LeoneTurbo

I can host it on http://www.leoneturbo.com no problems just email it to me.

If the car does not have cold-start issues I would not suspect the ignition system. I would guess low rpm hesitation could be more carburettor related... But then again, I'm no guru.

Very interesting. I must get one of those setups on my work bench aswell!

I think there only is a fuse...

And not worth it considering an EJ-swap as more reliable, more economical and more powerful alternative.

They are reliable, frugal and fun to drive. There have been some issues with a leaking sealant nozzle at the factory (which also affected USDM EJ257 engines) causing premature bearing failure - which are all covered under warranty. The first cars are reaching 75k-100k miles now and do just fine. GREAT ENGINE!

Nice work, nice wagon

OK another update. Last week I rebuilt the brake caliper and installed both on the car. I also modified the shift linkage and the transmission cross member they just have to be welded. I wanted to install the front drive shafts but found out I got the wrong EJ outer cups to fit the EA cage (25 splines fit the transmission but not the cage) so I ended up sending a pair of BE/BH Legacy shafts to be shortened (yup, cut and weld), expect them this week. As I got a box with nice parts from GeneralDisorder I continued with the dash (I got the pig tails for the older style cluster - which I like better than the later ones). Yesterday I spent the whole day to figure out how to wire in the new old cluster but it's done now and I also made the adapter loom between the ECU and the cluster (for CEL, speed sensor and tacho signal). This is what the car looks like now:

The main issue is that all Diesel cars are CAN-bus equiped... That makes the wiring a lot harder - if at all possible. However, a vintage Subaru with a modern boxer diesel is appealing. I still haven't made a final decision what engine I want in my 82 Hatch (de-stroked EJ20K turbo, n/a EJ22 DOHC and even EZ30R H6 have been on my mind) so if I run into a wrecked Diesel for the right price...

15066aa000 gasket-oil pump body 806945020 o ring 806718090 oil seal

Bolt pattern to tranny is the same as EJ transmission so that should not be the problem. You also need the ECU, sensors and wiring harness to come with the engine.

Some progress... I want to get the car up and running by the end of this month, but there's quite a list of things to do: - make crossmember for transmission - modify/fit gear linkage - make front exhaust pipe - have a stainless steel fuel tank made - install dash - install front axle shafts - rebuild one front brake caliper (one's already done) - install/modify hand brake That's about it

Today I collected my refurbished seats...

I have a spare 1985 parts catalogue for the Brat and Hatch. It's for European versions though but 90% of the part numbers are identical for US versions.

Some pics of the tank and wiring in the EA81 Wagon. The engine bay pictures are of my Legacy Wagon.

Engine output is about 10% less on LPG (however there are system which inject fluid LPG into the intake manifold which lower the temperature of the intake charge when the LPG evaporates which actually increases horsepower) and fuel consumption is about 20-30% higher (in litres). I usually get 8 km per litre of LPG (about 23-24 MPG) in my Legacy and with only a nett volume of 46L the range is about 370 km (my daily commute is 340 km). I hope to get better LPG mileage in my EA81 Wagon as the engine will run a higher compression ratio (LPG has higher octane level so no fears for knock) with ported heads and a less restrictive exhaust system without cats. Oh and less aggressive cams.

I have the system in my Legacy Wagon now with a small tank in the spare wheel well. I wanted a bigger tank in my EA81 Wagon for greater range so it will be in the luggage compartment. It's stripped down on a metal frame bolted to the chassis. From the gas tank there is a hard copper fuel line to the evaporator in the engine bay. The gas enters the evaporator, which is connected to the coolant system of the engine, in fluid state and is heated so it becomes in gaseous state. It then passes through and inline gas filter and goes to the LPG injectors. They are connected to the intake manifold via small hoses. The ECU of the LPG system cuts the petrol injectors and calculates the LPG injection time based on the injector input signal from the petrol ECU.

Slow progress but it's rolling now: The ride height at the back is too low, I will have to adjust it one or two notches on the torsion beam. Mind you, it's got a 90L LPG (liquified petroleum gas) fuel tank in the back, and no engine and interior yet.

Cheapest and easiest would be to either find a used EA81 engine to swap in or a good used crank and rebuild yours. There are many possibilities to make it into a (much) better all-rounder by performing an EJ-swap but that will cost more time, effort (and possibly money).

Some more progress today: Routing engine wiring loom in the engine bay Location of ECU in passenger footwell, youngest son watching with interest Installing the front 5-lug hubs Adjustable, custom made top mount installed Hoisting the EJ 5MT transmission into place, need to figure out how I want to fab a mount for it though...

Well I started off end of last summer, thought that a bit of welding and painting would be done before the end of the year But since this is my first restoration I was a bit wrong... I got the body back half way August this year so I just started work on it. I planned a lot in advance though like making sure I got all the parts I wanted to renew (as far as new stuff was still available). I'm now working on getting the brake- and fuel lines done. I want to get rid of the hill-holder and I also need a bigger return line for the EJ-conversion. I'm using the original return line as evap. Besides that I'm replacing all the suspension bushings. I have blasted and coated all the parts except the front cross member as it was still in good nick. The parts with bushings I couldn't get out or installed myself (I haven't got a press) I took to the local dealer and hope to get them back tomorrow. Then I can also get cracking on installing the Cross Bred Performance kit on the rear brakes for 5-lug conversion. Then there still is the EJ 5MT I need to get installed (making new mounts) and modify drive shaft and gear shift mechanism. Fortunately I already have a set of modified front axles for the late EJ-hubs I'm using.

If you want to participate in traffic on public roads safely I guess only a replacement subframe would be a solution...

Arriving home... Arriving home... Assembling the door and window mechanisms (note the new grommets)... After half a day of work (and a lot of muscle ache, weatherstrips are a pain to install even when some are new). Luckily I got help installing the grommets from my two sons...

You can order the light weight pistons at your local dealer: 12006AA340 for grade A and 12006AA350 for grade B. Piston rings are the same for all EJ18E engines (1989-1998). I'm using light weight high compression pistons (EJ16E) partnumbers 12006AA300 and 12006AA310 respectively. When you use these EJ16E pistons in an EJ18E block it takes the compression ratio up to 10.7:1. Regarding the flywheel, the revs perfectly drop on up shifts with the original flywheel and I don't really want to do any rev matching on up shifts.

I'm using the newer style pistons with coating and short skirt which are 74 gramms lighter - each! I'm also using Scat rods which are lighter also although I didn't weigh them. I have a light weight, steel pulley off a EJ16 which weighs 600 gramms. I guess I will just stick to the stock flywheel to keep driveability in traffic jams acceptable.