mikaleda

These trans have an internal screen that lasts the life of the trans it just needs to be cleaned, have heard of people putting knock sensors in other holes when the bolt snaps of, that shold be fine. The knock sensor only controls engine timing, the TPS is the only sensor on the engine that has anything to do with the trans. Black connecters are for read memory mode and should only be plugged in koeo. What Ivan mentioned in another thread is an o ring on the filter than can get ripped or damaged and caus ethe fluid to get air bubles and cause shifting and other problems Edit: you trans may have an external spin on filter if it is a phase 2 4eat

It sounds to me like the TCM is in limp mode since its not shifting and you can still get to 60mph it's not in first it's probably stuck in third wich is part of the limp mode. Vss or vehicle speed sensor could be at fault, but it sounds like it might be something more.

60k or after so many years, wouldn't be a bad idea to replace them if you don't know how old they are. You might want to pull the inspection covers and check it out before you replace it, it very well could be the belt or it could be something else.

alternator is just a bolt in ordeal, just use the alt off your old engine there the same extrnaly, they differ internally though. I'm not a brat expert, but I do believe 80 was a change over year on the brat but I can't tell you for sure. i don't think there is any differance in the trans, but I believe there are a couple differences in 84, some had a feedback carb with an ecu, but I think that was only in the 2wd California spec cars, I'm not sure about that though. Overall it shold be basically the same, it's good you have a whole parts car for refrance that will help, just take your time take a lot of pics before and during removal of both engines for reference.Also if the engine is out of an 84 w/auto it could have hydro lifters. Edit: I mean hydraulic lash adjusters

That sounds like a fun rig, I love those old 2 speed powerglides, damn near indestructible.

Could also be a clogged trans cooler to, easy way to test that is to loop the line back to the trans and drive it a bit and see if there's any differance. I would try 1lucky texans idea first since its sat for a while.

I doubt their differant, they do the same thing.

You're probably okay, as long as the whine goes away and it starts shifting better (wich it should).

That's low compression I think Ivan said it best Check the timing on the timing belt.

Yep a job can't be done right if its done in a rush.

The biggest differance I believe you will see is the emissions hook ups will be differant I believe other than that everything shold bolt in. Unless for some reason you like the hitachi you could get a weber And install it on your new engine then you would have to worry about the emissions hook ups. Another thing that may be differant is the ignition system, if your old ea71 has points you'll want to switch the coil assembly over with the 84 ea81 since it will be electronic. Another differance will be in the alternators, in 82 subaru started using internally regulated alts so you will want to use the alt of your ea71 also unless you want to wire in an the newer style, wich is a pain in the butt.

I don't claim to be a professional, but after changing the oil on people's cars after they take it to one of those oil change places I'm appalled at what little they do. On the majority of the cars I have seen they are running super cheap filters and when I pull the filter off its amazing to see that nobody bothers to clean the mating surface for the filter. There was one that I did that I had to acctually use a putty knife to clean the gunk off the mating surface for the oil filter. I'm not saying there arn't places that do a better job, but I just don't trust my car in anyone else's hands, I guess that is also becaus I've never taken any of my cars to a mechanic.

Throw out bearing is only in use with the clutch depressed so no on the TO. it sounds like you have worn syncros and possibly a failing input shaft bearing.

Testing a t-stat is easy and is a good idea since they are not always good even expensive ones. All you have to do is boil a pan of water drop the t-stat in and watch it open, I usually put a candy thermometer in there, put the T-stat in while the waters cold and watch the opening temp as the water comes to a boil

^ these kind of stories is exactly why I change my own oil. Not putting oil back in the engine is unacceptable

Okay that's what I was afraid of so this poor engine has been running with out filtering the oil, that would explain why it turned dark on me so fast the first time I changed the oil. Well that settles it once I get my Lego running its time to start looking for an ea81 and a dual range to transplant into this car. Until I get the 1800 though I'm going to see what a 1600 can do off roading.

I had a seized rear brake on my gl, so I took the brake pads out and used a brad that fit perfectly it the brake line to seal that cylinder off so it wouldn't move. It would probably be better than letting it leak out.

Okay I looked at it in my shop Manuel I was wrong at where the ball is, the oil pressure releif is still in tact, but my chilitons doesn't tell me what the ball part it is.

I would try pulling the radio fuse for a few minuets and see if that resets it.

Nvr mind my first post I don't know why I was thinking Lego. Here is empi info from rock auto http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2977926&cc=1270099 It says 23. I believe I have heard about the early turbo autos having the twentythree spline count. Hope this helps

It could have some corrosion where it connects to the block, try cleaning the block surface where the knock sensor sits and polish the bottom of the knock sensor.

8 degrees is correct, but with a weber timing can be set to 20 degrees for good low end tourqe. If you have a stock hitachi though 20 degrees would mean you have a vaccume leak somewhere or your idle speed is wrong.

I noticed when I rebuilt the oil pump on my gl that the ball bearing that lives inside the oil pump was missing, the spring was there but no ball. I think it's the bypass valve, I was just wondering if anyone knows what size the ball is and where I might be able to find one. Also does anyone know if I have to pull the pump again to fix this, or can I unscrew the cap on the pump and put the ball in that way? Another thing I would like to know is, is this a bypass valve and did having it always open like this cause the filter to be bypassed? I have a fealing that the p.o. Who changed the oil but left the filter from 97 on did this for some odd reason

I am not sure about that, I think it might have to do with the turbo. I don't know much about the turbo motors or their wiring.

IMHO I would say its worth rebuilding the hitachi since you don't want to go the weber route. It sounds like an internal problem in the carb somewhere, maybe sticky fuel pump or partially clogged jet.