Vegablade

There is quite a few of us based in the Skagit County area.

Getting closer to being done for this years West Coast Subaru Show!

I will be there!

I used one of the Blue Sea fuse blocks and wired a large 8 guage wire to it behind a resettable fuse. From there i used relays for the larger items like fans and lights. I wire loomed all of the wires and zip tied them to the body so they don't get caught on things and then use heat shrink tubing on all of the connectors. This is sans the fan wire harness.

Did you cut your springs at all?

Albie has 33" boggers on a 4" lift and I believe a EJ20T. Don't ask me how.

Got some more done today.

That's quite the drive. Coming to the West Coast Subaru Show?

Also this is currently being designed and mocked up.

They must not have cared then. I don't even bother letting them touch my car. I had them mount and balance. I can do the rest.

Scott in Bellingham at sjrlift.com makes them.

Bought a 6 lug swap kit and bought Toyota wheels.

Yeah that's where I got mine done. But then again mine aren't drilled. Thanks its my favorite to!

There is not really any sort of set guide on what works. There is so much variation between different setups it would be hard to say what works without trying it. The pathfinder wheels might work but would depend on how much offset they have. Do you not want to trim or bash at all?

...No they did not. They wont even touch a car that is six lug swapped or drilled. If you are looking for wheels your only option is Peugeot 14 or 15" wheels in 4x140mm, but they are pretty rare these days. Or you can drill a set of 6 lug wheels.

Yes, cut the shaft in half and then weld a new section in or sleeve it. I have my subframe dropped 4 inches and with a properly built joint it should be stronger than stock. Not sure about the outback joint, looks like its supposed to work with a 2" subframe drop.

It all depends on what type of lift you are getting. If you only get strut top spacers then you will not need a linkage extension as the crossmember is staying in its stock location. This will cause your axles to be pushed down 2" over the stock configuration. Yes it will lead to a faster wear time and some added stress. If you get strut tops and cross member blocks your axles will remain at the correct stock angles but you will need a linkage extension to make up the difference. I ran my car with a 2" lift for about 8000 miles and broke a few axles. Then again i purposly didnt drop the crossmember to gain as much ground clearance as possible for offroad. Street Car and light offroad - 2" Struts and Crossmember and possibly diff drop Heavy Offroad - 2" Struts only, or larger lift.

Pretty much your only choices for all terrains are 27x8.5x14 General Grabber AT2 - Cheaper, but larger and not sure about fit on a 5.5 rim. Its below recommendation. or 195/75/14 BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO - Smaller, less trimming and bashing or possibly none at all. More expensive. Says it fits on a 5-6" wide rim. Even with a 15 or 16" rim you are pretty limited in choices of offroad type small tires.

You will want to look into something along the lines of Dodge D50 or stock Toyota steel wheels if you want to keep close to stock offset (Maybe some old Chevy pickup rims). They will probably stick out a little as I am not sure if anything had the same high positive offset that stock wheels do. The more positive offset the more you will have to trim to make up for the increased swing of the tires. You will just have to get out there and see what they have available. Not sure about you guys up north but wheels should be easy to find, tires that small will probably be a lot harder. Good luck.

Its the nature of how the FWD works when lifted. Especially when you have the sway bar removed. Mine are cut at 17º and it still lifts pretty bad when i get on it. You can leave it in 4WD or just accelerate slower. You already have accord springs which probably helps a little. Like Skylar said, I don't think there is a real good solution besides a transfer case and running it in 2WD rear.

I can't remember off the top of my head but don't the top and bottom plates have to offset to clear? Stole This From Scott

Looks really good!

I would vote this. Assuming this is an EA81, I had the exact same problem with my BRAT motor.

I know Me, Jeff and Rick usually meet at Jeffs house and roll down. Not sure if anyone else is coming with us. Once we get closer to the date I'm sure we will have a better idea of schedule. I still have lots to do.

It depends on how much offset your wheels have. I have 27x8.5x14 bighorns on my 4" lifted BRAT with lots of negative offset and they rub in the front when turning. As for power you will notice a loss and your gearing will no longer be as low as it was with stock tires. I also ran these on my GL for quite a while with a 2" and could cruise pretty easily on the highway but had to downshift into 4th to pull large hills.