthetic motor oils? Both Hot Rod and Car Craft magazines have started using Shell Rotella T 15w-40 diesel motor oil in quite a few of their engine buildups, especially when using flat tappet cams. It has a high level of metallic oil additives, many times higher than what's common in a modern SM oil. It's pretty cheap, too. A gallon is about $8 at Advance auto parts. I use it at work in many different types of vehicles, and nothing has had any sort of lubrication failure.

I've got a EJ22 in my '74 beetle. I recommend it highly.

I filled up my ej22 powered beetle and drove it for a few hundred miles one day last week. It was really hot, and after running for about an hour, it didn't want to idle. It actually stalled in traffic and took 30 seconds to restart, and it ran like hell. I stopped for lunch, and it was fine afterward. Driving home, I was on the interstate for 40 minutes, going around 70 mph. After getting off of my exit and cruising into town, the car lost all power and would barely run. After a few seconds, it died completely. I coasted through a green light and into a gas station. I thought I might have run out of fuel. The gas gauge isn't accurate, and I've never tried to calculate the mileage. The fuel pump sounded like it was running with no resistance, aka pushing no fuel. I opened the fuel cap and fwoosh!, it was under a big vacuum. The tank visually expanded. I hit the key and it fired right up. I need to install a vented gas cap or something. That is all.