el_freddo

Maybe a bad ignition switch. Could be some bad earths or a dying fusible link.

That’s a standard tube on just about every charcoal canister. The Gen1 Liberty has the same sort of setup too. Did that sensor end up solving you passing your smog test @Craigar? Cheers Bennie

Nope. You’re all good. One cam is operating valves when you line up the timing belt. The pistons are half way up the cylinders so valves etc can’t hit. Cheers Bennie

22680AA160 is the part number. Drop the F. I didn’t think there were different AFMs for manual vs auto. My EJ22 converted L series runs that part with its EJ22E. It his is a Gen1 engine and management system. The other number on the AFM below the part number is 2X21D on a green and silver label - it’s a five pin plug with all pins present in a plastic housing. My ECU has a “G” on it from memory. I hope this helps! Cheers Bennie

AFAIK a timing kit is a timin kit. Just make sure you get a phase 1 or phase 2 kit as needed - and ensure you’re getting the correct tensioner design as they swapped in the phase 1 era and ran with that tensioner ever since. When you reconnect the battery and start the engine you shouldn’t touch the throttle - the ECU will change engine speeds as it works out it’s idle. I believe this is set as the engine comes up to full running temp. If it’s still stalling at times something else is at play. Clear and check codes again. If the fuel pump wasn’t replaced also consider this could be the issue. When a fuel pump dies it can do it randomly then start again, or it could completely dies. Also stale fuel can be problematic with getting the engine started. If it’s really bad you will smell a varnish like smell from the exhaust. Other thought with the poor idle is a sticky idle air control valve. Could be worth pulling and cleaning up. Do not remove the top cap as that’s the idle set from factory. Apparently you can adjust this once the engine is up to full temp to set the engine idle speed - but it typically doesn’t need to be touched. That’s all I can come up with - I hope some of it at the least is useful! Cheers Bennie

Got a part number on it to cross reference?

So pull the steering column out if it’s going to save you pulling the whole dashboard out. That could work. Still a huge effort. Cheers Bennie

^ agreed. At most, do the head gaskets and move on with the conversion. Definitely do a cam belt kit including all front seals and check the torque on the screws that hold the backing plate on the oil pump. Some would say leave the rear main seal, I say replace it while you have easy access. Reseal the air oil separator plate and swap it for a metal one if it’s plastic. Enjoy the conversion. It’s a good process to learn about and the result is awesome, I think you’ll love it. Cheers Bennie

No harm in trying a new coil. Having spark is positive. That voltage regulator pump too much into the system will kill things so it’s worth getting that sorted before anything else new is swapped in. Cheers Bennie

Bit late to the party, I don’t usually check this far down the forum home page! I’ve got my ECU controlling the fans in my EJ22 converted L series and it works a treat. Actually, I’ve got a three way switch that intercepts the ECU trigger wire so that I can choose to have ECU controlled, off (river crossings) and ON (sand or hard work). Had it this way for well over 10 years! All the ON switch does is provide a solid earth connection to trigger the relay for the thermo fans. Cheers Bennie

Azdave, the PS pump mounts beside the AC compressor. You would need a different set of fan belts to run the pump, otherwise everything else remains as it is. It’s been too long for me to remember how the EA82 PS pump mounted to the block exactly. You should be able to get a complete kit and fit it to your L series. The PS rack will use the same mounts as the manual rack. I can’t remember if there’s any differences in the rack ends between PS and manual racks, again, been a long time since I had a manual rack in an L series. Cheers Bennie

Points or electronic ignition? Electronic ignition modules can die from time to time. But sometimes they die because the coil dies and takes out the ignition module with it. If it’s a points system, check that they’re working as they should and that they’re correctly gapped. I don’t know what that inch measurement is, nor do I know what is the tolerance for the shaft play. If shaft play was an issue in the dizzy, you’d experience other frustrating running issues such as inconsistent running, and probably an idle that’s all over the shop too. Hopefully this helps. Cheers Bennie

That’s a standard 13 inch tyre size for our brats/brumby?? They look awesome! Hoping we might be able to get them over here some day! Mind you, I’ll be looking at road based treads for my brumby with the next set of tyres I get. I love that comparison with the Tonka Toy 4wd, classic! Your beast could probably go just as far as that toy with a rear locker. Cheers Bennie

