el_freddo

I’d set it up as an aux Fawcett pump to transfer fuel from the aux tank to the main tank. Far simpler than trying to run a second high pressure pump and work out valves/relays to switch fuel lines to avoid back feeding and sort out the redirection of the returning fuel (unless you run a deadhead setup with zero fuel return). This sort of thing is something I want to do with my brumby under the tray behind the cab where there’s a decent cavity.

The fix for a sloppy gear stick/shifter is cut a slot in about 20mm approx, parallel to the shaft’s location. Make the width a few mm at least. Do this on each side of that bracket. Then drill out the hole on the bracket while on the shaft so both are done at the same time. Shove a bolt in it with a metal lock nut, tighten the living daylights out of it and you’re done. If the gear stick is still sloppy but in a different way, you need to replace the bush on the bottom of it, the one that sits in a cup on top of the gearbox. Access this via the cab with console etc removed. I’m yet to do this, I was told a bit of garden hose over the end of the gear stick placed back in the bush does the trick. Well done on sorting out the running issue! There must be something in the mix on the old setup that does something that the charcoal canister does now.

How many miles on it? And what’s the service interval for the timing chain? Easiest way to determine whether your suspicions are on the right track is to do a compression test. If there’s a cam timing issue I’d expect one bank to be far lower than the other. If a chain let go, I’d expect some sort of grinding/crunching noise of the broken chain and spinning components when cranking the engine over. If the chain is intact, it could be a tensioner let the timing chain skip some teeth. Either way, if this is the issue, I see some very un fun times ahead. Last thought: check the cam sensor and rule out that there are any issues there. Cam timing sensor is used for spark and injector pulses from my understanding. This could change the engine tone/noise when trying to start. All the best

Awesome trips as usual. Still loving your pics of creatures in your environment. It baffles me how many ppl head out bush and don’t look at what’s around them, especially the small animals! Good to hear both vehicles went well for you! Interesting about that auto input shaft snapping, not seen that before!

What revs was the engine doing at each of these readings, and same gear/load? That could tell you a lot about what’s going on in your engine.

True. On the flip side I’d rather a known fact that it’s NON-interference than a bet that it is. I’m 99% sure the last non interference engine Subaru produced was the gen1 EJ22E. The Gen2 EJ22E used roller rockers that helped bump the compression ratio for better power but the downside was the engine became an interference engine. Since the H6 is chain driven, interference or non-interference shouldn’t be an issue unless you’re trying to settle a pissing competition between you and a mate.

I’ll put my bet in for interference. But chain timing rather than rubber belt cam timing, so something needs to be pretty catastrophic for valves to hit pistons in this engine - anything is possible though!

^ this. although this thread seems like it’s missing the original post/question…

They slow you down bushy tails?

I usually go by the shape of the wiring as this is something that’s never changed in my brumby. Someone on here will know for sure. I can check it out thoroughly in a few days and report back if it’s not urgent.

A mate of mine here in Oz swapped over to the newer tensioner style with its backing plate recently. Far easier to get replacement tensioners than finding the original style. All the best with your search!

There could be two leaking sources of coolant. I’d test again after that gasket is fitted on the throttle body before adding coolant. The other issue could be the O ring in the block between the two case halves is corroded and leaking - I reckon that’s a long shot but who knows. Cracks in the head are more likely than that ^ and they will usually occur between the valves and head down the exhaust port as they become worse. Once really bad these cracks will dump all the coolant into the exhaust on cool down. Not your issue here though. I wonder if you can use a bore scope in each spark plug hole to look around the cylinder and the combustion chamber when you have coolant in the cooling system - with air pressure at the radiator (if possible) to “load up” the cooling system and hopefully exposing the coolant leak.

I had a “problem” with my first and last EA82 rebuild - turns out we missed the bit where you fit one cam belt then rotate the crank one revolution and fit the second cam belt. When the crank is lined up one cam will be at 12 o’clock and the other will be at 6 o’clock. This is the key to EA82 timing belt alignment - don’t miss that crank rotation between fitting belts!

^ driving to the trip meter, that’s always fun!

Brat/Brumby/MY - yes, I agree it’s a common problem. L series - never seen or heard of this issue before with one of them. @scoobydube - make sure the clutch cable isn’t doing any sharp corners that will make it work hard. What do you replace your clutch cables with - second hand OEM/new aftermarket?