TOONGA

Sadly the block will need to be honed at least to be usable. TOONGA

All that will happen is that the computer will continue to clear any code that shows up. Once the plugs are all disconnected you may find that you engine throws a code. TOONGA

Different motor different design You would be better off looking for a complete "FB" motor and then finding an after market computer system to run it. TOONGA

I assume you mean a transfer case? this is what it looks like installed in a brat (note brat is wrong side up for ease of viewing) stolen from here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/135063-2nd-transfercase-rigs/?p=1141609 more photos here http://www.indysworld.com/vehicles/1982-brat-red/82redbrat.html the page comes with some build notes TOONGA

Have you checked that the oil sender switch is working properly? is it the original sender? Can you check the actual oil Pressure? Did you change anything on the oil pump? is it the original oil pump? What weight oil are you using? TOONGA

What year car is the Motor and ECU out of? There may be a difference in pin out diagrams. TOONGA

go to this site http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ choose the legacy outback section and find your year The FSMs are very concise TOONGA

You need the outer CV joints so that the wheels roll and your steering works. TOONGA

They work really well as a rear wheel drive. I did it to an 82 wagon, I used 2 old Outer CVs and popped the box into 4WD. I drove it for a month or 2 before I sold it to a young guy who used it as a burnout vehicle. he had a ball in it and the only reason he stopped driving it was because the motor blew up. as I understand it the diff and gearbox live on in another vehicle. Do it and have a good time. TOONGA

Would love a set of these (4) but Im pretty sure the shipping cost to Australia would make it easier for me to find a machinist here to do it. They look great and the cars look even better with the 5 stud rims on them. TOONGA

Far out ... how many of these do you have hidden? Love the crows / ravens chiming in after you say "there out there you just gotta find em..." Good luck with the restoration. TOONGA

You need to use a welder with gas or a good stick welder If all else fails get a hole saw and cut a hole above the bolt. then oil the bolt and slip a spring washer and a nut on the bolt. then tighten it up using what ever tools you can to get it nice and tight. TOONGA

While this page details the build into a VW it has lots of information http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=136053 hope it helps TOONGA

From the look of your attached image you only have the standard weber return spring attached to the carby. I would hazzard a guess that the venturi forces are forcing your main butterfly open (the engine is sucking enough air to open the butterfly) causing the engine to rev harder causing the butterfly to open futher until it pulls the secondary open causing the WOT. Just a guess, but Ive seen it happen years ago to an old 186 holden motor that ran until it disemboweled itself... funny and sad at the same time. TOONGA

Would love to see more on this... I did a search but nothing showed up. TOONGA

Very good stuff there. Will have to keep an eye on this "little" project TOONGA

What condition is the internals of the engine in? good compression ? bad compression ? It could be that the engine had a great deal of blow by, so they blocked that pipe to stop some of the oil and gases venting into the aircleaner. Try it without the nut and see how the engine runs. If it is good and no blow by, then great. if not then you may need to look at what is causing the blow by. (if excessive) I would be concerned about the "water" as well was it water or clag glue looking? TOONGA

or get a brand new one http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-429967100-GENUINE-OEM-FACTORY-ORIGINAL-OIL-PUMP-/231191192030?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru|Model%3ABrat&hash=item35d411a1de&vxp=mtr TOONGA

Cool I didn't look at the brand Just that it came up in the 38/38 weber search on Ebay. Where did you get your rebuild kit? as the last one I bought cost 70 +dollars from Ebay and they wanted over 120 dollars in the shop. TOONGA

How about a 38/38 ? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/428-NEW-UNIVERSAL-CARBURETOR-TYPE-WEBER-38X38-2-BARREL-FIAT-RENAULT-FORD-VW-4CYL-/121085053536?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c313b4a60 TOONGA

The hardest part of the installation is the undoing of the snap bolts that the complete ignition surround is installed with. the other way to do it is to release the barrel from the surround via the locking tabs. I found it easier to replace the whole lot. I used a centre punch to loosen the snap bolts, or you can drill the heads off then use locking pliers to undo the bolt shaft. I took the steering column out of the junk yard car it was way easier. TOONGA

Looks like it was plugged to stop the quart of oil in the air cleaner at high speed problem. Is your PCV working (the valve) a couple of links with diagrams for how the plumbing should work http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/120425-pcv-routing-for-ea82-with-a-weber/ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/131036-1987-gl-10-wagon-ea82-3at/ note both links are for engines running webers but the diagrams should be useful. TOONGA

could be the cone washer or that you didn't do up the nut tight enough. Or both. I use a 3/4 inch truck breaker bar with a 36mm socket on it. the breaker bar has a 4 foot long inch square steel pipe that slides over it. I tighten the nut up as much as possible using the 4 foot bar, then stand on the breaker bar and tighten it about another quarter of a turn. TOONGA

Nice video, it is in fact the one that got me thinking about doing it to my Brumby / Brat It took a while to get all the parts sorted but in early June 2010 I had my engine and carby in. http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15851 TOONGA

Did you replace the whole unit or just the solenoid on top? If just the solenoid on top the it has to be ajusted so that the engine runs at around 750 -- 800rpm at idle. If you replaced the whole unit ( with a new one) it should idle at around 750 -- 800rpm once in place. see this video TOONGA