GLCraig

Fuel injected subies only have the one filter

Right now there are a couple of kits out there. One is designed by the Backyard Boys from Australia. Fortunately one of the board members manufactures the same kit with permission, his website is http://www.ozified.com/ . He has a FAQ section that goes into wheels and tires. Also Mudrat79 is also building kits of his own design. Here’s his website http://oregonoffroadsubaruclub.org/ Or you come to WCSS6 and find out all you need to know there.

Are you sure that it's the Carbon Monoxide that too high because CO is usually measure by a percentage of the exhaust vapor not in parts per million. Where as Hydrocarbons are usually measured in parts per million and a high HC number usually means a rich condition.

A simple continuity test with a DMM should tell you if the switch is good. Also test for power to the switch

your 76 shouldn't have any problems

Porbably not, since I've got an EJ22 from an 97 I'm having to use the Y-pipe for an single Port EJ22 which has 2 cats and I still have the original center pipe from my 94 which also has a cat.

My guess would be a clogged radiator. But you should try rulling out a bad reading from your gage. One way to see if the gage is in the ballpark is to let engine run while you're parked in the driveway. When the cooling fan for the radiator turns on the gage should be at or just above 1/2 way on the gage.

I took my Legacy in for the Emission test, it passed. I then wrote the check for $75.00 which covers the test $21 and the registration Fee $54. So I one 15min stop I got the test done and new registration. Just can't beat that. Oh the Resaults Idle 5 HC 0.00% CO 15.1% CO+CO2 2500RPM 13 0.19% 14.6% Standards 220MAX 1.00%MAX 6.0%MIN

Hello Well for starters a MAP sensor is a Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor. Now the Good news, your Subaru dose not have one. From the symptons you discribed, it sounds like you have a clogged-up primary circuit in the carburetor.

You need to have both front axles in working order to go in 2wd.

Use Dextron ATF, It sould also say that on the cap of the PS pump

You should be able to use SPFI cams but you should probably use SPFI cams on top of both head not just the broken side. Also If your XT is a turbo you maybe able to use Carb cams. For 85 and 86 the turbo EA82 used the same Cam as the Carb version

um.. wasn't 98 the last year that Subaru sold the impreza with only 2 doors and from then on you could only get a 4 door sedan or wagon.

It sound like cam case o-rings. There is one thing you need to remember. You have an EA82 engine and they were prone to leaking on the assembly line.

You'll need an adapter plate to make an EJ bolt up to an EA engine

go back to the tire shop and have the wheels rebalanced and checked for round out

Hmm tempting, If I remember right Baja knows the hills in that area pretty good. Maybe we could do some light trail running too.

Actually the 3doors did have a slightly different grill then the rest of the EA82.

The switch should turn the fan on at around 205F. Get a meet thermometer or simlar and stick it in the radiator and see what temp the coolant is when the fan turns on. Make sure the thermometer only touches the coolant and not the radiator or you may get faulse readings. It's possible that the sending unit or the gage maybe off.

Okay the FSM tells me the fan is rated at 12volts 120watts or less, So the Current would be 10amps or less at 12volts.The Switch should close at 95 +/- 2 degrees C and open at 91 +/- 2 degrees C

I don't know of any place to order the tube you need. But have you tried going to the muffler shop and seeing if they can bend up what you need?

It probably has the same ratios as the rest of the 81/82 DR 4 speeds. Which have a taller 3rd and 4th then the 83+ DR 4speeds

It depends on the chassis, If it's an EA71 in a EA81 chassis then yes. If it's an EA71 chassis then the mounts are different.

Yeah there are some EA71s and EA81s with hydraulic lifters out there. Begining in 85? all of the USDM EA71s and EA81 got hydraulic lifters. The first way to tell is to look at the valve cover for a sticker that says something along the lines of don't adjust the valves. After that you can pull the valve covers and look at the pushrods. The solid lifter engines will have aluminum pushrods with steel tips. Hydraulic lifter engines will have steel pushrods. Also the valve lash adjusters on Hydraulic lifter engines will have lock tabs on the jam nuts.

The only thing that thermo valve II controls is the choke break diaphragm