GLCraig

I plan on being there. But I need to start doing a rain dance. An inch or two that weekend would be most great

need to work on those picutres bud

Can you get both Steel and aluminum wheels???

A pump for an 81 is different then on an 84 so I have know Idea what one for an 81 would cost. I paid about $60 for mine.

Let's make things more simple On the CV end of the axle shaft there are the indentifications marks. The marks are about 1/4" wide and are a bit larger in diameter then the shaft. Note, reman and aftermarket axles may not have these. If the axle has 1 ID mark then it's a 2WD Non-Turbo, 3-AT or 5-Speed. 23 Spline. If the axle has 2 ID marks then it's 4WD Non-Turbo, 3-AT or 5-Speed or 2WD Turbo 3-AT. 23 Spline If it has 3 Marks then it's 4WD Turbo 5-Speed or 4EAT, 2WD Turbo 4EAT or 4WD non-Turbo 4EAT. 25 Spline

here ya go, but i'll warn ya, 78 parts are getting pretty hard to come by http://www.lithiasubaruoregoncity.com/index.cfm?action=parts

You have a PM

But I forgot to pick up a new set of filters while I was there

Yippie... The new fuel pump, for my GL, arived today:banana: Gotta love shiny new factory parts

for 83 and 84, only subarus with and automatic transmission got engines with hydralic lifters

Well the miss and stumble could just be the timing belts being off, from when you put the engine back together. Your coolant issue could be that you're not letting it burp all the air out of the system, these engines can be stubborn about that. Also make sure the thermostat is operating properly.

Did you forget that most Gen1 Legacys came with 14" wheels?

The grill is pretty much the same for all of the 3-doors, except the paint color, but the grey side moldings are a dead give away for a white RX.

Have you checked your local paper? In the classifieds, in one of the automotive sections you'll likely find adds from the local JDM importers. It won't hurt to give them a call.

I have a feeling that if the WRX was 4wd and not AWD it would not be a much of a problem.

Sorry to bust your bubble, but I have seen various gear breakage. First a little background. For about 4 years I worked at a local Subaru shop and one of my jobs was to scrap out broken transmissions and engines. To best of my memory I probably tore down over 50 subie trannies. The most common broken gear was the pinion gear that drives the front diff and they would often take the ring gear with them. The most common cause for this is down shifting, especially with EA71 trannies but I've seen it with EA81 and EA82 trannies as well. I've also seen a few stripped gears elsewhere in them as well. The worst I ever saw was actually from the front diff of a 3AT automatic. The pinion gear got so how that it literally turned to a semi liquid state. Chunks of the pinion were fused to the ring gear and what was left of the pinion looked more like an ice cream cone then a gear.

Under the dash, above the fuses there is a ground wire, check to see if it's tight.

It looks like the ones in the block are solid lifters and the one that's just sitting there looks like a hydraulic lifters. Take the one that's just sitting there and try pushing on it where the pushrod would sit in the cup moves. If you can see movement then it's a hydraulic lifter. Try it again with one of the lifters in the block if the cup doesn’t move then it's a solid lifer. Also could you take a pic of the pushrods that you have. If pretty obvious which are which (for solid lifer or for hydraulic lifers) by looking at them if you know what to look for.

It could very likely be one of the o-rings between the head and the cam tower, then again it could be a cam seal.

Hey I just got back from driving up that hill. It was no problem at all. Took 1st gear up to 4000k rpm shifted to 2nd until I was going about 30mph then went into 3rd and held speed until I got to the light at the 7-11. The Subaru I did this test in was an 84 GL without any mods.

The heads can be interchange but try to use 79? or later heads since they came with better valve spring retainers. Pushrod interchange depend on the lifters, you don't want to mix and match solid lifter pushrods with hydraulic lifter pushrods and vice verca.

Since you plan of replacing the timing belts, you should also replace the water pump, the cam seals, the oil pump seal and O-ring while you are at it. To do those individually requires that you take out timing belts.

Oh come on Caboobaroo, a budy of mine in college would drive from Klamath Falls OR to Cheyenne WY every other weekend to "visit" his girlfriend

yeah it's a pretty easy job to do yourself. Just be carful to route it correctly. I do have a stupid question though, Have you tried adjusting the cable?

okay, 1980 and 1981 ea81 models had the fuel pump in the engine compartment, SOA did sell a relocation kit for those years because of a vapor lock problem.