WJM

677-260 Delta Cams to go into the wagon...along with this cool stuff: Spyder intake (starting on tomorrow), and the manifold will feature a new fuel rail system, along with the XT6 throttle body. All the vac line mess and PCV mess will be cleaned up and things will look purdy and simple. TWE Header/Downpipe+2.5 inch DP back...I had TWE special ship my items just for the SUBARU challenge in Atlanta this comming saturday, and there will some nice TWE decals on the car! No cats or muffler on the system at all...stright pipe y0! WRX front calipers on otherwise stock Leone system+EBC green stuff for Legacy 90-94 w/14" wheels brake pads. GC8 (non-RA) power steering rack bushings (hopefully) Solid front control arm bushings 215/50/13 Khumo V700 R-compund tires to go on stock alloy rims (chose this instead of having to run on street tire for this, as the custom wheels are going to wait until next season...since they take 4 weeks to get parts and build) And....fix the oil cooling system leaks! I will keep everyone updated...

Rear hubs are no longer avalible new for XT6 4WD...

i didnt see anytihng on neon lights.

I should look into that before I shatter an axle on an autocross course...

Im sure you can hit up some of the Hatch patrol nuts...they are in your area.... If I were to build my own off roader...heres what I would do with the subie... a 'light' lift job...say...2-3 inches. Go with an RX FT4WD box...tear it down. LSD the front and center diff (if at all possible keep the center a locakable diff tho, if not...leave it the way it is so I can lock it), cryo all the gears...BUT...get a different gear set...an STi RA set, as its bullet proof. Go with 4.111 or 4.444 (is the 4.444 is avalible) final for both diffs (duh)...the front and rear diff would be twice the strenght as stock (which is 45 lbs I think....)...if possible redo low range for a 2:1 ratio instead of stock RX 1.196:1...and... Next...beefen the axles...reinforced DOJ cups F/R...and new diff stubbs (some kind of alloy or hardended steel or such) Go with some moderately sized tires on 15x8~9 6 lug rims with the hubs redone for 6x140mm...go with slotted rotors front and rear, with carbotech bobcat pads, stainless lines F/R. Clutch=stock XT6. Flywheel=heavyest one avalible. (26 lbs I think) Next...hmm...it woudl be a wagon ofcourse...i was thinking on rollbar or cage...nahh...redo the interior for all weather durability, manual windows and such...but iw ant a sunroof and roof rack. no spoiler or sunroof deflector....well, put the spiler back on...there, looks better. Engine: I think I will go with EA82. Turbo or not...depends on my tech for the anti lag thatwont shoot flames...lol N/A. MPFI...10.5:1, CU head gaskets, Spyder intake manifold with large throttle body, 272 Delta cams, rods....PS and AC with double pully high amp alt for all those lights I will have. Big AL racing rad with elec fans. MS+DIS full engine management. GO with STi group N trans/engine/pitch stopper mounts...and poly shiftr bushings. Use stock RX struts, RX springs front and 4WD wagon springs rear. HIgh flow header, 3 way normal cat, 2.25 inch exhaust with a sort of normal muffler...3" dia in and out....to allow higher flow but quiet. I think thats it....unless i missed something...

u can get a bleed kit from a parts store. Or just forget bench bleeding and do like I have done...bleen in cat with the lines on...just minimize air exposure.

the RX trans i put in my wagon was hard to shift...had OLD AS HELL gear oil in it...my guess is the syncros were glazed over...as i have heard said before. believe it or not, I used Mobil 1 15w50 ENGINE oil in my last trans, an XT turbo FT4WD trans..and after a while it started to shift like new...when i swapped trannys...I drained the RX box and put in this oil...it was still slow to shift...but after treating it like the XT box and just driving, its really starting to shift faster now....I woudl try synth in one of them and see what happens. Usually when something is old and ill mantained...its just like that until you give it some TLC.

check the +/- batt terminals...and check the connector on the starter...the little wire. If it still clicks...then take a LARGE dia wire...say...4 guage or so...and touch to the + side off batt...and CAERFULLY work the wire down to that little connector on the starter with the wire off it...becarefull not to groud out anywhere...if the starter engages and engine starts up with key on...then there is something wrong with the starter contacts or the ig switch stuff... my GL-10 did this..and I just ran large wire with a push button starter swtich.

I know you guys are going to kill me for this...but I had TWE ship mine special, 3 day expodited from Canada so I can have it and decals on the car for the SUBARU challenge on the 30th...since the peces wont be at the dealer till after next week :-\ ...cost me an exta $100 in shipping ....but you guys will get the sneak peak with pics, installtion and performance boosts.

