ferp420

High sided

Taking a big rock on the right

Since photofooy killed all the pics in the threads im starting my own pic thread just for little blue and its transformation from crusty handmedown tradein pos to a running wheeling piece of art built for the local ohv parks in the bay area and to explore the desert with so heres the pics in no paticuler order Starting point Now it looks more like this

Dont use the v1 copper gaskets they dident hold for snot v2 will be multi layered ringed gaskets kinda pointless if you ask me though these engines arent strongenuff to need a head gasket like that thats why im the only one that makes them the felpro are very good gaekets just thick

I wont use rock auto simply because i cant find any part ive ever needed on there web site it has to be the worst autoparts store website in history even when they posted a special here on the forum with links i clicked on the link and it went no were it ended up at some sensor or something not breaks like the link sead it was i could not find a break kit to save my life i ended up getting a killer deal on all 4 breaks cross drilled and sloted rotors and ceramic pads made in sothern california off of ebay and it was so easy to find 5 min they were on there way crock auto i spent almost a hour looking for there break kits there adds are starting to piss me off claiming a easy to use website and bla bla bla its just false advertising but now there adds are everywere so i refuse to even look at there site

All the heads crack on these rigs on almost every aluminum head ive ever pulled had some kind of crack but very rearly they do they ever crack through unless its a turdbo head gaskets are cheap get some sand paper and have at its its all very easy ive changed a head gasket in a half hour on this rig the hardest part about th3 hole job is geting rid of those stupid timing belt covers

Me too it looks like one of my rc cars lol I dont realy know anything about trasmissions but from the basic discription i would guess dirrty gears the back side dosent get used as much so if it sat for any time there might be deposits on the back side of the gears i would do alot of down shifting and engine breaking try to ride the back side of the gears as much as posable then flush it and add some super gooupy additives and see if it goes away if not its probably a bad bearing but im just guessing

I got that code with a bad ground and 2 other codes the wire from battery to body solved the issue for me and ive seen it on 2 other loyals same issues same solution

Or stuck knee deep in a mud hole at 12am in the middle of the desert wereing shorts and a tee shirt when its 40° out side

A 2" lift with the right tire and wheel combo would give you the look with out killing your rig remeber the tires give you alot of lift on there own and with some creativity it will look like a monster a 2-3" lift + tires should be close to 6" of lift and wont destroy your body mounts a 6" lift + tires is for.people with big money and like to through it in to deep holes filled with stuff like mud people who dont mind breaking th3 rig in 2 and you would evetualy need to know how to weld and fabricate anyway so just find the napkin follow the instructions writen on it and call it a lift the 2" lifts are very easy to make and very cheap you can always go bigger later if its not enuff and you think your powertrain will handle it

I would check your grounds and vacume lines a bad gound will cause all kinds of problems if it is a ground issue its most likly a body ground you can do a quick test with jumper cables

Use the mlc gaskets or multi layered copper gaskets they dont have that tab they never leak and are reusable there extremely hard to come by but are worth the effort

I run what ever matching sets i find at the junk yard on 1/2 off day lol ive got 6 goodyear wranglers right now and i got all 6 for under $100

The d3sert has a way of eating rigs lol and thats 90% of my wheeling in the last few years on th3 flip side im broken and im getting old and my wheelin is starting to reflect that all the hard core wheelin is done in scalers now lol so much easyer on the body and wallet Try soaking the ecu in carrosion x ive brought back a few electrical items with that stuff its great for underwater electrical stuff as long as nothing shorted out and fried

Those body braces are sweet but they only adress a small area of the body you need the entire car to be solid with no flex i would tie the front end bumper and strut towers and engine cradle all together and lock it in to place with the role cage then tie the rear struts diff housing and r3ar bumper also ive bent cars in half before to the point were the doors dont close and the windows poped out your car looks like one good jump away from being a tube buggie lol i would never exspect a unibody to hold up to any seriose abuse for long as you are finding out your repair work is realy good but it dose nothing to adress the design limitation of the car and it will never be the same as it was i would.think its.gona eat tires and handle alittle funny not that it matters muchfor a off road race car the tube work would just be there as reinforcemnts no need to use heavy tube some nice light 1" thin wall dom would do the trick as long as its all tied together that duel range is.gona be sweet it will take that rig to the next leval for sure just make sure the chassie can handle the next leval lol

Just hope you dont get a 1 3/4 " rock wedged in there you would.be surprized the things ive pulled out of my front skid once on my truck i pulled a.seagull out.from between my skid and my oil pan lol truck also came with tank protection it was a pain in my back side picking the rocks out every time i went out i would think a few pieces of tube would do the trick if anything at all you would.have to have gone through some hella nasty stationary rocks already to get to 5he piont that the.gas tank would.be in any danger i would think that there would be other things that would hit long before the gas tank chances are you would.put a rock though the floor boards before the gas tank hits dont get me wrong i know the tank takes some hits but ive only had issues coming off of ledges and having loose rocks flyup or hit rocks burried in the sand but ledges ussaly arent jaged other wise the undercaredge would be rip up and rocks in loose dirt or.sand tend to give before the sheet metal doses it just.seems like alot of unnessisary wait your better off protecting the rear quarters and positioning the car so it takes th3 big rocks along the side of the car and not down the middle i use my rearquarter sliders all the time i also dont have alot of tank damadge just some minor dents and scrapes and like i sead i carry fuel safe stick epoxy just in case and i also have 2 extra tanks laying around for a more perminite fix if need be but if your realy that worried about it fuel cells are cheap now days

Heat and tranny fluid and more heat then more tranny fluid then tapper tap tap heat fluid heat fluid you dont have to hit it hard just fast solid blows over and over again the id3a is to vibrate the metal to the point that the tranny fluid can work its way in and the part should just fall out thats the idea any way

R3place the innerds use a similer one as a donner maybe find the same brand there isent much to them