ferp420

I would install a 2" reciver somewere maybe under the bumper cover and mount the winch to a removable winch plate for a 2" hitch that way its not out all.the time and can be used between differant cars i have a few winches mounted like this it works well I also on mine mounted my licence plate with the 2" reciver so i pull my licence plate and stick my winch in the whole and put the pin in and im good licence plate goes in the back

The ford tempo springs do fit the front ea82 struts not perfict fit but i am running them on mine with no issues the front end will be very stiff i have a 12000lb winch sticking way out front of my rig that soffend up my springs but there still stiff and will give a little lift however your camber will be off the best lift is still the 2" lift blocks they fix the camber issues as there is no built in adjustments the camber only realy matters on the street so probably not a issue on this rig

I would have put tbe motor in the back somehow im in the dreaming stage of a similer build i have a vw convertable just waiting but it dose have a brand new engine in it right now and i dougbt it will ever see more than just running around the yard if it stays stock i just love looking at my vws but i can still dream it up in my head i see the trans mounted upside down but i see all kinds of issues witb that but when i get back to storage im gona grab my single range trans and see what i can do with it

I Never thought about that the vise is alot easyer but not portable i hope i never have to do that but nice to know it can be done

old non iterferance 2.2 are awsome mine are all interferance motors though they take alot of work to change the tbelts on and i dont usaly carry a vice in the roos for compressing the spring tenstioner to do the tbelts on the side of the road the ea82 belts just slide on and off no tools needed

I love my ea82 and the timing belt set up but the set up can and dose toss belts at the worst time there exstremely easy to do one the covers are removed but not the most reliable or efficiant set up for us tinkeres its fine but most people hate them out of all my roos the ea82 is my favorite and i have a slew of ej powered rigs but if that belt pops off in a mud hole again i might have kick it in the fender the op sead he dident like timing belts so its just kinda a warrning the ea82 has the worst timing belt set up because they toss the belt or break them or the best if you like changing them on the side of the road or atleast you can change them on the side of the road

I went with the 1"7/8 stock size is 1"3/4 2" would be ok too

Pvc is fine just remeber the front end will settle a little so account for that

Just cap it off it dosent do anything unless you need it for emissions inspection i caped mine off and have had no issues Sorry i think the trolls have everyone in a tizzy If you need some pics i will take a few when i get home if no one else dose

I Dont think there is a pre made kit but there easy to fabricate lots of threads about it on the forum

The ea82 has the worst timing belt set up around the fuel injection on th3 other hand is very reliable that and a ignition upgrade would make a big differance in drivabuility and give you a more reliable rig atleast in my opinion

Changing That setting wont do anything for you if you back it off all.the way it shouldent change anything screwing it in will only make it do the same thing faster its only there to stop ware on the throtle body and flapper i would take a few pics anyway but my roo is 2000 miles away right now

The surging is the computer trying to work out the air fuel ratios going from rich to lean to rich to lean the sensors arent giving the computer the corect info if you take the sensor out of the system the computer is saposed to go in to closed loop mode and runs rich for safty reasons so unplug one sensor at a time and run it it may be 2 bad sensors or could be some corostion or a bad ground its very commin

Maybe i should have watched the vid thats no vacume leak sounds like a sensor check your grounds first then unplug one sensor at a time im thinking temp sensor or o2 sensor or something connected with them just guessing Oh ya a bad map/maf sensor would cause that also a leak in the intake boot a leaking crank case venting system could be adding extra airinto the system Dose it do it all the time or just when cold or warm

I guess you would have had to read his past posts to know or just watch the vid

Worth a shot its got me a few times

I Anealed every gasket then coat with copper head gasket conditioner made for copper gaskets the anealing dose 2 things softens the copper making it pliable like you sead but it also cleans the gasket for the next dressing like home boy says the water jackets leaked v2 will be copper ringed it was .30 thousath.thick and i never tested my comprestion with them one side lasted longer than the other after the 3 or 4th install the comp ring wouldent seal the problem with ringing the gaskets is the ring eats in to the aluminum and can ruin a set of heads and the block i was trying to save my stock of heads and blocks but the next run will be a even higher comprestion and ill toss the whole motor when im done with it some people actualy cut a grove and use rubber orings but i only exspect that to last till the rubber hardens up and cracks but on a race motor it would never get to that point as it would be changed out regulerly when serviced there are alot of utube vids that are great resorces although copper gaskets are not needed on a ea sieries engine i like to make my own parts i get copper sheets for free and there reusable just replace the copper rings and a but load of machine work on the heads to get the old ring land out so it made sence to do it now that i have my formula down ill build another one using good parts and my v2 gaskets

Tuneable for a bike not a car thats your key there then there homeboy saying they ware fast been there get a few thousand miles on it and by by air fuel mix enjoy

What ever happend to the napkin lift diagram that was a great resorce for a cheap 2" lift

The problem with a 1 wire is it only reads voltage at the battery instead of the fuese pannel so its a big strain on the battery and dosent account for the load on the system just the battery its real easy to wire a gm 3 wire or any other brand and it wont kill your battery the 1 wire is for people who only drive on sudays and keep there car on a battery buddy and want a super clean engine bay fine for hot rods but not so good on daily drivers it will work but your voltage will be all over the place a good battery can deal with it but sesitive electronics will suffer ive seen batterys explode from using a 1 wire it was old and used but still the overcharging and over discharging poped it

Oh the tunnel ram uses a down draft carb not a side draft

A Weber is not easyer its.just better and fuel injection in my opinion is even better the kini carb is to simple and not designed to push a car for 300 thousand miles 50k maybe at best not enuff jets only the main is adjustable the others are fixed and tuned to the pipe its not the engine size that your dealing with its so much more please keep exsplaining how little you know

I built more cars by the time you were 10 than you have owned

Did you check your break booster to see if its has a vacume leak just clamp the line closed iv3 had the rubber gromit go bad too and creat a vacume leak

Calis to far then sorry good luck