WoodsWagon

The pitch stopper bracket from the legacy tranny (5spd) bolts right up to the loyale tranny. Oh, and the cylinder that your poured a quart down... Sure the exhaust valve wasn't open?

Ahh OK. I've given him a day to find the title, so I'll check in tomorrow. My scale of rust repair is much different than most other peoples. I run subaru's in new hampshire, where you can actually watch them rust. The repairs will be difficult but doable, rear quarters the worst, as both the quarter and the wheel well are rusted through. Nothing some sheet metal and rivets can't fix though.

WTF? What do the Bx Stand for? The driver's door handle is kinda sticky, but the side moldings look good. I'll keep that in mind if the project goes south. I'm hoping to get another 50k out of the car, think it's possible?

How many cans of do you need at one time?

Like what? the rear hatch aint worth removing.

Swap it back to a 2.2 It's easy.

It has the 3" higher roof and the longer rear hatch. I just label that a touring wagon because the EA82's that had the raised roofs were that. I didn't even bother to look at the badging on the back. I'm going to drive it the mile and a half home, throw it over my pit, and give it a good looking over underneath. I have a 1992 legacy L parts car, sans engine+wiring, so pretty much everything on the car can get swapped out. The rust is all the way through the 1/4 panel by the turn signal up front, and all the way through the bottom of the hatch, up about 1/2 is gone in the middle of the hatch. The rear 1/4's are eaten right behind the wheel, same spot as they all are. Fixable in all I think, but it won't be pretty. It is a nice deep blue with all body inc. handles matching. dark blue interior too. It all pivots on the title.

I can do an engine swap in a weekend with 1 other person. Skip seems to know his stuff, so he should be able to handle any job it might take to make good. $500 is an awesome price for a car like that. If it was a VW, I wouldn't touch it. But a subaru without collision damage and a clean title? TOTALLY WORTH IT.

I'm looking at one for $150. It has rust in all the usual places, plus the rear lip of the back hatch. ABS, airbags, cruise, Factory CD, 5spd, 2.2L NA. Runs great, 191k miles. The rust is a PITA, but fixable. The rear hatch latch is broken, so I'll have to wongleflute around with that. "Needs front end work", he said. I'll be taking it for a test drive soon, need to put air in the tires. A touring wagon would be nice, the high roof gives extra space for fitting big clay sculptures in. It also has the gold alloy lace style rims on it. Should I fall for it?

I predict this thread will turn into "USMB roasts streetracing legacy driver" As long as it stay's within the speed limit, I see no problem. It must have been fun to watch the kid in the rearview mirror. *edit* Wholly dam! Noah's fast. He musta pulled my by a good second on the response time. Followed my prediction though. Both post times = 6:47

The power of PVC pipe! Let's see pics of it being used.

Is the whole lock loose around the column, like you could spin it around the same way the steering wheel does, or just the electric switch itself. THe switch is held in with a small phillips screw, the lock is held on by two shear bolts. The shear bolts have heads that snap off intentionally when they're installed so that they are hard to take out. You can use a centerpunch or chisel to walk them out and put regular bolts in, or you can ignore it untill it falls off. I'd ignore it, but...

The linkage has probably jammed under the car right by the shift lever. Don't push too hard, it will break, been there, done that, stripped and junked that car. Squeeze under the car and hose the whole linkage cable stup down with penetrating oil, PB blaster/Kroil not wd40, it won't cut the mustard. Work the lever jently and see if it will free up.

So I could kill myself with a 9 volt battery if I stood in the ocean and put on wire in my mouth and one in the ocean? Grab the rotor and make sure it can't turn on it's shaft. I had the set screw fall out and it acted just like the car ran out of gas. Sputtered, then dead.

You could put the rear subframe and diff in in a weekend, bleed your breaks, and drive it. Wait to swap the tranny untill you have someone lined up to weld the carrier bearing mount in. Make sure your tank has the dent in it for the diff before starting. 2 weekends. One for the rear subframe, One for the tranny and driveshaft. Get good with a centerpunch, drill, and tap.

Why was this moved to retrofitting? IT's an 1992 Ej22 going into a 1992 subaru legacy which had the EJ22 in it to start with. It's not a retrofit, please return it to New Gen.

It's easiest to do with the heads off, but you could with the heads on. If you make an adapter so that you can put compressed air in throught the sparkplug hole, you can hold the valves up with the air, Take the valve cover off, take the rocker arm shaft off, and use either the proper tool or a pair of channel lock pliars to push the spring down far enough so that you can get the retainer tapers out. Then use a slip-joint pliar to pull the seal off of the valve guide. Use a deep socket to drive the new seal onto the guide, put the spring and retainers back on, a bit of grease on the retainers helps hold them in place, this part sucks, and reassemble everything. Plan an afternoon, and work on really clean pavement, I gaurantee that you will drop at least 1 of the retainers. The valve seals on these engines are positive type. They press fit onto the guide, and have a garter spring that keeps them tight against the stem, just like the oil seal on the crank.

If you pull the ball-joint taper out of the control arm, you can use a sawzall to cut the balljoint and the pinch bolt in half. Then you only have to drill through half the pinchbolt, saves time. If your only doing the axel, pulling the sway bar link and the lower control arm bolt where it meets the crossmember may be the easiest.

As for mud in the cab, if I have my windows open, the roof gets coated on the INSIDE, so without doors, I'd be done for.

Price breakdown: Parts car, delivered and removed: $50 Helicoil Thread insert kit:$30 About 14 hours of our time: $0 Gas money to get to parts store and back in V10 pickup: $10 Washing Pig manuer off of said pickup: $2.50 Pizza after car ran: $11 Total: $103.50 Not bad for a complete engine swap. The cheapest engine he could find localy was $450, installation extra. The lecacy is better than it was even before it lost a cylinder, because this engine doesn't burn oil. There's much worse ways to spend a weekend. The EA82 workes perfectly as a solid jackstand. The rotten stump on the other side wasn't so safe, but it held.

Do I really have to point out that your outback came with the space under the hood to fit a turbo? Bolt on parts. It may be a lot of bolts, but it is bolt on. Now you have to find a turbo legacy that's been T-boned so the front is fine.

The PCV valve closes when the manifold pressure goes positive. Running the extra hose from the intake and t ing it with the PCV valve makes no sence, I know it's stock, but all the V8's go from intake to right valve cover, left valve cover to PCV valve to intake. It should be a suck through system, not a suck by sytstem. Remember, the intake manifold still goes negative under decel on a turbo car. Otherwise, the brake booster would be pointless.

Lots of people run them, and most pull one of the halfshafts for street use. Some people don't pull the halfshaft,and just drive gentle so it doesn't snap. Expect some wheel skip on corners.

Making the lift, not the body, the weakest point makes sense. Oh whell, I would have been screwed no matter what with the bolt coming out. It didn't pull out of the threads, because a replacement bolt threaded right in and torqued down. I'm getting a mig welder lined up and a board member who is good with one will help me.

As a side note, 21ft lbs is for cast iron heads, 15 ft lbs for aloy heads. Just don't over or under tighten too much, it's a real pain putting a thread insert in. Make sure that the gasket comes out with each of the old plugs too, don't want to stack a pair by accident.