Carl B.

Yeah longer studs are available. I wanted to put those warnings in there so some fool doesn't do this and loose a wheel and kill someone. The SAE recommends you have a minimum thread engagement of the diameter of the wheel stud. So on most Subies thats 12mm.

1991 Loyale Wagon 4WD EJ swap push button trans ~3" lift 235/75r15 on Forester steel wheels and more ground clearance than most trucks. "Trailhawk" stripe on the hood

Here is a cheap and easy way to gain clearance for wider tires on your Subie. These come out to about 8mm (5/16"). As with any wheel spacer only use them if you have long enough wheel studs to safely mount your wheels. Go to your local Subaru or import mechanic and ask for trashed brake rotors. You should be able to get them for free. Then cut out the front of the hub, clean up with a grinder, slide spacer on, and remount your wheels. *ONLY USE WHEEL SPACERS IF YOU HAVE LONG ENOUGH WHEEL STUDS*

Finally finished my skid plate thats been sitting under my work bench for months. Its 2' wide and covers almost all the way back to the catalytic converter. Now I just need tires, thinking 27x8.5r14 or 235/75/15. Maybe more lift too.

Made a cargo tray mat out of a large door mat from Home Depot. Its super tough, made of recycled tires, and only $20. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Apache-Mills-Black-60-in-x-36-in-Commercial-Recycled-Rubber-Outdoor-Mat-60-060-9501-30000500/100671756 I trimmed it down a little more since this pic so it sit flatter.

I made a bumper out of 11ga 1.5" tubing last night. Its welded to the lower radiator core support and the frame rails, damned sturdy! I used a 2"x4" piece of 1/8" on the center mounts and the outer mounts are 11ga rectangle tubing bolted then welded where the stock bumper mounted.

Best thing to carry, AAA card. For daily driving I also carry a small tool kit, first aid kit, jumper cables, and a tow strap. If I'm going camping or on a trip I bring a lot more depending on weather, geography, etc. As far as alternators and timing belts; those aren't things that just fail out of the blue (meaning if you have 100k+ miles on a timing belt you should expect to be replacing it soon). Nor are they the kind of things I'd want to fix in a parking lot or side of the road. I see no need to carry that kind of stuff when you can get towed home, order it from NAPA, and fix it in the relative comfort of you garage or drive way the next day.

I've used www.engineshipping.com Shipped a complete but disassembled Harley Davidson about 660lbs for $300. In crate identical to the one pictured above which was about $40 for material.

Hey I'm just trying to help. I read through all pages, and you have double checked everything you touched during the reseal. Also Gloyale has verified that your harness is good and your maf is bad. I would assume you fixed that already. Do you have a multimeter and a test light? My next step would be to test the crank sensor, cam sensor, and throttle sensor.

It will start with no o2 but not run reasonably with out the front o2. It sounds to me like an issue with the front o2, causing the engine to run open loop, i.e. rich. In bratman18's case very rich if the oil is getting saturated with fuel.

I had this exact problem when I first did my swap. It was the front o2 sensor harness. I tried a new o2 harness and it fixed the problem. This is obd2 correct? With the "big plug" o2?

Tat2Brat, check out car-part.com there are 100s of listings for ej struts and springs at junkyards within 30 miles of tacoma.

Good point wagonist, I had interference with the strut and strut tower when I tried lower more than about 2". If you want to go lower than that when 5 lugged I would recommend coilovers or sleeves.

In my opinion me that doesn't sound like an accurate way to determine what spring you need. First I recommend you determine what ride height you want. Then get a strut that has compatible dimensions. After that you will need to get a spring that is about twice as long as the stroke of the strut you chose. Eibach has a very good calculator to help you find the ideal spring. http://eibach.com/america/en/motorsport/products/suspension-worksheet

Ibreakstuff, I put aftermarket camber bolts in when I had the forester struts. I did the crossmember mod today and think that was the biggest help. Well it was a 14 hour day but I got it all sorted out. Did crossmember mod, wheel bearings, brake pads, two axle boots, urethane bushings front/rear. When I put it back together I maxed out the camber bolts and have approx. 2* negative camber. I need to get it in to an alignment shop this week. Also anyone interested in urethane bushing upgrade here is a thread that has some useful part numbers http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/127926-more-caster-and-camber/ Its a huge improvement, but measure the dimensions of your front control arm before ordering parts. The front control arm bushings on my 91 Loyale are the same size as the rear.

Also, anyone done the cross member washer mod? I have seen two pics from Nicos build and from presslab, but it looks like they moved the hole in opposite directions. I assume Nico was after less negative camber because his car is lowered and presslab was looking to get the opposite result.

So I have had my loyale five luged for about 3 years, the first two years it was lowered on coil overs and I had no alignment issues at all. Just had to shorten the tie rod ends for proper toe settings. Earlier this year I lifted it up about 2" higher than stock, using forester front struts and had crazy positive camber. I then tried impreza front struts, a little lower, but still can't adjust out the positive camber. Is this common? What have you done to fix this? I'm considering doing the washer mod to the front cross member this weekend but would like to know if there is an easier solution. the pics are to shadowy to see the camber but I thought I'd attach the anyways.

@subynut, I can't really tell the brace is there unless I'm looking at it, but I haven't had a chance to push the car hard since its been installed.

No didn't sell. I got at least 30 tire kickers though. Making a skid plate and a rear strut brace out of scrap also. I'll post pics when installed.

$0 strut tower brace because RallyX car Built a strut tower brace out of some scrap metal.

I'm in Boulder and have a 1/2" cross member drop if you want. Used it on my 2" lift that I just removed today.

^Exactly what KiwiGL said. Cut out all the rust first and use etching primer on any bare shinny metal. Look for a primer with zinc chromate, will be yellow to greenish color.

You could try swapping them side to side.

I see you still have the ea82 fuel pressure regulators in the fuel line. The ej should have a fuel pressure regulator in the fuel rail. Not sure but that could be an issue.

Sorry about giving you the wrong color code for VSS. One thing I do know is when mine was tapped in at the optional cruise control connector the ECU did not like the signal. It caused the engine to go into safe mode intermittently, approx 50% of the time it wouldn't rev past 4400rpm. also since your obdII check this out: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AulzhoggZfFGdFZVbjladjJKaWFqX0swSEdHR2xCNHc#gid=0 he says the obdII can have problems with 12V VSS signal