hooziewhatsit

To make it easier to put the cam tower on, spin the camshaft so the key is straight up. That will put it in a postition where none of the rockers are being depressed. Much easier to align and bolt together then. -Dave

Make sure you secure the engine somehow. IIRC, it wants to fall forwards after you take the transmission out. It may not with all the fuel lines and other stuff hooked. Just don't want to punch a hole in your radiator. -Dave

www.1stsubaruparts.com Just give them the part number from earlier in the thread. -Dave

Also make sure that the hose to the overflow tank isn't plugged.

Have you checked all of the fusable links? Pulled them off, then put them back on to make sure the connection is good? -Dave

You shouldn't need to move the AC compressor at all. Only time I've had to move it was when I pulled the engine. But for t-belts and seals, nope, don't need to move it. -Dave

just to double-check, here's the timing order (haven't seen it posted yet) 1, 3, 2, 4 transmission 3 4 1 2 front bumper #1 on the distributor cap should be nearest the brake master cylinder. Rotor then spins CCW. Also make sure the rotor moves when you crank the car. If it doesn't, your drivers side timing belt decided to blow (just happened to me). -Dave

If you get the vacuum lines to the diaphram hooked up backwards, it just means the switch will work backwards. In that case, just switch them around again. IIRC, vacuum from the vacuum canistor should split into two lines, go into the solenoids, then off to the diaphram. Start at the source and see how far the vacuum makes it. -Dave

In theory, the hill-holder should release after you have barely let out the clutch, and before the clutch starts to grab. Find a hill you can sit on safely, engage the hill-holder, then slowly let out just the clutch so you can see where the HH disengages, and where you start to roll backwards. It sounds to me like it needs to be adjusted, since it appears that it's holding the HH much too long. If the clutch starts to grab, and yet it's still holding the HH, I'd say the cable needs to be adjusted -Dave

Too late. Ohwell, I'll be back later -Dave

ahh, ok. Didn't know there was that much difference between FI & carb. Guess I'll call them again tomorrow and get a new quote. Thanks, -Dave

Thanks for the replies. I found a thread from Russ about replacing the bushing. If I can get it apart I'll see if I can go that route. Not much else to lose at this point. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54746 <cue 'The more you know' music> Good to know I can remove the drive gear and pull the shaft out. -Dave

I have an 85 EA82, carbed, automatic, with wayyy too much play in the distributor shaft. Got another disty from the junkyard that felt fine until it drove for a while. Now it has slop in it also. GD has mentioned the Philbin Group in portland can rebuild them for ~$50. I just called them, and they quoted me $245 Anyone know of somewhere else to get it rebuilt? Thanks, -Dave

To get rid of the moisture, a hair dryer should work, as would putting the entire housing in an oven at ~200* for a while. Personally I've had luck facing the car towards the sun (in the summer) and pulling the bulb out for a few days :cool: -Dave

also, connect the green test connectors under the hood and turn the key to on (not start). You should hear the fuel pump click on/off in 1 second intervals along with some solenoids under the hood. No fuel pump, no start

hmm, just played with that for a few minutes, and searching with the + didn't return any different results than without them. I've found the most relevant links are usually at the bottom of the page under a thread. So if you find a similar thread while searching, be sure to look down there also. -Dave

nice! My 88 GL just crossed 198k. Going for 200k and the summer before I put my 2.2 in. I really like the blue color you chose for the car. :thumbsup: -Dave

if it's coming from the sides it could be the cam seals. From the middle could be the front main. On my BILs loyale one of the cam seals was so loose I could just grab and pull it out Needless to say, once I replaced the seal it stopped losing as much oil. -Dave

During the summer I'd measure the temps on my engine at around 190*F, ie, just right. Since it's been cold here (20's), I only measured ~160* in the same places as before. Last time I filled up I barely got 20mpg Granted that's around town in 4WD.... I'm planning to either remove the clutch fan, or block off some of the radiator. Not sure which I'll do yet... In theory the thermostat should keep the internal cooling loop at the proper temperature, if it opens & closes quickly enough. -Dave

That looks normal compared to my 91 loyale. My 88 GL however is normal 1/8" from Hot. Check it with an accurate gauge. Infrared no-touch thermometers work well. No real way to be sure otherwise. Since it's been cold out, my 88 has been running around 160*, rather than the 190* I measured the rest of the year. I'll probably take the mechanical fan out today before it snows again. -Dave

Nothing missing, just gently hit it harder I've had to use a wonder bar to get one out. I was surprised how hard it was stuck. -Dave

I now know two things about my 91 loyale. - The low fuel light does not work - The useable fuel tank capacity is 15.1 gallons, not the rated 16 gallons for the tank -Dave

yep, before you pull the dash apart to get to the switch, check the relay. Had a friends car with charred contacts causing the fan to not work. Note that I Would measure 12v at the plug to the fan, it just couldn't carry any current due to the bad connection at the relay. -Dave

The disk inside the disty has two different sets of slots; one with 360 slots, for each degree, and 4 very large slots for each cylinder, I believe. So, I think the two remaining wires will have those two signals on them. Putting a meter in AC mode should read those signals just fine. -Dave

The SOA part# for the PCV valve is 11810AA000. I believe they call it an 'air control valve'. First time I tried to order the valve, I got the plastic T in the hose system... -Dave