el_freddo

Yeah true. I've been there with this - but it won't go well with my AWD gearbox... This is the main reason why I want a selectable locker - and as for breaking the same things that's why you carry spares Plus you wouldn't be wheeling with the selectable locker locked all the time, I'd be using it only when I need to! Cheers Bennie

Best of luck with that. They'd probably want a down payment from everyone that sends in the mass email to get the thing into production. This way when no one puts in the money for the unit ARB are not out of pocket due to an organised mass email to pressure them. I've emailed them on several occasions and eventually got the reply that the r160 carrier is simply too small to make a locker with. Personally I think this is BS and that was their way of politely saying go get f'd... It can be done, there's a mob over here (McNamara diffs) that will do it - if there is an order of 500 units for $AU1000 each! There is also a little something in the pipe line from one of the ausubi members... it might be 6 months to a year off though as the first unit needs to be fabricated, fitted and tested before production begins for the rest of us. Cheers Bennie

^ Which generally means that they're not coming at all That said the new Nissan Navara apparently has a factory locker in the rear as an option. The rear diff is based on the R180.... Cheers Bennie

It's not hard to wire in the EJ alternator to the L series wiring. This is how I did mine when I did the conversion, no ECU reference wire either: This is for the series 1 and 2 alternators of the Gen 1 Liberty/Legacy. Hope this helps. Cheers Bennie

Only when you tried to use the clutch, otherwise it was rather easy! Yeah after it let go it made some pretty bad noises when you tried to take off again (starting in 1st), we got it going but changing to second gear resulted in some really nasty noises and vibrations! Good times... but couldn't have happened at a worse time other than 4wd'n my way out of a sticky situation Cheers Bennie

I've just read this whole thread but can't remember the reason for you using the auto other than the fact that your foz is already an auto... I say this as over here I've had the pleasure of knowing two subi's that have the H6 conversion, both are manual. I've heard many say go the EJ20G over the H6 as the H6 is gutless. What they don't realise is that they're running around in a factory auto H6 outback... These manual H6's are the duck's nuts! They have ample power on tap at any time you need it. I was blown away! Anyway, here's a write up of one of the fellas who did the conversion. Both vehicles ironically came from the same work shop at different times and have ended up in Victoria from interstate. Lucky me I reckon you'll get a pot load more from this engine if you mate it with a manual... My 2c that I thought I'd share with you, it is a conversion after all! *edit* also with the rack from the donor vehicle that has the plug that you broke, if it is salvageable this rack is one that gives you slightly heavier steering at speed to reduce floating from the power steering feel becoming very light. If you could shoe horn this into the foz it would another feature that I reckon you'd love. You'd probably have to change the rack and tie rod ends for it to work, simple really! Cheers Bennie

Or a dodgy spark plug/lead that's not holding its own at idle, making the other three plugs do the work... Cheers Bennie

Drop a resonator or "hot dog" in the middle of the exhaust, this should get rid of the resonation you're hearing in the cab at cruise. I'm thinking of going from this oval resonator (left of pic after the flexi joint): To something more like this for *hopefully* a "cleaner" and slightly deeper note as well as something more streamline so less to catch on under the subi but in the 2.25 inch category so it'll line up with my exhaust diametre In my latest news with Ruby Scoo, I lost the use of my clutch pedal due to something inside the bellhousing. Drove it for ~300km by rev matching before the pressure plate did this: Only took 18 months and about 50,000km for this to happen... Hopefully the next one will last longer! Parts are on their way, just waiting on post, then I'll be able to get it out of a mate's shed where I feel it's in their way as they're doing me a huge favour letting me use their space! Cheers Bennie

I've heard of the older diesels doing this to bring the new diesel fuels we have over here more inline with what the engine was designed for in the first place. With all of these new electronic injected diesel engines on the market the fuel has changed to meet demand with no regard for the older style engines that still needs something that's less refined. Apparently the 2 stoke oil added in does the trick... Cheers Bennie

Ah, sorry mate, totally didn't pick up on that one! Hope all's well! On the subject of your loyal - you know it never ends! I love the way your subi is looking! And I wish I could get mine engineered for the same over here, I've got the setup, just not the engineering certificate Cheers Bennie

It could be the front seal on the gearbox. I hope not! The rear main seal is much easier to replace. The clutch plate might be soaked in oil making it pointless to re-use it without at least burning the oil out of the pad then hoping for the best. Cheers Bennie

