WJM

My wagon weighs in at 2664. I posted that a LONG time ago. Thats 700lbs lighter than the STi mind you.

You need to build me the ECU and stuff so I can just bolt iton, wire it up and tune and go.

Good info shadow. So the cliff notes is that the ebay IC is not the best...but would work 'ok' in our applications for the EA82T? My next question is....would it be better, worse, or the same as the stock WRX TMIC...?

Is it NEGATIVE camber? aka the top of the tire/wheel is farther in than the bottom of the tire/wheel?

Its one of 424 made. Its a HAND BUILT car. The changes are...hand made wide body kit...special wheels, different brake package...the EJ22G makes 380 hp from the factory on 100 octane fuel. The handling is like no other factory car (has special built Bilstien dampers)...and a lot of other teeny things here and there that make the car so special. The cars sold new around $75k with no problem. I'd gladly give 100k for one. Its WELL worth it.

the turbo is moved up as well as back. I do not know of the reast of the order has shipped to Folgers. I will check on that monday.

Lower air flow is not that big of a deal for rad cooling. I did have the idea of some ducting to direct more air to the rad behind the IC.

DIdnt come off wrong...i guess my response made it look like it did tho. Everyone has a comment about the roof rack and such....Dale at boxer4racing.com autox's a sweet 98 impreza L wagon...has the roof rack delete on it. THAT looks good. The Gen 3 wagons with out the roof stuff jsut looks....ugly. The Gen 1's and 2's look good either with or with out. Yes...those are from a blown head gasket. The engine pictured in the car is the replacement engine for the engine thats pictured with the huge gaps there....

Ive never seen one....just the oil, brake, ecs/check engine/ lights...

Thats not a Hi jack. This is a brain storm post. Rocks mud and etc can be mostly taken care of by a fine mesh screen with some brackets to protect the bottom end. Ive personally never had issues with flying debris up there unless following someone or in really off roadish stuff that a severly different kind of turbo setup would be needed. Mounting it behind the air dam is no good. there is zero space for such a thing. I didnt want to cut up a hood either...but i had an extra one and used it. Piping...is an excellent point. I do realize there is not much space to route items, but when engine compartments become "performatized"...certin items become deleted/resized/relocated in the engine compartment, allowing piping to be routed easier. Lag: It would slightly increase spool time and decrease throttle response....but you would gain... No heat soaking Better intake air charge cooling efficency, aka cooler denser air charge=more hp cabability some bling bling and it would be just plain better and cooler to have a FMIC over a TMIC in out cars due to the space limitations and other reasons.

why does everyone make fun of the roof rack? the car looks liek sheet with out it...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7932419808&category=33742 Warning...many pics to load in that auction....so here are some cliff notes: Core size: 30 X 6 X 2 Tanks: 2.125 wide X 7 high X 3.25 deep Piping: 2.5 OD X .0625 wall X 2.25 long There are eight cooling rows and eight fin rows on this intercooler. The cooling rows on this intercooler are internally finned. We would mount this to the bottom of the front bumper. Ok, lets have opinions, critics, ideas and flames!

A relay and fused wiring is highly recommended...I used 4 high wattage lights and the toggle switch got pretty warm....a high amp relay would have taken care of that. the wagon almost burned to the ground one day...the non fused/non relay'd AC circuit I have rigged up shorted out and the wiring melted all the insulation....causing smoke and the wiring melting into its nearest neighbors.

.8 qt for the rear. Front may be same. Start at .8 and continue filling until the dip stick indicates a full level of fluid...for the auto that is. If its a manual 4x4 trans....3.5 qts for single and dual range trans. Full time 4WD trans gets 3.7 qts.

I never had a problem with that before I did the spyder conversion. Just hook it up like factory and it will be fine.

