jmoss5723

Got it. That's easy enough.

I've always wanted to crack one of these open anyways. Maybe I'll get my chance!

Thank you, but I suppose I should have been more clear. I meant how the tranny mounts to the car, not to the engine.

I was hoping I could do it cheaper with an EA series trans. I know where I might be able get one cheaply.

Are the transmission mounts in the same locations on the EA and EJ series trannies? What modifications, if any needed to be made in that respect?

I'm considering putting a dual-range 5-speed transmission from an EA series car into my 2004 5-speed NA Forester. I know it's been done and I know there are some threads about it, but I'm just looking for some general thoughts on the idea. Good idea? Bad idea? Is the engine going to be too much for the transmission in the long-run? I might ask for some how-to info later, but for now I'm just toying with the idea.

Do you have any complete EA82 engines in good shape? I have a friend who needs one.

This has been kicking around on Pittsburgh's CL for a while: http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/pts/4297138551.html Not mine, but I thought that maybe it'll help you.

Dump some seafoam in the gas. It might not solve your problem, but it'll be good for clearing up any varnish.

I know a guy who once mentioned an all-subaru yard in/near atlanta. Apparently they have loads of old gen stuff. I'd try searching around a little bit for something like that. I'll see if I can dig up the guy's phone number and see if he can give me more specific information.

Fix it cheaply. Take the money and buy another Soob. One can never have too many

As Idasho mentioned, you can achieve whatever alignment you want with a lift. If you drop the whole driveline and put an offset in your strut spacers, stock suspension geometry is no problem. There are plenty of threads discussing the whole concept.

I made this mistake when I made the lift for my Brat. I figured If I drop everything then the angles will stay the same. Boy was I wrong. I had to make new blocks for the strut tops with an offset. Now everything is nice. It's kind of hard for me to explain it with words, but trust me you NEED the offset even when dropping the crossmember.

Why would you go hard on the throttle? Just give it enough gas to keep it moving without breaking the tires loose.

With the AWD, it should make little difference either way. Park facing out and just go really easy on the accelerator. You should be just fine.

Four wheel steer!

I think that propane trick just changed my life. I always just listened and manually checked hoses and connections. It never occurred to me that there might be a better way. Also, seafoam is like magic in a bottle.

I just noticed that the hub cap centers are even still blue. Wow.

You'd have to be some kind of a monster to cut that thing up. I'm so glad that was a joke.

Check out the classifieds section. Post a new topic under Parts Wanted. Welcome to the board!

Perfect. I must've read through the first time before I had my coffee.... The pictures make it pretty clear. Thanks!

I'd like to see a picture, for sure. I'm having trouble visualizing. I know I'll have to get the cover off on my wife's 2002 LL Bean eventually...

Try a little research here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142901-8-bit-racing-87-rx/

So far it's turned up nothing

That's close. That is for a gen2. The gen2 outback and forester ones are a dime a dozen and only cover half of the hatch area. I'm looking for one for a gen1 outback that covers the entire hatch area. The gen1 version probably could hold 40+ gallons of liquid. It's like a kiddie pool. Obviously I would not want to use it for that, but it just gives some perspective on the mess-containing abilities. Gen2 might end up being the fall-back plan. This isn't the best image ever, but the "Cargo Bin" on the second page here is what I'm looking for: https://www.subaru.com/content/downloads/pdf/accbrochures/1998_OBK_Accessories.pdf Someone over on subaruoutback.org found this brochure for me.