WJM

I agree with the dyno testing....but mind you I am inbetween jobs right now and i cannot justify driving 40+ miles/1 hr or more in traffic to spend about $70~$80 to go an play on the dyno for about 30 mins...and come back...then go back a few days later. I simply dont have the cash. IF i did....you would get dyno runs posted for every single timing adjustment I would make.

Oh thats right...yours is special and not part of the Folgers buy.... It will probably be some time before I do a dyno run. I imagine that it will be after I do the TD04 turbo before I spend some $ on the dyno. First...ive got to fix a great many number of small issues that have crept up....things like...the lack of addequate negative camber, adding PS and AC back on...fixing the steering column (one of the shaft bearings has come undone), fix some of the body work...redo the IC plumbing and get my other hood out and get an STi scoop fitted and do some IC air ducting...the list goes on for a bit more But, YES, I plan on dynoing soon. The most important thing is to get the engine tuned in...its far from it.

Should be 3.5/3.7 qts then. U will just need a large wrench/socket to get the trans drain plug out...I think its 24 MM.

change the fluid and filter/screen (i dont know if the 4EAT's have those tho) and get some LSD additive (the liquid kind for LSD diffs) and pour it in there along with the new ATF. Give that a spin.

2wd or 4wd? or is it Full Time 4WD? 3.5 qts for 4WD...and 3.7 for the Dual range 4WDs and Full time trans... 2WD...i think its...2.7 or so...but the turbo 2wd XT 5spds are 3.5 qts IIRC.

When i got the timing back to where it was....the turbo start spooling around 2200...and is at full boost between 2500~2700....its not far from stock of 2000 and 2400.

Here they are.

Ticking HVLAs? (Hydrualic Valve Lash Adjusters) The way to solve those is to first replace the oil pump seals. The "mickey mouse" gasket, the oring and...i think there was one more but I cant be 100% sure. Also to run some high oil detergent additives and engine flush before changing the oil...and change it reguarly. Castrol 10w30 Dino oil works best in these engines. Mobil 1 10w30 synthetic works even better than that. Another way to solve it is to take the cam cases off so you can get to the followers and HVLAs. Take them out and rebuild them. But...thats a good bit of work...and if you are going to do that, might as well pull the whole engine and buy a full engine gasket kit from SUBARU, and tear the engine down and clean it religiously, and replace every single gasket on the engine. That would add about 200k+ miles of silent rock steady service to the engine. ok..thats my 3 cents...

Usually between 0 and 10 psi at idle...around 3k it should be close to 45...+/- 10 psi. Atleast...thats what all of my RX's have read at... edit: Ofcourse, COLD psi should be above 45 psi at any RPM range...but 2000+ cold should be closer to 85 then 45.

No. But when it does its thing in hi boost, and I shift qucikly and get on it...it still does it at lower RPMs...i have to let off again for a second or two then it goes again. Did this BEFORE XT6/SPyder conversion as well.

There are aguments back and forth about which is better...bell mouth or DW. Ive seen and driven both in the EJ turbo cars...i cant realy say which is better. All I know is that this DP is 100000 times better than stock, and im not complaining. I personally like the bell mouth...there is no flow restiction at all really. And this pipe is big enough that the turbo can breathe properly with no worries. But then again...I see all the benefits of the DW...it completely separates the waste gate gases that tend to interupt the tornado'ish exh flow of the turbine gases....and the DW design takes those WG gases and lets them back into the flow at a later time. I think it all depends on the application and size of the turbo as to which is better. Im sure you can deisgn a particular pipe and mkae more power...but then go back with another deisgn and build it and make the same power. On a WRX with the same DP back exhaust...i would be willing to bet that there is NO different between a proper bell mouth DP, and a proper DW DP.

spyder and 87+ and XT6 have 4 wires....and all the 86 tps stuff has 3 wires. So...its not even hooked up really. But Like I said...it did this BEFORE i switched over TB's and stuff...when the intake was the stock 86 unit.

Thanks guys. Unfortunatly the veiwing place was rather afar way...so vid wasnt good here....hope to get vid next time.

4wd xt's had air sometimes...and sometimes not. REally hit or miss, as it was optional. my wagon did this when it was 2wd...never figured it out since it handled pretty well.

Whats weird is that on the 87+ cars it doent do that mess...and im running the same injectors as them...and the exh is just spitting out a fuel cloud when its doing this mess....too much fuel? maybe I should play with the flapper door on the air flow meter...

127 MPH and it was still pulling on stock boost....let off cuz it was time to exit the Interstate and it reached 6k RPMs. Now...the boost issue... the car run perfectly fine from idle to 6300 on stock boost...start to run out of breath around 6k+ due to cams and small turbo... With turning up the boost, anything more than 10 and the engine just stumbles all over its self with NO POWER past 5200 or so...its like the engine is getting no fuel or spark....but when it boost CREEPs by its self, it likes it just fine.... Ive tried different coils, plugs and so on...timing and such...no luck. Just...nothing. No power, and stumbing and no go...its like its hitting a sporatic rev limiter. Ive never had the 87+ cars do this which is weird. But...the MIDRANGE (3k to 5k) it pulls LIKE MAD. But thats not a useable powerband on atuox course...too much shifting...have to play with about 6 gears...1 hi/lo...2 hi/lo, 3 hi/lo...and sometimes 4 lo. Any suggestions would be great. Stock internals with 87+ turbo cams in 86 GL-10 turbo wagon...spyder intake and XT6 throttle body, WRX TMIC, oil cooler and big thick rad keeps the engine at 180 deg at all times. It also did this mess before the spyder conversion.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24678 bam!

both sides doing it?

Here they are before installtion. I'll get some installed pics after i get done routing the exh where its suppoed to go....OUT THE BACK and with the cat and "madatory mufflering device" for inspection done...

damn! I need to get on that...comming right up!

Oh adn best of all...nothing on the car broke today!

Steven and I ventured up to Winston salem for the Triad event at the Dixie fair grounds...NC25RS and him swapped truck locks finally.... Steven won DSP, and i placed 4th in SM...2 seconds behind the class winning STi. Pics!

10-15 mm or so..up....and back.

U just told me that.... And i did know that before....its just a little known fact thats ever so neato.

I need that setup then. Its valuble. rear negative is good for handling in racing/autocross stuff.