NorthWet

Changing the ATF is generally just a good thing... it is easy for the automatics to get overheated and have the ATF degrade. I did not mean to imply any connection between missing gear material and needing to change the ATF. In my experiences, the governor valves tend to get gummed-up and or develop slight burring that affects its function. This seems to be the experience of others here, which accounts for the article on cleaning it up. I also have a sneaking suspicion that a valve in need of cleanup could become rotationally unbalanced enough to cause the gear-end to wobble. But this is still just conjecture. Also, replacing the gear sometimes isn't enough: I have 2 3ATs which will eat a new driven gear within a couple hundred miles. I suspect that the drive gear is toast. Cheers!

Way down deep: On the back side of the manifold, sticking horizontally toward the back of the engine, just a little above the block. The connector is almost hard up against a tube...PCV crossover??? I had to take off my spider to get at it.

IIRC, the separate knock controllers were only used on the Flapper-MAF MPFIs (and hidden somewhere on the left fender area, probably between fender liner and fender). The hot-wire/later MPFIs had the knock control within the ECU. Common culprits IMO are degraded high-tension parts (mine have always been touchy on spark wires), the CTS (corroded connector/wires) and Diagnostic plug still connected. The common turbo-parts failure that was mentioned is probably the upipe's turbo flange, which tends to crack: Pretty sure that you would have heard the racket at idle.

Yes, the valve is on the opposite end of the governor shaft from that gear. For more information: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/47528-governor-gear-information/?hl=governor

On a Subaru tranny, it is almost always advisable to change the ATF... but that is not where the gear debris would go: It is driven off of the front pinion shaft, so it is lubed by the differential gear oil. Changing the gear only deals with part of the problem. The governor valve needs to be thoroughly cleaned and polished.

My local dealership charged nearly US$80 for my first one; I found out afterward that US$30-32 was the going rate. Shop around if needed.

Sorry, I mistyped its location... I was so concerned about not assuming everybody was US-market, I wrote the wrong side. Yes, that is pretty bad. If this just started giving you trouble, you can probably get away with replacing the gear; this should give you anywhere from 1 week to a couple years of use. But you also need to rebuild that valve: Even if it seems to be working properly, follow the directions elsewhere on how to polish, clean and reassemble the valve head. I am considering making an electronically actuated, non-rotating solenoid valve to totally eliminate the rotational issues of the governor.

That is what we are here for. Enjoy!

If you have an 86, you have a 3-speed automatic, aka "3AT" (technically, a JATCO M41/M41A core). The governor lives under an aluminum dome-cover above the front-axle shaft on the US-passenger's-side of the transmission. 3 bolts hold on the cover... it is a little tight to get to on a turbo model. With any luck, your main problem is just a gummed-up governor valve. Edit: changed incorrect "driver's-side" to "passenger's-side" :endEdit

If you are getting some popping in the exhaust, most likely cause is a broken non-distributor side belt, followed closely by losing the screw that holds the rotor on the distributor shaft. To check if it is the rotor screw, pull the distributor cap and see if you can rotate or remove the rotor by just grabbing it. Fuel system is very unlikely. you can get the fuel pump to cycle every 5 seconds or so by connecting the single-wire green connectors near your windshield wiper motor.

Sorry, I don't wish to start an argument, but shortening a coil spring will increase its spring rate. A coil spring is merely a torsion bar that is wound into a helical shape to fit in a smaller space. When you halve the length you double the spring rate. Progressive rate springs are usually wound with closer coil spacing for some coils so they bind early and cause the spring rate to increase. (They can also be wound with varying coil radii, or with varying bar cross-section.) Cheers!

My $0.02 is to listen to (and follow!) grossgary's advice, but expect the issues that ivans imports mentioned. I catastrophically destroyed the band (it's not smart to shift into reverse while doing 20mph...), and the result was only having first and reverse.

I think that this is great advice. The OP is happy with the advice, the problem is resolved and he thanked everybody for their assistance. Please, no flame wars.

A good locksmith can also do the same.

Any front end work in the last couple months?

Basics: As mentioned, take off the distributor cap and see if the rotor turns when you crank the engine - If no, then broken distributor-side timing belt. Replace belt and go. - Otherwise, grab the rotor and see if it will turn or pull off of the distributor shaft. I am pretty sure that your model uses a screw through the side of the rotor to retain it, and these often back out, allowing the rotor to move out of position. ECU codes on a non-starting engine can be more misleading than useful.

No effect on my 88 MPFI. Can't remember for sure if it has happened on my subaru, but I know a couple of my vehicles do the fuel-cut even standing still: If I had set the idle too high, the rpms would roller-coaster at a traffic light as the ECU does a fuel-cut and then restarts it once RPM drop below its lower limit. My personal belief is that, although the ECU processes the signal from the speedo, it does not use the signal.

Yea, same unpleasant result.

The diagnostic connectors will fix the timing at whatever you set the distributor, not at 0degrees. It essentially disables ECU timing adjustment (amongst other things)..

Since this sounds like an SPFI car, I believe that the connectors would be in the engine bay next to the windshield wiper motor.

I can't think of any significant differences.

Taken from another website, haven't verified that the numbers are totally accurate, but should be ballpark: "...E85 has a different stoichometric air fuel ratio than gasoline's 14.7. The stoich AFR for E85 (at 85% Ethanol) is 9.76." What this means is that it takes around 50% more E85 to be injected in as compared to gasoline. Ethanol is a much less energy-dense fuel than is gasoline. I don't know how many cars' FI systems could cope with that great of a "Trim" value. And, in the end, is saving $0.50/gallon worth using 50% more fuel?

Sounds to me like the green diagnostic plugs are connected, which, among other things (such as holding ignition timing constant), also causes the fuel pump to cycle every 5 seconds or so.

+1 on the PCV valve/system. Something else to check (along with the PCV valve) is where the PCV hoses attach to the valve covers: The metal tube on the cover tends to accrete crud, narrowing the opening. This can cause oil to pump up into the PCV hose and get sucked into the engine.

Is there an idler/tensioner pulley in the belt path?