WJM

The sensor is about 4 inches from the turbo on the 'cool' side of things....thats about 20~25 inches from the head(s)... The AEM doesnt require of provide for open air calibration...all of that is done already from the factory, and when the sensor is toast, its toast. On normal pump gas, with it seeing the 'prescribed' heat range...its said to last atleast 80,000km....aka 49,720.3231821006836544437538844..... miles. I can tell that the stock O2 sensor is toast until it gets heated up...and even then its sorta slow to respond. When my new AEM sensor gets here, I'll replace the one thats on the OEGO currently, which is a used one that takes about 20 mins to start working at all. Then, I'll send a 0-1v signal from the UEGO controller to the stock ECU so it'll run off the UEGO controller and sensor for its stock O2 sensor readings...and then I'll truly get to see just how the stock ECU does with closed loop fueling...and what it does under boost. As for emissions...I dont care. IF i had to do emissions, it'll be one of two situations: 1. Idle test only, it'll pass when i install a 3 way cat(OR pass when I install a 'fake cat' pipe and tune the MS to pass emissions at idle w/out a cat in the exhaust. Its been one before.). 2. Calif style emissions...stock exhaust reinstalled, but since its an AWD car, emissions waived due to lack of AWD emissions dyno.

Not a clue. Should have been the alt+grounds. Did you check the positive charge wire from the alt to the batt for resistance?

Or you can get that stuff thats used on real race cars. The 'pushlock' type hose that alot fo teams use as the oil lines...its nearly impossible to destroy.

internal or external regulator?

No one? Interesting how the stock ECU cruises at 15.5~17.0 AFR.

Cool. LSD front is as possible for the RX boxes as it is for the EJ 5mts. They are very common. Go get a Cusco, Kaaz, OBX-R, ATS, stock STi one...etc. As far as I know, the rear 4.444 swap should be simple. Pull a rear diff from an AT outback, and swap the diffs. Done. FRONT...little harder. Pinion shafts are different. I'm sure it can be done. *BUZZZZZER* Wrong. They come in alot of items here in the USA. Pretty much any Auto Legacy with the EJ25 has 4.444. Outback, Legacy GT, Impreza 2.5 RS....Foresters...etc... Oh, 5MT! The Outback XT, Forester XT, Baja Turbo.....some others. Lots on the road.

OR install electric ones. I did the support mod...never do it again.

My vote is for a cracked header.

Meaning...the 7306 will work on an XT. Someone didnt try hard enough methinks...

With the TWE header, TWE DP, an intake, AWIC, stock boost and stock everything else, I took down an Integra GSR on the highway. Last I checked the GSR's are B18's and VTEC. I have MINIMAL mods. Again...I only have a header, full turbo back, an air to water intercooler (Toyota ST165 unit), and an intake. Everything else is stock. I was even on stock boost at the time. I thought the GSR's were fast? They are classed in STX...and STX is a class for 'quick' cars. No one truely knows the limits of the EA82. Last I checked the bore was 92MM. Wait? Whats that? Did i hear that ALL EJ20x's have a 92MM bore as well? HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM........................... The A10's are light. Wait? Hondas are light? Really? wow...stock for stock weight is similar. EXCLUDING older Si's and CRX models. Last I checked you can only get about 200~250 hp and no TQ out of a B series honda engine in N/A form....thats even with spending lots of $ on EMS and other parts. Go turbo and you make more power and some TQ. Last I checked I made 240hp and 320tq at the crank on a stock EA82T with the only difference being I made the stock turbo push 15 psi and I had an Air to Air intercooler (USDM STi). Thats like...'impossible'. Lets see... USDM STi: Average weight is 3250....stock power is 300/300. 10.8 power to weight ratio. USDM EJ205 WRX: Average weight is 3100....stock power is 227/218. 13.9 power to weight ratio. WJM RX: Average weight is 2550....power is 240/320. 9.1 power to weight ratio. I win.

Cool. That makes 3 of us now.

Its about percentage of weight distruibution. You want to support the car per the weight distribution. While it is true heaver rears will make a car rotate...its a bandaid. an AWD car is not a FWD, or is it a RWD. It takes on the attributes on BOTH at the same time and its a different animal to make it work like it 'should'...even now people are just now beginning to figure it out. Stompy, one of the top Street Prepared STi's, runs 1000lb front and 700 rear with no bars. Toe settings are unknown...but it works great. Plus, if you notice, alot of the Jap coilovers come with the higher rates up front...i thought it was backwards until I looked at the physics of it all.... I NEVER run anything but zero toe in the front. Any in or out hurts steering return and the overall feel of the car. Rear toe is where its all at. If you need to make a car rotate fast, toe it out all the way. It'll scare your azz off, but it'll be loose as a goose. Toe in makes the car more stable. In the end, I will have a TINY bit of toe in and about -.75 in the rear. ZERO toe in the front, with about -2.5 camber and hopefully +6 castor. Right now I am close to that and the car is working suprisingly well on the POS street tires. As for the back in the air....never worked for me on tarmac. The lower I took it, the better it was. TOO low i finally found...and I've been raising it back up. Seems like about 1/2inch of fender gap on the street tires is best for the Rcomps and the streets. I will most likely end up running 700~800lb in the front and 500~600 in the rear. NO BARS.

