WoodsWagon

My cars become "ITs" when they don't run. Back off on the zoom when taking pictures of a whole car.

The front roof support broke it's tack welds on my dad's 95 legacy sometime in the last month. It's one of the cross bars that hold the roof up from the inside, the first one back from the windshield. I don't know exactly how it got loose, mabe we flexed the roof enough removing a kayak or something. It's a really annoying rattle on rough roads. Has anyone else had this happen to them? I'm going to have to remove the upper interior trim and the headliner to be able to get at it, but then what? JB weld the sucker back on? Sillicone? I don't wan't to re weld it because that would burn the paint off on the outside.

I've done the outback strut lift on my dad's brighton, so I do know the extra length of the struts, but I was under the impression that the outback springs were longer also and gave it more lift too? I may be wrong. Is the SS a five speed or a slush? Either way, the turbo will make up the difference.

Blower and resistor pack are easy to get to. All you need is a 10mm 1/4" drive socket, extension, ratchet, and a #2 phillips screwdriver. Put the front passenger seat all the way back to give your self some room, use the screwdriver to remove the plastic panel below the glove box, and you have direct acess to the blower. It has 3 nuts that hold it in, and one of the nuts is common with the resistor pack, which is a black box with wires coming off of it. It has a couple of screws that hold it to the air duct, then the blower and resistor pack come out. Often the resistor coils crack, making various speeds die and sometimes erratic operation. There is a little acordian hose to help cool the fan motor that pops off, and the plugs for both units. It's like a 5 minute job. I do it often because mice like to live in the fan shroud in my car.

Yeah, the black rubber strip is narrower on my 3-door fenders. I just figured it was because it came from a 86 and was going on a 92 loyale.

Do these carbs have the anti-backfire dashpots? A sticky one of those could cause it to race before returning to idle.

Whoa! Incoming responsibility lecture alert And as a preface, even though I've done things like that, you still deserve the lecture. :-p

And I have 3-door fenders on my wagon, so it works both ways.

Might have sucked nasty dregs from the bottom of the tank. That might have clogged your fuel filter, making it run bad.

I vote for a rod going. My engine has at least one bent rod, and it makes a loud clacking/rapping like you describe. Clacks at idle, accell, and when at neutral power. But when I let off on the gas and use engine breaking to slow down, it gets way quieter. I know that my rods are bent because I hydrolocked the engine at 4,000 rpms.

Thanks. I will look for a new one.

When you get to the point where you belive that the red line is only a "suggestion," you've done too much destructive testing with you're engine. My Ej22 saw 8k a couple times in neutral, just because it sounded cool. When I tore it apart, it looked as good as new. I drove my EA82 loyale w/ 30" mud tires at WOT for 2 hours. The guy i was road triping with said it was scary how the back of my car would buck when I dropped it down to 4th on the hills. Average speed was ~80mph. Only side affect was the loss of an exhaust manifold gasket and then the o2 sensor laid a code. I wonder if the exhaust manifold was glowing?

The plastic epoxy that the knock sensor is cast in on my 2.2l legacy motor is craking. No codes indicating a malfunction have been set, so I'm wondering whether to replace it or not?

Can I be part of the cool people too? :cool: I have an off road subie, it just won't go much father before it blows. But it will be back up to snuff eventually. So do i earn membership?

I hope it helps you more than it helped me! Just don't go bouncing the whole weight of the car off it at 20mph.

These engines are tougher than nails, so one blowing up at less than 200k is notable. Being a cheapskate myself, I'd want to do more diagnostics myself. The only thing that the computer could have influenced would be the injection. Possibly running the engine lean and melting a piston? The blinking check engine light is generally a bad thing, It means that the computer doesn't know whats going on and catilytic converter damage is most probably happening. I have seen a 2.2 legacy running fine with the check engine light on though, and it would blink during acceleration. It belongs to Konrad, and when I asked him what it was complaining about, he listed a multitude of failed sensors and codes thrown. Even so, that car passed me no problem when I was doing 90 on the highway. I would want to do a comp check and a code readout if the engine still runs. What drivability issues does it have now? Any coolant loss? Oil consumption?

If you hear sloshing, I'd say that the rear seal on the master has blown and filled up the booster with brake fluid. Take off teh vacuum hose from the booster and see if it is wet inside with brake fluid.

Being unfamiliar with rear foglights, I would like to know when it is illuminated. Does it come on when you turn the front foglights on? When you put the car in reverse? I have no idea whether the wiring would be included, the only way to find out would be to remove the trim panels in the boot. If there isn't, mabe you could run your own wire back, or splice into another light in the back. Sorry for not being too helpful.

Hydrolocking sucks. Thats when you pull water into the intake of the motor and it fills up the cylinders while its running. Driving through still water shouldn't be a problem to the top of the bumper. I would not go deeper. DOn't stop in the water, and don't rev too high while you're in. Keep it round 2k in first, and wade your way through. If youget addicted, make yourself a snorkel for the intake, then you don't risk hydrolocking. The computer is under the dash, so unless the car is full of water, you should be fine.

Under the passenger side of the dash is the fan. 3 bolt hold it on and 2 screws for the resistor pack. Pull the fan and resistor pask out, then fish/suck out all the mouse house from the ducts in there. If the car has AC, they will pask the condensor full of junk, if not, they will pack the heater core. If the temp is up to halfway on the gauge, that should be plenty for heating. I'd check the flapper door again. There's a bunch of vacuum operated bs that runs it, as well as the cable to the right of the accel pedal. Make sure it's on full hot, and move the rest of the levers under the dash by hand till heat comes out.

Yes, but if runs bigger tires, they might interfere with parts of the suspension, namely the spring lands. I'm still looking for the perfect number, and using scrap heap rims at the moment.

I think it's worse than a regular seat belt because it automatically does the shoulder belt but not the lap belt. The lap belt is also harder to reach because you have to fish it out from between the seat and the door. So the lazy ones of us won't bother to put the lap belt on and will be injured worse in a crash. It's a PITA, but it got me a few bucks off my insurance.

I always wear it. I was in a suzuki sami when we rolled it and the driver was spared because I was wearing my belt. He wasn't buckled, and the car came to a stop with me hanging from the belt above him. I doubt he would have felt good if all 230lbs of me had landed on him. My friend riding in the backseat of my wagon when I wrecked it (offroad) was saved a bit by the belt. He hit the roof and then his seat hard enough to bend it, Probably would have done severe neck damage had he not been belted. Plus, I would have had to figure out how to get a dent out of the roof. In the ford beater truck, I don't wear them, but that's because I know they are anchored into rust and wouldn't do anything anyways. 4k lbs of truck don't stop to fast anyways.

Another vote for the loose rotor. When it happened to me, I though I had run out of gas too. I even got towed to a gas station an was concerned when it didn't fire back up after filling. Ask Konrad/soo.

Have you considered dropping in another auto tranny? Get one from your local auto recyclers and swap it. Can't be more than a dedicated afternoon's worth of work. Hey, the subi rally team mechanics can do it in 11 minutes. It would be the easy way to go, and assuming its AWD, it would make the car verry marketable for the impending winter.