erik litchy

the xt6 clutch what you have now?

front toe is -.15° yeah those castor rods are hard to find... more money to spend when im going to spend it on the EJ swap

eh im not sure the socket will work if the grooves are now worn. edit if you were closer id let you borrow my socket

NGK copper in my subaru im trying NGK copper in my jeep stroker but they have a very short life. about a year before the electrode is worn out. tried a colder heat range and same result. still runs better than any autolite or champions. what do you think guys? this is about 8000 miles worth of wear. -1 heat range from stock

how do you feel now?

293 at the wheels is no joke. how do the swaybars help i tried a few setups and found mine works best with no bar in front, and a small one in back.

so i have this old nitrous system have a guess how its hooked up? no idea. id like to change it to a wet setup, as cheap as possible. give me some resources to read and learn about this kind of thing. a book is best. yes i dont know what im doing and would LOVE to change that i found the instructions here http://www.zex.com/Base/Instructions/ZEX109.pdf seems not to be compatible with the subaru fuel regulator anyway

wow arcade mode! why so many idiot lights?

so what happened? did a blown headgasket contaminate the oil?

you sure the MAF sensor is giving a good signal? and it also might be a clogged cat

i swear if i had a nickel for every time i missed third becasue of the weird feeling in that gate.... no play in 5th though

i think the manfold will run too cold, its not meant to have fuel in it-it would likely pool in the runners.

yes if the timing belt is wrong the engine will obviously crank wrong. i would suspect ignition, clean the plugs, check the wires, check all grounds.

my car has the original charge, what happens is the belt slips and the computer turns it off so it doesnt wear out the belt. so either tighten the belts or change them.

it looks more like a LE car than a jutsy to me. i dont see were you guys get this. maybe some ford fiesta mixed in

a visual aid woud be nice

better you than me. ive had ENOUGH

we did notice the rear bushings had more give in them than expected. i hate changing bushings edit is this an example of a bad one? i always waited until they cracked or deformed...

i dont know about you but my car keeps the undercoating "fresh" the bottom is like new but shinier

i need some caps for the snowflakes

ok the front is good we went for -.5° camber in front, and were left with 1.7° caster, not much! but the rear gave us problems. right side AFTER .25° toe 0.4° camber left side after -.20° toe .0° camber this is not in spec! we used up all the adjustment to get this far, the baseline was really bad.

did they play the theme from once upon a time in the west at the start?

check the throttle position sensor with an ohmmeter. check the Idle Air Control Valve for dirt

so i have an alignment in about an hour i have cameber pates and RX springs. otherwise my loyale is stock what specs should i ask them to align to?

have it connected and it doesnt really help. this car is light enough that it doesnt slip backwards with a lot of momentum. it seems more of a marketing gimick to me. i think a really good candadite would be a pickup truck 1/2 ton or larger. get a decent trailer on there and you will be extra careful pulling out without one.