LosDiosDeVerde86

yeah, guessing can make it better or worse. i'd take it to someone who knows what they're doing.

sounds plausible i guess

you neglected to mention that it was a wagon. somethings you should know that havn't been mentioned... all subaru wheels will fit all subaru car (except the old 4-lug ones) your motor is the non-interference EJ22. [model:EJ litre:2.2] outback suspection parts are a direct fit all legacys from 95-99 are interchageable (except for the grill/front bumper combo. they both need to be either 95-96 or 97-99) outback struts will give you about 2" of clearance. the springs are the same as on the legacys (i havn't seen any evidence that they're stiffer) the biggest tires i can fit undre my lifted 96 legacy are 215/70R15 BFG's you can get your 16" wheels off of a legacy gt, but they won't fit a 245. they're 6.5" wide. i'm SURE that there's stuff i left out. if there's one thing you'll learn its that subarus are INSANELY well designed for the DIY mechanic. everything is very easy. good luck. and yes, check out www.sl-i.com see you there

thanks for the comliment

also, the EJ model should be cast onto the engine near the front under the manifolds.

yeah, get the tires balanced. getting into drive shafts and stuff should be a last resort. btw, alignments never cause a vibration...unless it's off in a way that really chomped up the tires which in that case the tires would be at fault, not the alignment.

i have a canon zr45 mc. i think it's great. and as for quality-wise, the only thing better you're gonna get is somnething in the professional range and a few grand.

yeah, sounds like a 44k induction service.

aye

actually i'm pretty sure that you can make it a complete opening. just take off the black cover on the inside.

juan, you're wrong. period. my cousin's 97 legacy gt has a scoop. the late 96 gts and LSi's did not however. (edit)...my fault, i see you corrected yourself.

no, it's a specific manufacture date that it CAN happen.

actually it was because sometime's they'd hit things like parking blocks (like you said) but they would cause the airbags to go off.

i just sold my NES toploader for 150 bucks.....i have sellers remorse....

speaking of which, i've got an alternator FS (or trade) if anyone wants it

if none of that works... if the rotors are really rusty or low, they build up more heat without dissapating. this will cause the brake fluid to boil and cause air pockets which will make the pedal squishy. make sure your rotors aren't rediculously rusty, and that they're within spec.

small triangular plastic cover on right side under the car by the bumper. i think it covered rad-fan wiring.

yes, but a lot of things that people don't take into account with that is how much oil an engine burns (1qt every 3k is NOT abnormal) and the filter may not last 15000 miles. every now and again "they" say that oil changes should be farther and farther apart. most all techs and garages will say 3k miles between oil changes for optimum engine life. my car burns (or leaks) about 1.5 - 2 qts per 3000 miles. an older car goes through more oil than a new car. use your best judgement based on the oil color and fluid depth.

i've got tools that i can access, i just gotta talk to my buddy and tell him to bring them home from work so i can borrow them

Specs: 1996 EJ22 (Legacy) Problem: Oil leaking into the #4 cylander burning off at the plug Solution (supposedly): pull valve cover and replace the gasket is there a write up on this? i hear it's easy to do, but i'm not sure where to begin. assistance would be appriciated. BTW, i got the solution tip from someone on www.sl-i.com

you think dealership wires?

how's replacing it?

no...i'm not complaning about gas mileage, it's been steady 17.5 since i bought the car even after i put big tires on it. my question is, however, my car runs rich. i can smell the gas when the car is idling. ideas on that? Also, my #4 cyl. is leaking oil and burning on the plug. i go through about 1.5 - 2 qts of oil in 3000K miles. no MAJOR smoke (dissapates within 3 feet of exhaust when heavily accelorating) and no major external leaks. i've never seen a drip on the ground. Ideas?

ok, i did a search and couldn't find what i was looking for. right now i've got NGK plugs with stock wires. my #4 plug is burning oil but that's beside the point. is it actually worth upgrading wires for power? recommendations?

no, when mine's in first, it's in first. the only time it steps down downshifting is if i'm going too fast fo the gear it'll go to the next lowest gear until it's slow enough, then go all the way.