sea#3

Electrically the IAC (P1507) and the injectors have a common connector , I would check the connector that goes from the firewall to the engine , there are three connectors on the right side of the motor . Pop them aprt and see if there is any corrosion . Should be a 16 pin connector , concentrate on the two centre rows Hope this helps SEA#3

Does it have a roof rack with cross bars? SEA#3

Try this Murphsubaru Hope this helps SEA#3

Ill have to check the manuals to see if flash code can be read off the ABS light SEA#3

The next thing is check the fuses , relays( in the fuse box under the hood) and connection at the ABS / hydraulic unit . if thats ok it maybe the light bulb is simply burnt out . The reason it's not working may be the work that was done on the rear wheel bearings , one of the sensors or its wiring maybe damage which will set a code and the ABS will stop working until the code is cleared SEA#3

Are you sure you have ABS ? not all 99 foresters had ABS . The ABS /hydraulic unit is located on the right side front , by the headlamp , underneath the air intake snorkel SEA#3

The front A/F sensor (o2 sensor ) can go bad and "lie" to the ECM and set that code as well . usually more on the 2.5s but basically the same sensor You could disconnect it and see if it changes anything , it will set a code Easier to tell if you have a scan tool and you can check the data between the front and rear sensor to see if it is reacting properly Hope this helps SEA#3

P1507 is an idle control system malfuntion (fail safe ) Might want to check out the IAC SEA#3

Get your serial # off your car and phone your local dealer and see if the Air flow meter recall has been done on your car . There is a recall on the air flow meter and it will prioduce that code . It maybe going so lean that it is pinging and the knock control can not compensate for it There ia a blue painted dot ussally on the top edge of the air flow meter by the screw if it has been done Hope that helps SEA#3

Assuming this is an AWD car. You might want to check the jet pump, which is with the fuel pump to see if it is blocked .The purpose of the Jet pump is to transfer fuel from the left side of the tank to the right side of the tank, especially when the tank is low SEA#3

This might help you http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.5EngineValve.pdf SEA#3

I think you may want to review that. The inhibitor switch is directly involved with the starter circuit. They are known for bad contacts and intermittent starting, especially when the car are left to sit after driving (heat soak) The shift lock system does use the inhibitor switch as a reference to see if it is in park, so that you have to apply the brake before you can move the shift lever out of park SEA#3

The inhibitor switch is on the right side of the trany Try this site http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/jpg/small/0900823d801e6c14.jpg Will it start if you take it out of park and try it in nuetral ? SEA#3

Have a look at the surface of the rotors , look for a patern that looks like a record groove along the surface of the rotor. If that's the case you will have to turn them again . then the rotor should be sanded so that they have a cross hatch patern in them ,This will seat the pads faster and reduce the likley hood of the noise coming back . You should also wash the rotors after doing this to get any filings off the rotor surface SEA#3

I would pull the engine and put it on an engine stand , much easier to torque the head bolts when it's out . You might want to replace the separator plate at the rear of the motor if it's black plastic SEA#3

I'm with Cookie It's the start of a head gasket problem . You can do coolant pressure tests , you can try checking for bubbles in the over flow when running ,you can check for CO ( carbon monoxide ) coming from out of the rad using a dye or a gas bench But the best way i have usually diagnosed this problem is by doing a leak down test on each cylinder with the rad cap of and the rad topped up to the brim of the neck and watch for any change in the level SEA#3

Code 11 - Crank angle sensor or circuit Code 32 - Oxygen sensor or circuit Try disconnecting the battery for and hour and that should get rid of the codes , drive it again and see if they return If they do i would suggest you replace them if the circuit is OK SEA#3

There is a recall on your vehichle for the Mass Air Flow sensor . Take down the VIN# and phone the dealer to see if it's still valid If it's not reading correctly (not reading the correct amount of air) the ECM won't deliver the right amount of fuel (to lean ) SEA#3

Your car has thrown a code and that is why the Check Engine light is on aswell as the cruise light- which will flash The reason the Cruise Control doesn't work is because of the code . You car is a "drive by wire " on the throttle . when there is a code in the memory, it goes into a fail safe mode -will not operate Go to the dealer and get them to scan for the code Hope this helps SEA#3

You have to remove the bead molding around the edge of the sun roof opening . If you look closely there should be a section that the ends meet , grab one end and pull. Also there may be 2 clips by the back window/rear door Hope this helps SEA#3

Have you taken out the bleed screw on the right side of the rad (opposite side of the rad cap) when you filled up the rad ? If you didn't you will get an air lock Hope this helps SEA#3

You can find the diagnostic procedure at http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/2000%2B_Legacy_FSM/ Yours is a 2001 but the diagnosis is the same , you can find the flow chart on pg188 Hope that helps SEA#3

Has the trany ever been apart for any reason ? SEA#3

It's the keyless entry that is causing the lights to flash . if you have the remotes you just have to hit the disarm button . If not,you have to find the passive button which is usually found by the hood relaese (black button ) . If you don't find it there look for the control module ,which is by the fuse box. Should be strapped up there . Hold the black button down and turn the ignition to the on position . The lights should stop flashing Hope that helps SEA#3

They are not hydraulic. They are adjustable rockers on a 97 SEA#3