EA81 with an O2 sensor?? Unless it's a turbo unit I doubt it! Or did you get this setup for the californian market? You mention shifting gears yet also ask about flushing the Auto trans fluid... What have you got, an auto or a manual? Without a compression check I would say that the engine is just very tired - blue smoke indicates blow by and thus low compression, possibly on all four pots. As for the oil leaks - the subaru engines are great for making a small oil leak in the rocker covers OR the oil pump look like a major leak or a rear main seal that's gone. I'd pull the oil pump, clean it up, reseal all the necessary components and replace it. Wash the underside of the engine and see what happens with the oil deposits over the next week or two. Do the compression check, this will tell us a lot about the health of your EA81 in general. Cheers Bennie

Subaruby over on ausubi has one in the rear of his MY - it's an unlocker similar to the detroit, a short run that were made by a rally mob over in Australia I believe. Either way they're worth their weight in gold and no one makes them anymore It is an r160 too. Probably doesn't work the best with AWD though. Could work for some, a lot of effort! But for me it's not going to work as I'm going to be running AWD for better traction in all situations. I've enquired with McNamara Diff's in Melbourne. Yes they can do it not a problem... IF WE HAD 500 ORDERS OF $1000 A UNIT!!! Then it would be simple after all the crap of gathering the half a million from 500 members to get it happening! Then there's postage etc to deal with... I'd love to do it, but I just don't have that money lying around and can't find 500 members with $AU1000 to hand over for the unit. I could probably find 500 members who are keen but once it comes to putting the money up everyone backs out as usual Cheers Bennie

The crown wheel would need a little bit shaved off regardless of what casings were used to house the diff... You should be able to work out what needs to be messed with and what should be left alone... Cheers Bennie

Hey all, Still after the info on whether 91RON is acceptable to use with these cams - I can't see why not. Another thing I was thinking of - do I need to get the followers re-faced or just run with them as they are? Cheers Bennie

And Australia Looking good on the repair works... Just don't go hitting anything with that corner!! Or anything anywhere for that matter! Cheers Bennie

If you ever look at upgrading to a dual range gearbox PM me as I'm keen on the push button gear knob, the vacuum diaphragm on the gearbox and the vacuum solenoids on the driver's strut tower Good looking L! Cheers Bennie

That's pretty important in a build - as much as it gets in the way! As for the L series 5 speed from this ausubi thread it is longer than the EJ 5spd dual range by 65mm or there abouts... Cheers Bennie

WTF?! So what's going on? Stolen? Impounded?? I know you've got me anxious for you and your subi, even though I don't know what it is I'm already thinking the worst I hope it's a simple case of paying pound fees and she's all yours again and not a stolen/burnt situation - that would break my heart as well. I'm praying to the subi gods for a safe (undamaged) return of the safari wagon! Bennie

That's looking totally awesome! Top effort... you should be proud! Cheers Bennie

And it saves heaps on fuel and energy used for driving! I'm saving about 1L per hundred km on cruise compared to using the foot... Cheers Bennie

PM taza on ausubi for his foz VIN, but I think that's a 2001 model, still the 2L that you're after though. What I think they mean by "they do not interchange" is "We're just covering our arses so nothing gets put back on us" as we all know the subarus are like lego. You just have to know what bits you need and what bits you need to swap out to match the first bits you need Clear as mud?? Cheers Bennie

Yeah if you don't have the proper equipment or a mate that's got the gear, then it'll be a difficult process. I'll get on to a mate who's done it before, I've only read about it and know that it needs to be done for these final ratios with the L series low range. When you drop it all in it's pretty apparent what needs work done... Yes it would - case internals are pretty much the exact same for the front cases. There's a couple of differences such as the low range light which I forgot to mention The EJ use the selector fork to trigger the low range light via a switch that is mounted directly above the fork - the fork has a tab on it to push the button. The other real difference is the bellhousing design for the different stud pattern. The only real downer about this is that you have to use the adaptor plate and worst of all the EA clutch setup - which should probably be beefed up = more $$$s needed... Cheers Bennie

Thanks GD, that's great to know! Cheers Bennie

Yes but if it is outside the adjustable area then it won't work... everything has a limit, I want to be within the limiting area, not outside it! Cheers Bennie