Those kits aren’t cheap to get complete these days either Gazza - if you can find one! Last I saw was a set that went for $au1G! That’s nuts. Shove some braided lines on and you won’t believe the braking feel compared to what you had originally. I say my brumby with discs all round and braided lines has better brake feel than a 2000 EJ251 RX Liberty with slotted front rotors! Well worth the effort! Cheers Bennie

What an adventure! I’m not entirely sure how the leaf spring but you like that, either way not good! The build is looking good! What tyres are they? I’m not sure if they’ll be available over here, I’m keeping an eye out as I’ll need a new set of tyres for my lifted L once the five stud conversion is completed. Keep up the good work! Looks like you’ve still got a lot of work to do with the door cards being out of the vehicle atm. Cheers Bennie

Ensure you have all the bolts out. It should tap apart with a little bit of effort after this. Some times having the block sitting with the cylinders vertical and tapping the top half upwards can work well. I’ve pulled an EA82 and EJ block or two apart, but not the EA81 specifically. Double check there’s not a bolt missed as this will stuff you up big time and then lock will never split. Cheers Bennie

Two things come to mind for me - first was the EFI pump dampener is dead or non existent. Or the pump itself is not performing properly. The other thought - and it’s a bit of a long shot - is the coolant temp sensor doing some funny stuff. It starts ok? Here’s another thought - these have a knock sensor? It could be on the way out or picking up something else that’s not detonation, holding power back. Cheers Bennie

Ah bugger mate! Epic thread dig though, I reckon this one is a record! I hope you found the info you were looking for. Cheers Bennie

You could try using some rust buster in the bores - this might free up the engine once all cylinders are done. Hammerbarn stocks the product of that name. It’s good stuff! Cheers Bennie

One of these usually does the job for me. A bit fiddly setting it up and getting the right angle for it to work best on, otherwise it’s the first thing I go for! https://www.repco.com.au/tools-equipment/automotive-tools/engine-drivetrain-service-tools/mechpro-red-valve-spring-compressor-mpst135/p/A9400120?rgfeed=true&cid=google-shopping&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&region_id=100245&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAC9C92i3cTaz1a0-V0xqSruda0Yl6&gclid=CjwKCAiAneK8BhAVEiwAoy2HYaj0UcKxCd10d6BEEWlaRVPPl-sNAEkiDo4ePdzXnmsgX350epdpXBoCUDIQAvD_BwE On special at the moment too by the look of it. Just make sure it’s big enough to put the head inside the “G” bit to clamp either end of the valve setup. The pic doesn’t give an idea of size however it’s the exact design of the one I steal from my dad when I need it. Cheers Bennie

If there’s play in the throttle shaft you can usually find this by physically wiggling the shaft with your finger or gently levering against it with a screw driver. Any lateral movement tells you there’s play in the shaft. Otherwise I could be some grit, or a burr on the shaft, butterfly or a frey in the cable that sits in the throttle linkage round piece (clear as mud I know, I can’t think of a name for it). Or there could be a missing/broken/stretched spring that’s not applying its full pressure on the throttle shaft to properly close it. At least you have a lead at this point in time! Cheers Bennie

No, but you might feel it slightly sometimes when reversing. I believe there’s something in the device that uses gravity to activate the hill holder. If facing down hill it won’t hold the brakes on - and it seems to only act on one part of the system. EG: brakes the front left and rear right or vice versa. Pretty sure it’s the FL and RR circuit that’s used. Cheers Bennie

You’d be right in assuming that! As Moosen’s said, allow a bit of play - then test it out, you should have the hill holder let go just as the clutch takes up some bite. You don’t want the clutch to be fighting the hill holder (too tight). Test, adjust, test etc until you’re happy with how it behaves/feels when you use it. Looser is better than tighter - you’ll learn how to drive with how you adjust it. I disabled mine in my L series - had too many sketchy situations when reversing down steep hills I didn’t make it up. I just live without it and don’t really notice any difference really (my brumby didn’t get one so they’re basically the same to drive in that regard). Cheers Bennie

Cam and crank sensors aren’t hard wired into the harness, at least for the Gen1 series2, they’re independent of the engine harness, connecting to another part of the harness on the bellhousing (or near it) and disappearing into the firewall. On RHS vehicles this part of the harness pops out on the RHS of the firewall. Cheers Bennie

Checked the rear wheel bearings? Ensure the handbrake is released to check for any unwanted bearing play with the wheel in their air. If the handbrake is on this will hold the hub in tight and you won’t be physically strong enough to wiggle the wheel enough to overcome the hold of the handbrake. Cheers Bennie