AdventureSubaru

Epic pair of wagons right there. Doesn't get more iconic than that duo!

Gen 2 legacy Baja!

Bout time I saw someone take one of these for an offroad romp. When I was in oregon, I parked next to one and while the bumpers stick out a bit more, the rear diff hangs at almost exactly the same height as my lifted impreza. They seem like very capable trail rigs. Looks like fun!

has anyone swapped short blocks before to know for sure? I'd be willing to tackle the job if I know it can be done. But none of these motors are cheap.

Long story short, I'm getting an 06 legacy for my wife. It's in good shape but has a blown EZ30 in it. I have not done any work on an H6 before. From what I'm researching only the 2005-2007 motors are a simple swap in. The 2001-2004 motors are a bit cheaper and common to find. Are these documented anywhere as swaps into the 05+ body style? Ditto to the good ole' EJ25. How difficult would it be to downgrade a tad and put a more familiar motor in there? (EJ25s being way more plentiful) All else fails, I'll need some tips on differences between swapping the H6 vs. an EJ motor (which I've done a few times.)

Duct tape or similar rolled sticky side out on your hand. Just pat the carpet and lift up the hair. It takes a few rolls of tape, but it's the best I know.

Local pick N pull yielded a Uhaul hitch for $25. and a near new set of brake pads during a half off sale for $.99 each! Rock Auto supplied other goodies. Got new speedo sensor so i know how fast I'm going. Oil filters at $1.60 each! Gear for mounting the hitch. It's in. 3500 pound capacity. It's pretty beefy.

Yeah, most people report the aftermarket ones failing rather quickly.

ever get word on whether its a phase 1 or phase 2 trans?

used to work for a car dealership. They give squat for trade ins. You'll get more out of a private sale with a bad motor than trading it in with a good motor. Dealers only buy at a price in which they can make $$$ by selling the car wholesale. Usually they just send it to an auction and make sure that they come away with $500-$1000 profit. Either fix it to drive it/sell locally or sell it locally as is, but upping trade in value on a 15 year old car will be a waste of time and money.

there should be some info on here about the lowest stock setup. (All my research was for lifted subarus) a few searches should get you on the right track.

Pick n pulls should have good cheap options. If you find a car that was in an accident the safe assumption is that it drove itself there. These transmissions are pretty durable so a used replacement is a good option.

Just sent a PM.

I am a few hours north and am looking for a good Subaru to fix for my wife to drive. I'd be interested, and if not me, someone would buy it to fix it and drive. It's probably worth more that way than selling it to a junkyard.

Keep eyes open on craigslist for some good used ones. Those old Sears X-Cargo cartop carriers were well made and keep your stuff dry. they look a little dated but I've seen them as cheap as $20. I think most of them bolted to the stock roof rack.

Yeah, personal items that aren't part of the car are yours. So if you kept a toolkit etc in the back. Even the manual if you want it.

Not aware of a chart, but I think the 2000-04/05ish only came in 2 gear ratios. The 4.44 was foresters and outbacks - 4.11 was legacy/impreza as best I know. Here's the thread from a few years ago that educated me. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/124712-about-to-do-my-first-4eat-swap-have-a-few-questions/?hl=4eat We ended up swapping a forester trans in and it is still driving to this day. If you can confirm that yours is a 4.11 you should be safe with a trans out of any 2000-04 Legacy. I'd take each trans as a case by case basis and try and look up the ratio of each trans code just to be sure. Or just swap a matching rear diff and not worry about it.

I'd make sure to come armed with printouts of KBB and NADA values on your car so you have credible reference points to argue if your claims adjuster tries to short change you.

You can probably buy it back for around $300. give or take. Keep the good motor and you can make your money back parting the rest of the car out. Or keep it and find a good body with a blown EJ25 and swap in your good motor. after the check the insurance company writes you can come out well ahead, not counting the hassle of it all. Glad you're ok.

Failing alternator was my thought. Easy enough to test. Start the car, disconnect the battery, turn on the defrost. It the engine quits, you likely found the culprit.

If they share the same bolt pattern you should have no trouble

brat is looking good. Didn't notice that you are right next door to me. I head down to moss landing every couple weeks for either fishing or cheap fruit/veggies.

Bill still active on here? or does someone have his contact info around?

Probably no reason not to do the clutch. Pretty cheap kits on Ebay and rock auto. Exedy is the preferred brand. I've put a couple cheap Banhof clutches in on 3 cars and had no problems but none are tested beyond 20,000 miles so far. Here's a great pictoral and write up of the how-to of it. It's pretty dummy proof following the steps and pictures in there. http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t128163-diy-clutch-replacement-pictorial.html That write up was my reference for all 3 swaps. It's really about a 15 minute job since you have the trans out already. Better to do it now than to kick yourself in another 10,000 miles if the clutch starts slipping and have to pull the trans all over again.

Wowie! Haven't seen that before.