TOONGA

one of these will plug right into where the fusable link sits and works exactly the same way. http://www.rvplus.com/cooper-bussmann-fusible-link-female-30-amp-bp-flf-30.html I have them in my brumby and they work exactly the same way as the old style fusable link, and won't corrode away as easily as the old style ones. TOONGA

read this thread about your CEL p0420 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=135049&highlight=p0420 TOONGA

It sure is, my brumby has an EJ22 with a weber carby, a single range 5 speed liberty box, rear discs, a 2 inch lift, borla copy headers and a customised factory 2.25 inch exhaust from a wrx. TOONGA

this is my momo on my brumby I used a SAAS kit ( PART# BK121L ) from the guy who won't ship to the USA currently AU $66.28 + AU $10.00 shipping TOONGA

+1 it might not be the sexiest bit of fabrication but it is up high and out of one piece of pipe. O_o TOONGA

You can drill these hubs out to 5 lug, I have seen it done here in Australia. I wouldn't do it as the hubs don't have much meat / thickness where the studs sit. As stated it is better to go to either a 4 stud setup or a 6 stud set up. As well it depends on what rims you want to fit, there are hub adaptors available but for the life of me I cant find the bookmark for them sorry. found the link, I tell you it isn't much fun trying to search through 400+ bookmarks, I just needed to remember that the USA uses lug instead of stud http://shop.adapterkings.com/main.sc;jsessionid=0C8D4C572A244DA619FE943CDFAEC5D5.qscstrfrnt02 TOONGA

I have a rear disc set up on my Brumby and I don't know if we get a proportioning valve from the factory. I have never had a problem with the brakes since I put the discs on, in fact my ute actually stops now TOONGA

Judging from the bonnet I would say a loyale (aka "L" series in Australia) TOONGA

That is a great deal of work and a great result, sadly a car that rusty in Australia would end up a little square of steel. Which would then be used to make great walls or kias Good to see another subi saved from the recyclers. TOONGA

Buy the service kit for your auto trans and use that to replace everything servicable. That way you won't have to worry about cleaning parts or re using old o rings. should be around 40 dollars + shipping TOONGA

do you have an electric choke or a cable choke ? TOONGA

depending on how cold it got in your region, you could have a false wooden floor with copper or aluminium pipes under it. this would run off the radiator system with a heater tap to turn it off when not in use. TOONGA

+1 for rear hubs, apparently Subaru Japan have them but I don't have a mining license for the gold bars needed to purchase the rear hubs from subaru TOONGA

I got given this diagram a while ago I'm pretty sure it comes from USMB somewhere. What grille are you going to use with the twin headlight set up? TOONGA

you need to plumb your PCV properly the over pressurisation is caused by the blowby not being removed properly from the crankcase. the above picture shows the proper way to vent the crankcase gases from the engine and into the PCV. The brass looking item on his engine, is a reducer that vents gases this will work but is not an ideal solution for the PCV gases. this is because the gases also play a role in removing oil from the rocker covers back into the sump. TOONGA

Yep the TDO4 from the EA82 and all the plumbing (thats what we got here in OZland) will bolt in as a replacement and deliver a bit more power to the EA81T I have had some guy off the street track me down while I was working and offer me $5,500 AU for my brumby. I nearly sold it to him but that would mean I would have to make another one like mine TOONGA

very nice, I just love those twin carb motors I have been told by an engine rebuilder, that in order to stop piston slap in these motors when they are rebuilt, the biggest piston in diameter is put into cylinder 3. how true that is I don't know but he said it works. TOONGA

these are the twin carb heads, very nice looking as well. could we have pictures of the inlet and exhaust as well please is it number 3 piston that has no hole drilled in it? TOONGA

Just looked on Ebay these are selling for 10 dollars US already WTF... TOONGA

does your weber have an Idle Jet Solenoid http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/43914.060.htm http://www.jtoutfitters.com/weber-carb-idle-solenoid-3236-dgev-3838-dges-p-4667.html This will stop the dieseling 99% of the time. TOONGA

The biggest difference with the Dual carby heads is the reversal of the inlet and outlet valves (on the true Dual carb heads) do yours have 2 inch or bigger exhaust ports? and a visible separator on the inlet port making 2 D's as for available information all I can give is that I owned one of these motors for a few years. sadly I sold the car as I moved country (wish I never had now) And when I came back to Australia the car had vanished along with the motor Inlet and outlet clearances are the same, not sure if you will need solid or hydraulic lifters, mine had solid. Mine was mated to a 3.9 ratio straight cut 4 speed dual range box (came with the motor) and I was able to tune it to get between 95-100 km/h out of second gear. Timing was set at 8 degrees any less and the motor ran like a chaff cutter, any more and it pinged its little head off. they are a fantastic motor and will rev way higher than the normal EA81. you will be amazed TOONGA

Ok then I would say the needle is worn, and that the carb itself is in need of a rebuild after sitting for so long. you are beter off going with something that is easier to maintain. not sure if you have seen this page http://www.smbaker.com/sand-rail/manx/monster-turbocharged-volkswagen-manx It may give you an idea of how you could make a manifold for a downdraft carby. TOONGA

A zenith stromberg CD175 would work in place of the SU, but failing that a weber, mikuni or dilloretto work work as well. (all side drafts) A weber 32/36 could be used on a custom manifold, that could be set up in the spare wheel well. Does the SU have oil in the top where the black lid is? It needs thin oil (machine oil or transmission oil) in there to make it work properly. good to see this being worked on TOONGA

sorry but that sounded like the muffler had a hole in it, kinda groovy if you want your subi to sound like a truck. The resonator removal will make your exhaust louder, but you then need to put a hotdog or turbo muffler, to stop your subaru from sounding like a dump truck. you are better off paying for something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/02-03-04-05-06-Suburu-Impreza-WRX-STI-3-Catback-Exhaust-System-/110956727695?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru&hash=item19d5894d8f&vxp=mtr of course find one to suit your model subaru. TOONGA

I have seen in factory workshop manual a code for a cat temp sensor, could that be what the other bung is for? TOONGA