GLCraig

Since you have an 97 legacy, your speedo isn't cable driven. There's a speed sensor that screws in where the speedo cable use to. This sensor tells the ECU how fast the transmission is turning and the ECU in turn sends a signal to the speedo. This maybe a part of the issue why the TC will not lock up,

When did you win the lottery??? 2 months in Hawaii sounds pretty good.

Your Haynes manual is refering to the older EA engines about the flywheel.

They're cheap to buy, go ahead and replace them.

The intake and exhauset ports don't appear to be cracked. All I see in the ports are lines left over from the casting process.

how about Part #s for the off the shelf rears, please?

The PCV is a one possible cause, it could be a loose oil cap or it could be clogged PCV/breather hoses.

I was doing some work on my GL the other day and discovered that the upper bracket for the radiator had come loose from the tank on one side. I've done this repair before but I haven't read too much about it on the USMB or USRM. So I decited to do a little write-up and share some knowlege. It is a PDF file so you will need acrobat to read it. I think this covers everything. If the Moderators wish to add to the USRM please copy the file to a different server. My space is limited with comcast. http://home.comcast.net/~c.moe/radiator_repair.pdf.

Yep they have studs, 10mm if I remeber right.

The front main seal could leak like that. Also the oil pump has a 2 piece case, and the piece that goes against the block will crack really bad and cause some leaks. Be careful taking the pump out because you can crack that inner case in the process of removal.

it appears from those pic that the hub and rotor are one piece like on the new generation subarus

if you prep the surfaces correctly then you shouldn't need any gasket glue/RVT stuff.

Since the EJ series of engines use a larger wristpin you'll need to have some custom connecting rods machined too. Also there's a good chance that you'll have some major cooling issues. By boring the cylinders out that much you may end up going it the water jackets and restrict how much water can flow through the engine after you put in new sleeves.

Oh I used a Y-pipe from a 97 Legacy with an EJ22. It will bolt right up to a 1st gen midpipe and hanger. I plugged the second O2 sensor with an old O2 sensor and cut the wire off of it. There are 2 down sides when doing this. 1. You end up with 3 catalytic converters, since the OBDII y-pipes have 2 cats and an 1st Gen Mid pipe has 1. At some point I'm going to check and see if I can find a later Legacy midpipe that dosen't have a catalytic converters and see if it will bolt right in. 2. The OBD11 Y-pipe is between 1 and 2 inches longer so it shifts the midpipe and muffler back some. For the most part you won't notice this. I didn until I bolted on a trailer hitch. If I put a load on the engine for an extended peroid, the muffler will expand enough to rub the hitch.

When I put a 97 engine into my 94 I just swapped the longblock and kept the existing intake and engine management. I did that about 30k ago and it runs great.

Nope Subaru never made a locker. The closes you'll find is a rear limited slip.

It's just like how I showed you with your brat. You turn and push at the same time.

Measure the distance between the u-joints, if they are the same then the driveline is probably the same.

That sucks, I'm glad that the dealer I get my parts from, have parts counter people that have been working there since the 70's. The only problem with them now is the New ownership. Lithia Sucks as an ownership group. They will not let there part department stock items that they don't sell a specific quanity of them a month. So most of the Gen1 and Gen2 stuff needs to be ordered. The good news is the regonial warehouse is about 10-15 miles a away, so if you put your order in early enough in the day you can get the part in the evening or next day.

Dude don't get withing 10 feet without getting a tetanus shot

Run the RS wheels on one side and put the WRX wheels on the other. Then get some winter tires and do the same thing with the remaining 4 wheels.

There are not any zirc fittings on your subaru unless someone has replaced the U-joints with serviceable ones.

This is a pretty simple one. First Rotate the crank over until you find the 3 cam timing marks on the flywheel. Line up the middle one with the pointer. Now you need to rotate one of the cam gears (it dosen't matter which one) until the pointer(the tiny little hole) is straight up (0*). There is a groove in the inner timing belt cover that you can use to line up too. Now go over to the other cam gear, rotate it until the pointer is straight down (180*). You should be all lined up at this point.

It sounds like your ignition module is going bad. When it won't fire, do you see the needle on the Tac moving up and down a tiny bit? It not then it's likely the module of the wiring to it. I'm actually having the same problem with my 84GL but it's not a daily driver so I'm holding of on fixing the problem.

The swap you're planning to do isn't that bad of one at all. I would recromend just swapping the longblock and reuse the intake, carburetor and distributor form the 81 that you have, those items are different on an 84. Also a 84 engine will have on each exhause port a piece of the emission system that you do not need and you will need to get them off before your Y-pipe will bolt to the engine correctly.