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[HTi]Johnson

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Everything posted by [HTi]Johnson

  1. I thought you connect the green connectors for timing or "safe" mode and the black ones to retrieve saved codes, and both of them to clear the codes?
  2. Hello, it depends. If it was a pressure plate, or anything attached to the crank, like flywheel, pressure plate, or even a pulley, it would vibrate with engine RPM. THe more RPMS, the worse the vibration. How's the drivability? Like: Does it drive better or as good a it use to, accelerate the same? Does the engine shake real bad at idle? I'm asking these because, with the engine replacement there is a lot of variables. Like timing belts that were put on wrong, distibutor not correctly timed, or firing order is off. If your engine shakes a lot while idling, I'd first check the plug wire order and then the timing. And if you could tell us the year of your 'Ru, that'll help a lot too. And, last thing, how Subaru inclined is your mechanic? Hope it's something simple, Justin Johnson.
  3. when you say "boost" you mean average or peak? Because my stock setup does 8psi with WOT. And can you take pictures of the o ringed engine?
  4. Most people would say "Weberize it" I'm surprised no one has. Maybe I just did, But I don't deal with Carbs anymore (not by choice, I want my 1983 GL Green Wagon back!). You could fuel inject it with an SPFI swap. Search for it if interested.
  5. They're just jealous that their Trucks don't have them! And it's not like the brat seats are a dime a dozen, compared to the nissan injectors, and all those honda parts.
  6. SOrry to bug you, but I still can't send messages. But here's what I was going to send
  7. Your mail box is full!!! Where did you get your adapter plate for your weber?
  8. BASTARDS! ANd they make fun of Subarus. Screw them.
  9. That thing would have to sping HELLA fast to even come close to a turbo...what was it like 100,000RPMs? It more then likely will have drag on your car. But, hey, if you want try it, do it, tell us how it goes. My .02 cents Justin Johnson
  10. Good point, about the catylitic converters. Get under there and try to shake the Y-pipe and see if you hear any rattling, or even take the exhaust off and try to shake it with the ends pointing down, and see if anything falls out. I've had Cats just break a part and cause blockage.
  11. What about the coolant temp sensor? It is located to the top left of the throttle body, it's in the block. Rear ....x O==[]==O
  12. what grade are the head bolts, and what type of steel? just your common steel, heat treated? Thanks, I tried searching, maybe I just missed it.
  13. Look what you started LEET. GD, I know what you mean about that whole walmart gauge shiz, what a PITA. I am looking for a digital one, they seem to be pricey though. Any ideas?
  14. Timing? Timing belts? Maybe you broke the passenger's side?
  15. UGH, it not my money, I agree.
  16. How about he gets a more dependable/accurate oil pressure gauge and then reassess the oil pump.
  17. 3 hours or so....remove the radiator.
  18. You just need to take the convertor off and pull that stub out and twist it a little and push it in, semi-hard (don't use any hitting tools ) It'll go in.
  19. Yes, as long as you connect the black connectors.
  20. Yeah, either replace or reseal the oil pump. When you take it out...look at it for scarring on the pieces...if it looks good, a reseal would suffice, you can get a kit at Napa. While your in there you can repack the Tensioners as GD recommended and replace the timing belts, or buy this Good Luck.
  21. check timing. How about your timing belts? There are two, and the passenger side could break and the engine would run, just rough. Does it "rock" back and forth pretty hard?
  22. only $180 for them all and like $45 shipped! NICE!
  23. My first thought is a ground wire.
  24. try www.ebay.com and www.thepartsbin.com

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