ivans imports

no they get a ( humping ) the vibrations cycle with a rythem almost like a surge and whould be worse the hoter they get they only get thiss on inside cv the outer will just click and tear itself apart but the iner will vibrtae but only if dry i doubt that its a cv have seen som realy bad ones drive fine till they broke keep looking

on my race buggy the driveshaft has a space of 3/4 to 13/16 from the tail to the drivshaft is way to short have been waiting for it to wipe a spline but 6 years of racing no failure yet thiss whould not cause a vibration out of alinment or bad ujoint bent tire ballance did you use a two pice drive shaft or one peice ? is your tail shaft inline with diff ? and so on

sorry one more thing i put TBI on my 81 brat with ea81 works realy realy good and 10 years no problems

first change the rear fillter then remove the front water seperator and add a second fillter there take the lines and hook them up strait trough there is a tiny red rubber valve in the return line from the water seperator that cocks up and thiss seystem was bad for messing up and check the fillter one the carb float valve seat was bad for pluging next check the intank fillter by blowing air carfully in to tank through the feul outlet line they had a screen fillter on tank pu that gets pluged so 1 2 3 4 fillters to check and make shure has a heat riser or will freeze up on wet days

crazy the uper ring land lifted up and was contacting the cly head made a sound like a rod but not a rod so two dead forged wiscos and some dents in the head so two wiscos on 2@4 and two stock sti pistons on 1@3 balance no way tough oh ya will no mercy run it agian thiss weekend at least it will have all 4 agian

bumper tip i use a 4ft long extention and come from the far side with a 14 swivel socket

all over the feul syestems new fillters and iv'e done the pump on almost evry subie around here it seems to easy for it to be somthing simple i used the lucas feul treatment because it also has a lubracant that whould help a sticking injector havent seen the test pilot since fingers crossed I had a thought about moving the rear cat and o2 forward to get them hotter but i still think its a lean problem or posibly a carbon on the intake valve problem the carbon is working like a sponge and soaking up the gas making it run lean still driving me nuts

change the oring on back side of cam seal addapter and plug on ps back cam i find theese o rings leak alot

ground where coil bolts up or regulator on alt pushing to high of volts should be no more than 14.5 volts at 3500 rpm nothing turned on

i may still have a tank but geting rare

did one yesterday axle and new berings on ds took 1 hour most time was cleanig the crap off parts

hearts go out to any subaru tech in need good luck with your bennifit dinner good luck mario

put on the nut and washer and pull from both sides with two heal bars or otc tools sells a axle puller tool for about 85$ a must for any oldschool subaru owner

i think one from ej timing cover could work or i have one in my 77-78 brat parts or could take off my parts 77 wag

i dont think we even got the 360 in canada

i put avionic forma gasket around the outside of evry seal takes care of any scratches or nicks and helps it to slide in and a little bit of grease on inside lip

teh front crank seal seals the oil pump if tierd the seal will allow air into the oil trough the seal and make foamy oil just like the ea82 did and will tick the hotter it gets try a crank seal from subaru the brown one and see if that helps

all 2.5 s mostly the 2.51 from 99-05 a few ealy ones the 2.2 seems immune to it only seen one 2.2 and was 01 phase two most have had engines rebuilt and all new compnents and good comp and tune most i have been the only one to work on them i tried some lucas feul syestem treatment on one yesterday as a test pilot is a 03 forester had turned light on will see if that helps it at all i still think its a lean problem pluged injectors i think

stop driveing and check the front ujoint in the driveshaft had one break and smash the whole tailshaft of trans and had one two days later same thing and one a week before same all the front ujoint makes it vibrate like crazy will feel like its in the floor under you bum or in back end of car ushaly has a ping when put in gear or transitioing from drive to reverse check all ujoints

go get the ones for drilling stainless steel cost big $ but realy work or snapon drill bitt cheapies will not do i have a set of reverse bitts they work good i dont weld nuts to it because will harden steel and make it undrillabble i grind them flat with flange pin punch the center and drill through it this is only way i have had luck cause the alluiminum melts to bolt thread and bolt will never come out

have only seen 4.44 in the newer trans no 3.9 or 4.11 yet i know there are differant stalls on the tourqe converter i phone the dealer with the trany vin to get ratios but the only for shure way is to pull the front diff and count is right every time the forester will have a 2100 stall and the impreza will have a 2800 stall the flex plate will be smaller unless was a 2.5 impreza then will be same

but its not just cars in my area on is from edmonton over 800 kms away and 420 other is from vancouver 600 kms away from all over the map and differnt gas stations and some run only premium feul some run crap feul i dont think its the gas I think that its to lean or ecu calibration problem i do get some very dirty feul fillters here still no solution as of yet

i have some but the spigots are broke on top of sending units

i drill them out to exact size of bolt not hole and retap the threds with bottoming tap just drill them will save many hous of greif buy a new cobalt bitt and make a dead center pilot hole with a small bitt first i fix about 50 broken exhuast bolts a week dam things

nice brat !