AdventureSubaru

Flywheels should be the same. I put the flywheel from a 99 2.5 onto a 96 2.2 with no issue. it's the flex plates that I know are different between the 2.2 and 2.5.

Not sure if i've seen a good writeup for 4eat. It's very straightforward though. That "Stop transmission from crashing to the floor" is about the only tricky part. These are big and heavy compared to a 5mt. Renting or buying a transmission jack can make that a breeze. Harbor Freight sells one pretty cheap. But I've used ratchet straps, come along and junk tires in conjunction to do the job without one. Scissor jacks and wood blocks help. You just get to be more creative. On reinstall just make sure to seat the torque converter properly so you don't crush the pump. There's a good writeup on that on this board.

Welcome! Nice looking car. And rare to find a rust free one in the midwest! Used to live out that direction until a little over a year ago. Miss it a lot. If you're planning on romping in the snow, do a few searches on here. Outback or Forester struts and springs can be bolted to your car with no modification for a few inches of lift and to clear bigger tires so you don't get stuck when the snow gets deep.

Welcome! 96 legacy will fit just fine. The two possible differences are #1. Exhaust manifold on the legacy may be single port (96 was the year they changed) in which case just swap the y pipe with the motor. #2. Final drive ratio of the transmission may be different - in which case you swap the rear differential from the legacy as well. Search the transmission code of both the impreza and the legacy to see. (Sticker just in front of the starter) 3.90, 4.11 and 4.44 I think are the options for the 4EAT. if the same, they will interchange 100%. If different the trans and rear differential need to be moved as a det or your transmission will get in a fight with your differential and bad things will happen.

yeah. there's an easy fix if the EGR doesn't match. Your 95 is the ideal motor for a swap. it's OBDII so you can put it in any 95-98 (and some 99) cars without having to swap the intake manifold. It's dual port exhaust so it bolts right up where a bad 2.5 used to live. An it's non interference in case anything ever happens to your timing belt. The 98 sounds good. If it's a 2.2 it will be single port exhaust so you'll have to swap your Y pipe to match your motor. But yep, Your motor can go in any 90-98 Legacy or Impreza with little to no modification necessary/ 96-99 Outbacks are my preference since you get the extra suspension/ground clearance and extra goodies that Outbacks came with. And they were outfitted with that troublesome DOHC 2.5 that blew headgaskets all the time so you can usually find one. Swap in a good 2.2 for a bulletproof combo.

or a member here in lancaster is selling his wagon dirt cheap. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/149757-97-legacy-gt-wagon-in-lancaster-pa/

Easy fix. Check if there are any EA82 cars in the Redding Pick n pull. $30. for a used spindle and you're ready to go.

Yup. If I were you I'd hold onto the car for parts. Search craigslist Allentown, Reading, Lancaster, Philadelphia etc for a 96-99 Outback with a good body with a bad 2.5. usually easily had for $300-$1000. if you're not in a rush. I've done a few of these swaps and the 2.2 bolts right in and wont give you the head gasket woes.Takes about 4 solid hours for a swap. A little more if it's your first but can be done with basic tools. I have a 96 outback in the garage right now doing the same swap. Do that and you'll have the ideal setup - non rusty outback with a non interference 2.2

If you end up needing any smaller stuff (Motor mounts, flywheel, heads, hoses, sensors etc.) let me know. I have an 06 H6 that I suspect threw a rod sitting in my garage. All good stuff apart from the block and cracked timing cover. Or find a good block and make a good motor cheap. Sounds like a great project. I've seen pictures of your Baja and it's very impressive already. My wife drives an 06 LL Bean edition and there is WAY more power from that H6. Her H6 with an automatic is night and day to my 2.5 and manual and in general I know the manual trans feels less sluggish than an auto.

If it's not the same, it will be very close. Should serve its purpose just fine. Subaru changed the style but not much of the side between 94 and 95.

if I'm remembering right it should be 10mm socket for the battery terminals and 12mm for the ground/starter. Bring 14mm and a set of vice grips just in case. Always better to be extra prepared.

Yep. wires follow similarly to the o2 sensor. Easily missed.