Rice (Rhy-sssssss) noun (1) Mods to any make/brand/model of vehicle made by owner/primart operator which promotes the "go fast look" but does not actually have the "go fast" after said mod. (2) Mods that promote the "go fast," but do not actually perform as indended due to installer error/tuning and once again fuction as a fashion only mod. (3) A part or mod that has form and/or fit, but no function other than form and/or fit. (4) Decals of any given brand name displayed on the vehicle, yet given brand names do not exist on given vehicle, and/or the part/mod in which the decal represents is not a real/genuine part to that given brand name. (5) A domestic Asian food. Very popular around the world.

Two more headers to be welded up and its all ready to ship....the check from Folgers is on its way...and will be there either today...or next week and some point...and shortly there after, the items will be arriving here in USA! Those of you who have paid....if you remember back to the original thread...the only thing left fo you guys to do is call in when they arrive, and they WILL have your original recipt on hand, as I will be there to show them all this....just call them (1-704-536-9635, ask for parts, then as for Mike or Neil) and tell them who you are and that you purchased a TWE peice/set...all you have to do now is pay for shipping. I do not know what shipping will cost...but it should be less than $35 me thinks...if paying by Credit Card/debt card, and you call before 5pm EST..the item(s) will ship that same day via UPS. If you do not have a card, and need to send money order or paypal...i can help in that regard....or ask them about that option...they CAN do COD...but there is a UPS service charge for that...and they usually dont like doing COD's... :-\ Either way...I should have more pics posted of these units even before they arrive...im so excited!

Nothing....yet! Seriously...i have just been giving this RX tranny hell, and I am wondering what it will take for it to break....its not like I am abusing it tho...I wait for the syncros to catch up, and I use the clutch, and rev match on down shift.... The XT FT4WD one i had inthere before that i gave ALOT of hell to it...and it put up with a good bit of autocross launches (HARD) and shifting....the RX box went thru 24hr race...and its still the same as before that...so... I really wonder what power level it will break, or after how many autocrosses on wide sticky R's its going to nuke on me... On the other hand...i had this XT turbo 2WD trans in back in the 2wd days...i gave it 3x more hell....flat foot into 2nd alot...clutch drops in 1st and 2nd...REALLY abusive shifting...pulling a mustang out of a ditch (i was on pavement) and all sorts of other crap....and it just kept going like nothing had happend...

Ive heard a different theory about it...something about how the trans were put together and the quality of the gear set....but you didnt hear that...and there have been failures, and all the ppl were doing was driving it normally (IE not flogging or launching or redling shifting) and they certinly knew how to drive the cars 'correctly'....

how? too much stress over putting power to 4 corners?

Still, no where near the failure rate of the WRX trans.

so yes it was forks and no gear breaking....coolness.

so both times it was the shifter forks when shifting...but no gear nuke'age?

engaging reverse with the clutch...or already had full power going to it and then it nuked?

Ok, fess up, WHO has broken one of the EAxx transmissions, and how did it break and under what circumstances? Information gathering I am....

Yes, check the manifold gaskets. I did have one do that on a SPFI i had...PITA to drive with it like that, and it did water up the oil. Check that.

the Stock 4WD/RX suspension that is on the car now will handle most everything that rally'in can throw at it. I'no'dis.

Right here. I do ahve the catalog at home, and i wish i could look it up....but I need to get some other software to get it running properly....but you didnt read this at all. I am not aware of any kit. But I am sure you can get the internals no problem, as I was pricing a new LSD out for 3.90....it was not cheap for the LSD it self...but I think rebuilding it would be ALOT less....but then again, i did no price the clutches and springs and stuff...just the LSD center section. Anyhow...why rebuild the LSD on that thing? Its STRONG y0! I should know this as I drove that thing alot in RWD.

I need LSD front and CENTER....i will leave the stock RX LSD rear alone....

As long as the heads are TRUE, and the HGs are OE (i would still use the OE turbo ones just ot be safe and give it some overkill), and you CLEAN those holes and bolts up so the head gets TQ'd down correctly, the block should be fine as long as it was not "toasted" IE: overheated severely. Ive cooked my current block BAD on the Dragon...lost ALL coolant after the turbo coolant line cracked...it was running not much good (wow, thats bad english there) as it was knocking so bad the ECU had the timing so far retarded it wouldnt go up a hill! After letting it cool and put water back in it...its fine and 10k miles later or so, still going and pushing 13 psi daily.\ So i think the blocks are fine and tough as nails...after all it IS closed deck.

That temp is PERFECT! Mine runs that as well...and Ive got a big rad and an even more radical oil cooler setup. In my experience...ANY oil filter is going to leak a teeny bit on a SUBARU...i dont know why...but as long as its not dripping at all...just a teeny bit...id not worry about it.