hooziewhatsit

*I believe* that both the EGR and PCS solenoids will click with the greens connected. So you should probably verify that each are clicking, and that you're not hearing just one of them.

One of my friends has that same one. Isn't finished though...

Does your speedo work? If so the VSS (33) is a bogus code. Connect the green test connectors, turn the key to on, and listen for the PCS clicking under the hood. If it doesn't click, it's bad :/ Neutral switch, not sure how to test that. I'd say connect the green connectors and go for a drive. That will make the ECU check everything again. The CEL will go on after a few minutes. If it blinks, everything is good. If it comes on solid, find a place to pull over and read the new codes.

Mine does that also:confused: It would start then die immediately. have you tried starting it while moving the disty around? I had the timing at 0* TDC on my wifes 91 loyale after I replaced the disty once. It ran, but made popping sounds after revving it up. since you have the timing belt covers off, to make sure the disty is in correctly, crank the engine over by hand so that the dot on the passenger side cam is pointing due north-west. At that point the rotor should be pointing straight to the #1 plug wire.

I did the same thing... got a couple different sets that didn't work. I even got a set with the same part # as listed in this thread :/ I would advise anyone hoping to get speed bleeders that you take your current bleeder valve in with you and verify that they're the same size.

the flexplate that your automatic has does have the three timing marks on it. Just crank the engine over slowly by hand and you'll see them in the little window on top of the bellhousing. I can't offer much help for the bolt on the turbo... I had a similar one that caused me grief... Once I got the bolt out, the exhaust off, etc, I replaced that stud with a new one, and haven't had nearly as much trouble since :/ for the timing belts, just take them off. If you're doing the HGs you'll end up moving almost everything that keeps it in time. Trying to keep everything in the same place is going to be PITA. Just do a search for the timing belt procedure when you go to put it all back together. May want to get some new belts/tensioners while you're in there, unless you know they're fairly new. good luck,

correct, the flywheel holes are keyed. Make sure you have _all_ the holes lined up before starting to bolt it on (ask how I know) I prefer to put the cam towers on with no valves compressed. Then I put the three screws mostly back in the cam, and use a screwdriver to pry on them to get the cam into the correct position for doing the timing. (if that makes any sense)

when installing the cam towers, it's MUCH easier if the key pin is straight up. At that point none of the valves are compressed (IIRC), so you just slap the cam tower on, and don't have to worry about letting the rockers fall off/stay aligned. Look at it before you put them on and you'll see what I mean

If you grounded the negative side of the coil it should be fine. That's how it makes a spark. If you grounded the positive side.... I'd check fusible links, fuses, etc. Have you verified that the negative side of the coil gets pulled to ground while cranking the engine over?

silly question, but have you made sure all the lights work? These circuits are sensitive to that, and will 'freak out' if a bulb or two are burned out. just an idea...

I think that most people that get them a tooth off report back saying it ran like garbage. Feel free to try though

Also, these autos are very picky about the quality & quantity of fluid in them. First thing I would do is change it and see what happens. Made a world of difference in my turbo 3AT.

I've had luck pulling a spark plug and shoving some nylon (or other non-fibrous) rope in the cylinder. Works for tightening the crank pulley as well.

This almost sounds to me like a stripped/mostly stripped hub. To test this, either take off the hubcap and watch the axle nut or look through the engine bay at the axle/half-shaft. With the e-brake on, have a partner try to drive the car. If the axle turns, the hub is bad.

thanks for the replies guys, I thought about digitizing the tapes... until she mentioned that she has LOTR on tape She was also hoping to stay around $100 or less. I have found a Pyle? single din deck that looks like it should work for a little bit more money. As to the double din decks, I believe they are 4 inches tall... and the gap for the stereo is, 4 inches tall... so it would be a squeeze. I was already going to help her purchase it (she doesn't have much money) and may just go with the single din to make it easier. thanks again

if, with no power applied, you can blow through the solenoid, then yes, I guess the valve would be open all the time.

I tried searching, but 'double din*' doesn't exactly bring up the stuff I needed :-\ Anyways, a friend of mine would like to get a stereo with CD and cassette, so she can listen to her books on tape. She also wouldn't mind one with MP3 capabilities also. I found a double-din stereo for $90 that she likes, but I'm not sure if it will fit. It's a LEGACY LCDCS93MP http://bsless.com/lcdcs92.html I measured the hole in the dash, and it will be a very very tight fit, if at all. So, I'd like some feedback as to whether or not anyone else has pulled this off. The car is an '87 GL wagon. thanks,

The error referes to the solenoid, not the valve. It has no way of telling if the solenoid actually activated or not. To that end, some people have replaced the solenoid with a 50-100ohm 10W resistor just to make their CEL turn off. The most common failure for the EGR solenoid is the connection inside the solenoid either shorts or breaks open. Therefore, when the computer tries to engage it, it does not get the desired response. To test this find an ohm-meter and measure the resistance between the two terminals. It should be around 35ish ohms. The other not so common problems are either a break/short in the wiring harness to it, or a blown trace inside the computer.

he probably means by squeezing the heater core line with his hand. The other method I've used with success is to find a way to get the nose of the car as high up in the air as you can, and let it run for a little while. This can either be done by driving up a small hill, parking on ramps, etc. This is my preferred method to bleed the cooling system after doing a flush also.

all you need to know about codes: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/USRM2/mick-usrm/electrical/ecucodes.html basically, you should have a set of green connectors and white connectors under the hood by the fuel filter. You want to connect the white ones to read the stored codes. The 5 flashes (or 6 or 7 or...) depend on the vehicle, transmission type, CA car or not... basically an ECU ID thing. Also means there aren't any codes (if you have the white's connected, I think).

to check the passenger side, the electric fan comes off with 4 bolts, then you have much more room to remove the cover. Usually don't even have to unplug the fan, the lead should be long enough to just set it out of the way. For the driver side, I would just check to see if the rotor spins or not. I would do that first, since it's easiest and you don't have to remove anything else.

IIRC, you may be able to remove the rubber intake boot and get access to it with a long screwdriver. That will only work though if the hose clamp is pointing the right direction (not likely, but something to keep in mind when you put it back together). I believe I used fuel line when I was putting the intake back on after doing some HGs. A coolant hose that seemed like it should (had the right bend in it) was just slightly too big, and I didn't want to bother going back later to replace it. Don't panic too much, just start moving things around and you should find a way to get at it without removing the intake manifold.

did he just twist the disty to adjust it, or take it out and put it back in? At least with the SPFI EA82s to make sure the disty is in the right position... -take off the passenger side tbelt cover, -crank it around by hand until the 'dot' on the cam points north-west (straight up being north) -At this point, the disty should be pointing right at the #1 plug wire on the distributor cap. I presume this procedure is the same for a carbed EA82.

a flood light set to turn on when they touch the car would be slick. I wouldn't think it would be too hard to find an alarm system that activates 'something' when you touch the car, and modify it to turn on your lights. Would want a timer of course to turn it off after a while. Would also make it a lot easier to find the right key at night

instructions? Does it just 'pop' out then snap back into place? My roof has been noisy since my 180# brother decided to see if it would hold him up I bet that rubberized coating stuff probably helps cut down on road noise a lot also... hmm... like someone said.. you've got me thinking again, and that's not good for my wallet :-P