You're worrying too much. A 91 legacy is one of the most reliable cars put together. If the mechanic comes back and says the motor is blown - sell the car. If he quotes you $200. for the sensor, politely decline and send me a message and I'll mail you one of the half dozen or so spares in my garage at cost of shipping. If it's a fuel pump, timing belt or igniter etc. you're looking at simple fixes under $50. To gain more info, check for flashes with the key (simple search will show how. It takes no work.) If you're unsure about anything. Just ask on here. Lots of good folks are very willing to help/ I guess I don't understand why you would buy a non running car if you're willing to throw in the towel so easily when a no-start is generally a cheap and simple fix. No need for heated garages. I've done timing belts and the like in the snow, mud, dark and 2 Denny's parking lots. (Both fun stories) These cars are easy to work on.

Timing belt is a piece of cake on a 91 legacy. Takes about 2 hours for a beginner.

For a 98 Outback 2.2 look for 96-98 2.2s from Legacy and Impreza to be an exact match (OBDII and single port exhaust) 96 is ideal because it was still non interference vs 97 and 98 If you're willing to swap your exhaust y pipe 95 will work just fine since it is also OBDII 1990-1994 will work if you swap y pipe and your intake manifold to make it OBDII A secondary consideration is if it is EGR equipped or not. It will run fine but throw a check engine code if it doesn't match. 94 and earlier were non egr. 95 + it mostly came with and auto transmission equipped car.

Did you already do the suspension lift? I've heard 1 inch on the outback spacers. If you need exact, I can go measure since I have one sitting in the driveway. It's not rocket science for the spacers. Get some steel in the thickness you want and drill holes to match the subframe. Look at some pictures of EA82 lift kits if you don't have a picture in your head.

Take a closed wrench or drill two holes through a piece of steel. Bolt one side to the outside of the block and the other to your flywheel so it can't spin.

Any chance you filled the wrong tube? 4EATs have a tube on the drivers side for transmission fluid (Kinda hidden by the air box.) and a dipstick on the passenger side for gear oil for the frond differential. (Not as hidden) If you drained the ATF but filled the diff then you're trying to drive about 3 quarts+ low on trans fluid. It's happened many times. You wouldn't be the first. If so, fill it up. Drain the ATF from the gear oil and refill with fresh gear oil. Then drive. No biggie.

I've heard Thule makes a better rack than yakima but this is hearsay from people I trust and not first hand. You can always get a stock rack from a junkyard. Subie racks are pretty useful. Mine are put to use on a weekly basis.

Yep. Go for it. The front tabs may need to be bent slightly with a pair of vice grips to sit flush but otherwise good to go.

2000-2004 fronts work just fine but not the rears. 98-04 Forester will give you just a little more lift if you want it. front and back are bolt in.

If it has an EJ25 (If its an Outback or Legacy GT - Bigger dual overhead cam motor with great power but known for head gasket trouble) it's a good deal. You may again run into the head gaskets leaking, but you can get several good years out of it most likely if the recent job was done right. If/when that happens a junkyard 2.2 motor is easy to swap in for better reliability. If it has the EJ22 - smaller but supremely reliable motor (Regular Legacy base, L etc.) it is a fantastic deal. Those motors go to 300,000+ regularly and are very easy to maintain and work on. Based on your description I would have no hesitation in that deal. Good reliability. Good winter capability. Cheap price. And you said great condition. Go for it! Then come back, post up pics and start enjoying the car.

Someone will want the tow hitch. You'd probably make at least double your money pulling it and putting it on Ebay.

Alignment helps but wont necessarily overcome a tweaked body. Body shops can pull bent stuff straight again. cutting and welding is a cheap option if you can do it right. If it's not off by a lot, the worst case scenario is that it will eat through tires faster than others. I used to feed my old off roading toyota truck a slow and steady diet of used junkyard 31x10.50-15 tires since it was permanently out of alignment. Went through a junkyard set about once a year but that was with heavy use. If it still drives without trying to run you into a ditch etc, it's not beaten yet. Do you have any pics of where things are bent?

many of the 2000-04 outbacks and legacy GTs had heated. Direct bolt in for earlier cars. Also - DO NOT install heaters into a seat not designed for them. Learned that lesson the hard way when I worked for a dealership. An upholstery shop had patched a torn seat cover in a VW GTI and I picked it up form them and drove it home on a cold winter day. Turned on the heated seat. 5 minutes later I smelled smoke about the same time I felt a burning sensation on my rear. Burned a hole in the fabric and scorched my pants! Apparently only certain fabrics and materials are compatible.