WJM

$700 can get lots more go fast goodies.

*another subscribe* "Houston, we have lift off..."

*subscribe*

This is great stuff. More data for me to use....for ALL to use!

Omg.

Some got a VF10 too.

You can get EBC green stuff pads from boxwer4racing.com for about $70 or so. Those are WONDERFUL. Rear pads should be had from NAPA for around 20~30. Rotors are CHEAP for the front. I can get you some good ones for no more than $20 each. Rear i dont know pricing on. I can also get braided stainless steel brake lines for the cars as well. Just go with a 2.5 inch turbo back with the Techworks downpipe. Its $199, Folger SUBARU should have them in soon. Subspeed is no longer building the items he has on his site. (if you read the fine print...you will see why/how) An adjustable WRX bar will work. Just need to be able to adjust it enough to account for the 2 inches of chassis width difference. I race these cars and have not really seen the need for a strut bar yet. Many people that I race with who have bars...have taken them off. Makes the cars push out in cornering. have not figured that one out. Rear bar is NOT nessisary. All the suspension's lateral load is down on the trailing arms and such. Ticking solution=change oil reguarly, and use QUALITY oil. I would recommend ONLY mobil 1 10w30 fully synthetic oil for the turbo cars. That and reseal the engine...clean the HLVA's (Hydrualic valve Lash Adjusters...those are what get dirty and tick) and voila! Silent...except for exhaust note... Other than that...HAVE FUN!

A basic metric tool set it best to have. Others have covered it all.

Correct. I want springs. Unless you've got a fully built engine/trans (talking dox gears and other sutff like dat) and SERIOUSLY beefy axles and all kinda of other stuff...no solid hub.

BASTAGE! You and your areodynamic wedge.... :-p

exactly. There is no particular way the ATF flows thru the rad cooler that I know of.

Me want to know too...but im going for TD04.

I adjusted the spring pressure on the flapper door air flow meter to be 'weaker' therefor making the ecu think there is more airn comming in, therefor adding more fuel. Well, i honestly think the wagon did....right before the blowby from the rusted cyl wall on two of the cylinders melted on of the pistons. The RX...is probably sitting at 140~150 right now with no IC.

...but on my road trip, 90% highway at 80~90 MPH, the other 10% being really fun mountian roads, the RX was getting....29 (TENTY NINE!!) Miles Per Gallon!!!!!

Ive ran both stock setups. XT6 and stock 4WD turbo. Both WILL slip when you've got the proper tuning and the car starts putting out over 200 HP. The morning the Wagon blew up....I messed with the fuel so it would actually dump the proper (well, close to it...MORE instead of less atleast)...and went out on 13 PSI...ok, here is the mod list: 87+ turbo cams Spyder intake+XT6 TB TWE header/DP w/2.5 stright pipe WRX TMIC GReddy EBC intake XT6 clutch setup Skip Lite Flywheel Stock turbo bottom end Custom fuel rail system w/mod injectors that may not sound like much, but it did the trick. once the fuel up high was added...the car pulled 2x harder than before...and before that i was keeping up with stock/near stock WRX's in stright lines (and curves) until about 105 MPH. After the clutch slipped during a fast shift, that was it, the clutch was TOAST. Would not hold at all. Even after letting it cool down and getting an easy start...once I got to about 3k RPMs and everything was spooling/squirting/sparking...bye bye clutch. It was only 3k miles old and only had 3 autocrosses on it. Im looking at some Exedy clutches and going to look to get the stock pressure plate increased on the clamping force, and do to a hydrualic clutch setup.

no such thing as NA RX. STOCK vs STOCK, 87+ RX vs stock XT6 both MT 4WD...I would think they would be close to even...but undoubtly the XT is would be faster. Stock an RX will onyl get to 120 MPH...and thats pushing it. It areodynamically and high RPM power challenged. The XT6 has the power/TQ to get on up there, PLUS a HUGE advantage in areodynamics. I belive it is said it can do 140+ MPH stock....the SVX can do well past 160 in stock form due to aredynamics. Speaking on XT6...i just built (in my head on the long road tripe yesterday)a VF22/8.5:1/rods/crank/MS+DIS/etc...ER27 that i tihnk will put out about 500 HP...all in an 85 DL sedan with FT4WD conversion/stripped out/rollbar...thats about 2200 lbs with 500 hp!

Dude....MSN messenger! But for those who dont know, I ran 15w-50 in two FT4WD trannys and drove them HARD as possible...i dont have an issues. Syncros smooth as butter, less drivetrain loss.

15w50 Mobil 1 synth. Dont forget the ATF flush either. Worked wonders on this RX tranny so far.

GOOD. I am idlely looking to do TD04 soon.

I dont think its an issue. Just clean it up and seal it so the rust does not spread.

Ive had an RX rusted like that. Should be fine for years to come.

No VLSDs on the older ones.

Oh, and are we going to beable to re-use the studs? Say...if I TOAST a block that I have them in, am I going to beable to get the studs out easily and install them into another block?

Ok, i see that was addressed up there... :-p I am certinly interested as well. I want some freaking 100 ft-lbs holding the head on...or MORE.