[HTi]Johnson

I'd suggest getting the head gaskets from http://www.rockauto.com they are the felpro perma torque for $20 each. 9392PT is the part number. Don't forget the seals the go between the cam cas and the head. They look like this: Look here for all the parts that you want to get that don't need to be OEM. As for OEM parts, I have never used an OEM part. I've done HGs, Oil Pans, Valve covers, Intake, turbo, exhaust, oil pump reseal, you name it. I have never had a problem. This was all on my wagon that I put over 40k miles on after all the work, no leaks. Maybe I was lucky, or just did the install right.

My friend had bad play in his distributor that caused the rotor to hit the points in the cap and snap...it dislodged it and would let it "fire" at times. Maybe you ran out of gas? These gas gauges aren't the most reliable.

Ethanol needs 9:1 air ratio to be "efficient" and gas needs 14.7:1. That's the stoichiometric AFRs. So if your car thinks it's using gas, it's going to mix the ethanol at 14.7:1. As stated before, it'll make your car run lean unless you adjust for it. Carbs can re-jet, fuel injection ...well you gotta hack the computer or just Megasquirt it.

Datsun 510's ?

HAH HAH And you still choose to drive a justy! NICE! What's that saying about those other cars?! Nice work with the Justy. If I was you, I'd get full coverage insurance on that baby. I've heard too many stories about people busting their asses on restoring cars and then having some jackass crash into them, totalling the car, and the insurance only gives them the "Going Rate" of the car.

Is there any part of it sticking out? If so, I'd suggest trying to get it out that way.

Maybe a weak fuel pump. You said that you can go until you hit 35-40, maybe the fuel pump isn't filling the bowl up enough? Replacing the filter just reduced the stress on the fuel pump for a little while. That's my theory.

I believe carb blocks have higher compression, this may make it weaker. I do know that turbos have the lowest and SPFI I believe have the highest.

:headbang:

You'll need this when you put the timing belts back on. You should replace everything you can and can afford to. LIke clutch (if it's manual), rear main seal, front main seal, cam seals, oil pan gasket, water pump (if you don't know how old it is), oil pump (or at least reseal), timing belts, and timing idlers. If you are on a budget, just do the intake gaskets (many say use dealer bought), head gaskets (many have good luck with the fel-pro 9392t here they are less than $20. You could order all your parts from them), you may be able to get away with re-using the exhaust gaskets. Rockauto.com has some very competitive prices, but it may not be worth it to buy only 1 or two parts. Oh yeah, there is an oil seal between the head and camcase. That is a VERY important seal , without replacing that with the OEM one, your valves will probably tap like mad. There is one on both sides. The part number is 13089AA010. You should be able to order these from the dealer for about $3 each. The haynes manual or Chiltons, is pretty good with How-to's for taking the engine apart and reassembling, the part Haynes is confusing about is the timing, that's why I sent you that link for "How to install timing belts". Good luck and don't be scared to ask questions during your project! -Justin

Those idle RPMs are perfect, according to the factory specs. Everyone has their opinions.

The only time I've had the turbo flange break off the up pipe is when I did not have the downpipe secured to the transmission where the stock Down pipe does.

Here's a direct replacement for $12 + shipping tho.

If you were leaking exhaust before the turbo, that will make it "doggy" and the dealer said you had loose exhaust studs that needed repair, right? Because the turbo needs all the exhaust it can get to spool and produce boost, if the exhaust was going elsewhere, the turbo wouldn't spool,as much, then it won't produce boost that won't trigger switch, which means no boost light. You should get a boost gauge. Either one you install or just one as a tool and hook it up to one of your boost lines on the intake. You'll probably need a T connection for that. Almost any line straight off the intake would work, just make sure you put it back to normal. Your boost should be about 7.5psi under complete load. It won't read much if you are in neutral, not going anywhere. With Subarus, 9 times out of 10, it's the easy fix.

Yeah I always thought that you'd want bigger after the turbo, because the turbo is the thing that's causing back pressure, and everything after is just for convenience or sound sanity!

Try this EDIT:Maybe not, those are rebuilts, I, for some reason, thought they were new

You look here yet?

Check the fuel pump fuses. You're supposed to hope for the easiest fix;).

Just keep a spare belt with ya. If the one you have breaks, put the other one on and don't use AC until you fix that idler pulley, which should removable without taking anything else off (ask someone on the board...I actually think I have one, I'll look or look at the junkyards). Or you could keep buying new belts .

You shouldn't need the AAV, I was thinking the IAC.

You shouldn't have to remove the distributor. If I remember right, You can disconnect the fuel lines, undo the vapor canister clamp and one heater line hose and the upper radiator hose, and maybe one vaccuum line that's on the passenger side. It's not as hard as it sounds. Then you should be able to tilt it back to the fire wall and work.

Still won't start? Do you have the rotor (of the distributor) in the right position? It could be 180' off. And did you make sure that the harness to the distributor was connected nice and snug?

Did you put the timing belts on right? At the valve timing mark, not the ignition marks and with the cam pulleys with one mark up, one down? Like this

HAH HAH HAH! That's mean dude! You're supposed to keep enough of the rope sticking out so you can pull it out. Maybe do it at Top dead center? So you don't bend an exhaust valve?

I've never had luck with "Easy outs/ reverse drills" they always break in the hole and cause a bigger problem.