After fixing all the leaks in my hastily thrown together IC plumbing and vac leaks on the intake manifold...and tuning in the timing....here are my almost final conclusions on the TWE combo.... Turbo spools and it as full boost between 2400-2700. Very fast respool as well. Mid range and high range is vastly improved. The only two items that could make the high end better is Delta cams (had no problems getting to 7k with the 260 cams) and/or a larger turbo. Low range is better as well...the engine doesnt mind lugging around town between 1600-2400 at all. There is a suprising amount of power there as compared to before. Also note that I have cams from an 89 RX turbo with an atuomatic trans. I have not ventured to run higher boost levels as of yet...I am still playing in the stock range until I have the timing optimal. So far, the only issues on install is: PS lines need to be moved or re routed (of moved, they dont need to be moved too far, just a little bit) Turbo coolant return line needs to be replaced with a longer line. Turbo oil return line needs to be replaced with a longer line. Slight adjustment to IC or stock intake plumbing required (not a big deal really) Exhaust note is considerbly different as well as MUCH louder (for non muffler'ed apps) Thats all for now!

my stock 85-86 cams pulled better past 4500 than the stock 87+ cams do. That was with an intake similar to Kevins and a stock style exhaust with gutted cats and a 2.5 inch cat back. I do know that stock they stop breathing well at 5500. The ONLY EA82T ive had th freely rev past that is my 89 RX with the delta cams...intake and custom bell mouth down pipe. I reved to 8k with mucho power before I decided its time to shift. I think the MAIN restiction at that 5500 mark is the header. While Pleiades RX was on the dyno, and stuck in that spot where it was 5500-6500....i ventured to stick my hand close to the exh flow out the tail pipe....you would not believe the amount of air rushing out. Then i thought about all that air having to go thru that stock header.... After tuning in the timing and a few other things with the new TWE header and DP...the turbo now spool like it used to at around 2400-2600, full boost no later than 2700. Power all the way to 6k no problem. thats when i feel the cams are the limiting factor now, along with the small size of the turbo. Tho I feel the cams are the main restiction in the 6k range. And strangely....out of the 3 RX's Ive had and boosted well beyond stock boost cut...ive never hit the fuel cut.

only by you. on stock internals and cams I am making 160-180 range. Its no trouble...on STOCK boost too. why would NA do it? Because it can. proper air flow in and out of one of these engines NA with proper timing and fuel tuning with the compression and cams will get this engine to 160 na ponies. At this point, the suspension on the car is so good I dont really need any more than 160...but id like to ahve 160 when i put my foot down, not a sec or two later. If I had the $, I would have an EA82T putting out 400 hp like those rally guys in canada have done back in the early 90's. Yes, FOUR HUNDRED. Either way, i would be happy with a 220-240 hp EA82T, and those WILL hold together just fine every day for quite a while...its just a matter of getting a different turbo, exhaust and playing with the ecu and boost control some more. 2175 lbs for a 1986 DL sedan 5 spd 2wd. That is stright from section one of the FSM for 1986. I stripped out atleast 300-400 lbs of mess from my RX coupe...a DL might have less, but it will still have about 300 lbs worth of stuff to get rid of. That and a AL racing seat and some light weight body panels will do wonders in reducing weight. I do not dissagree nor agree. All i know is that I am in search of 11:1 static, as that is the limit on pump fuel.

Warning...large pics... The pics of the block is what happens when you blow a head gasket and continue to drive until the engine stops running. The spots you see in the block...are almost equally bad in the mirrored spots on the heads....which, btw, the heads never cracked.

the sensor just sends back to te ecu how much noise the enigne is making...and ecu dumps fuel when there is too much noise. I thought it could retard the dizzy too....but there is only movement for advance...aka vac advance.

thats an aero engine....

Run with a T-stat installed. There is a reason. The engine/coolant will be cooled like its supposed to be. Running w/out it....big no no. Detonation control.... So i ahve the dizzy one tooth farther advanced than stock....because I found I was advancing it farther than it could travel and still no knock...so i bumped it up a tooth. Seemed fine. Then...i noticed TONS of raw fuel under boost out the side pipe....and my fuel mileage dwindeled to 17 MPGs...NEVER has it been so low in interstate travel. Plus...upon initial turbo spool....knock like crazy. So...retard it some...better. 18 MPGs now. Retard some more...even bettAr! close to 20 mpgs now. my conclusion: Stock EA82 MPFI/Turbo ECU solves detonation by dumping more fuel. No wonder the 88 and 87 odnt detonate stock with 30 deg timing and leave clouds of fuel under WOT....but the 88 got close to 30 mpgs at one point....

im not worried about det on a carb engine. Plus i have new insights on det on FI EA82s... 11:1 static compression.

Yes. I did not like driving Jo around and having to muscle the car. I dont like having to muscle it anyhow.

sounds like a short somewhere to me.