450F/350R Its actually a nice ride when the REAR SHOCKS are working...right now they are...not working...so the rear bounces around TOO MUCH. The front is nearly perfect. Even in a 2.5 RS with 10k/12k (560F/672R) springs, the Teins had the correct valving for them and the ride was very good.

I've had 'stock' struts since the beginning of time. W/out the bars, I have no increased bodyroll over when the bars were on there. My spring rates are over 2x what stock is. My springs are controlling the body roll.

*I* dont sell them. *I* am a Performance Engineer. I am *NOT* a sales person. *I* only recommend them to people up to a certin level. Say, they want a great handling STi but not spend over $800...then bars, springs, tophats, and its done. Handles great. Price up to 1200? Same but with better springs. 1400~2000? Add in some nice D2/Tein coilovers. Over that? depends on how long you want yout kidneys to last....no bars, 1000F/700R LOTS of rebound and just enough compression...get that digressive chart going on with the valving. Lots of caster. Whamo, done. I never recommend bars for an EVO as the stockers are quite hefty as they are....some good coilovers balanced for the car, corneer balance and align on install and its done.

I remember when I forgot to hook the front up....on a stock susp. RX....somewhat unfun as it was sorta...unpredictable. A lot of the WRX and STi guys are running 700~1000 and up spring rates...so bars dont matter, like you said. eventho with my rates (450/350), I *SHOULD* need bars...but to me, the car feels better without. I am sure that with *PROPER* bars on the front and rear...it could improve the handling...but I just dont have time to make new front endlinks, spend the $$$ on a new whiteline XSF33XXZ bar for STi (27MM) or the Strano 32MM... and ESPECIALLY for the rear I dont have the time or $ to sink into designing a new bar, mounting and endlinks that will work the way it should. So, away go the bars and here come the springs and dampers.

Usually nothing to as much as $60.

AND they take up dead weight. I, and many others, have come to the conclusion that the stock rear bars, of ANY size, are 100% useless and only its only purpose is to add unsprung weight to the car. The FRONT however...is like any other EJ subie...and works just fine and as intended. Still, its weight...so I took it off. No more push. Rotates like a certin RS I used to codrive...aka sideways on demand... SSSSSSSSSSOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO..................I'll be playing w/out swabays from now on.

So...got this nifty 30-4223 gauge for xmas... http://www.importperformance.com/prod/30-4223 And this nifty 30-2300 dual channel uego controller for cheap(cheap as in it was laying around the shop)... http://www.importperformance.com/page/IP/PROD/AEM-UEGO/30-2300 and I 'found' two spare UEGO sensors...but they are toast as I found out, so I ordered a new 30-2001 from AEM, should be here next Tuesday... So, ive got everything installed, and both the sensors read only the 'narrow' range...14.2 to 15.2 AFR's....effectively, they are toast. So, when the new one gets here, I'll post up what the RX runs for its REAL LIFE AFRs on the street............ That also means that when i get the MegaSquirt back and install it...I'll be able to REALLY use the wideband auto tune feature for cruise...and beable to log REAL AFRs on logging runs. Pics of the install to come when the new sensor gets here and I confirm that the whole setup is reading properly. Right now I am using the bung I made for the MS tuning sessions for the UEGO setup...its welded in right before the bend to go down and out to the rest of the exh system on the TWE downpipe...If I have to have TWO sensors to make the controller work...I'll just weld in another one right beside it.

4.111 was perhaps the most common gearset here in the USA. Most (if not 4.111, they are 4.444) EJ25x 5MT cars are 4.111 (Legacy, Outback, Impreza, Forester)...alot of the autos are 4.111...most others are 4.444.... Not many of the EJ cars are 3.700 or 3.900...WRXs are 3.700/3.545...US STi is 3.900...

only later STi models had the factory front LSD. you can get aftermarket front LSDs for any of the 5spds.

Yeah, the early TWE headers are designed for their drag car...no power steering. My header and PS lines occupied the SAME place...so i fabbed up some new PS lines and ran them elsewhere.

Ah...and even further in that case............... .............. ...I might just get me one.

I dont know which one...but it IS an EA81 fan...and it DOES fit even with the bigazz 2 row race radiator I have. The stock mechanical fan DOES NOT FIT with the big rad.

I've thought of this. With a donor car, this would be easy.