ferp420

My major confustion comes in to play when you say mongral as i have always undertood that to mean a high compretion engine running 10:1 and up so i was thinking it was a mongralized turdbo you guys have stuff down there ive never seen befor so it interesting to here about how its done down under

I started by porting and polishing the heads shortend the valve runners shaved the heads shaved the block custom longer intake manifold also ported runners changed from a swirl pattern to a tumble patter that gets the fuel /air mix to the cylinders better and more even upgraded the ignition ported the exhaust manifold and a bigger exhaust thats straiter than stock to get the air out more efficently removed all the intake restrictions and am running a true cold air intake sucking from the roof not the engine compartment or the fender i did a complete thread on the build with all the bs in it if you have any ideas on what i could do to get more out of it im listening but i think i have found the limits of the computer so anymore is gona require some creative fuel manegment and programing that i dont realy want to get in to other than that im open to anything

Yes i am confused lol i would like more info on the engine ive worked on alot of industrial propain motors but never on a vehicle and im always interesed in performance mods on the ea82 seing as no one ever mods these motors im always looking for insperation my last ea82m build would run circles around the turbo model witch is the main reason my friend sold his gl10 even after a few upgrades i was still walking away from him lol and im doing it while running 30" tires even on 3 cylinders it would still pull its own wait and then some up a hill to my garage

Most of the gas tank skids ive seen end up traping rocks that ether ware or punch holes in the tank it seems the right way to protect the tank is to use a after market tank mounted out of the way of the rocks the skid plate also make fixing any leak a pain in the --- i just cary a tube of all purpose epoxy in my glove box if i hole my tank i can patch it up in seconds been there done that lol if you do end up using a skid plate just make.sure its sealed to the tank so nothing can get between the tank and the skid even small rocks cause leaks i sugest useing silicone or something along those lines to seal it off and make sure the paint is good on the tank or it will rust real fast sealed up like that

Alot of industral motors run propain on low comprestion engines like you have they run forever in a car would be under powered

I tossed that crossmeber and made my drive shaft as straight as posable i also have a 3.5" subfame drop i used the holes from that crossmeber to bolt in the new suspention links i never could.figure out what that was saposed to do

Thats right my memory isent what it used to be it just takes a higher rpm to get to the torque still not good in my book and could cause drivabuility issues with even less power whats the factory serv8ce manual say about the 4th and 5th gears for the xt4 and or gl-10 the double over drive in the gl/loyale would amplify the issue i would think

Oh ok and dont both of those modles have the single over drive gear set like the turbo modle in the tranmissions and i would think the 3.9:1 finnal drive gears to keep the motor spinning faster to make up for having less torque

The mongral is a high comprestion engine yours is a ea82B a low compresion with narrow high flow intake it might drivable on gas but propain you just wont be able to get enuff air and gas in the motor to make power with out forced induction other wise there just wont be enuff volume of air available when the trottle opens up theres a reason subaru dident make the ea82 with multi point injection naturaly asperated i think they tryed it but ive never seen or herd of one but i have seen the specs on it and if i remeber the hp was higher and torque was lower i dont think it ever made it to production on the other side of the coin i bet the motor will last for ever that would be a awsome industrial motor for say like on oh i dont know a generator maybe i say add a turdbo and make it real

Those are the one im using on 2 axles anyway going on 3 years now they dont make the axle any stronger but they dont rub through even coated in mud sand and grease like the cheap rubber boots one word of causion on the rears dont cut to much extra off cut on the wast side of the little lip you wont need to trim them on the front axles

If it bothers you add some dura lube the long strain triglicerides are exstremely hard to shear helping to protect the metal at start up or you could just use high mileage oil or motorcycle oil that already has the dura lube in it they have a triangle icon on the bottle but all the oil.manufactures have there own name for it i have been building engines for 30 years and tearing motors down that i built after 50000 miles and seeing no were in the engine i can say first hand it helps protect the engine however if the torque.specs arent right in the nuts and bolts that come in to contact with the oil they will come undone ask me how i know ive been doing this for a while

I had a 1963 ford van that was crusty as all could B i used gas tank sealer epoxy on the holes in the gas tank and it lasted longer than i had the van it was just orealys gas tank sealer

Homeboy here builds little buggies he might have something you could use a kit maybe or i dont know might be worth talking to i think its the guy who builds the lift kits sjr you could always just set.the.parts on the ground and start bending cuting and welding till you have a buggie thats howni do it lol

Capain dub thanks for that diagram it clearly shows the linkadge adjustment in the shifters the part # 14 has the studs are in it part #18 is a nut but it shows were the holes are those holes are larger than the bolts they go in to and that is were all your ajustment is if those bolts came loose it could cause the OPs issue part # 18 the nut is usaly coverd by undercoating and cant be seen till you scrape it off the holes can be inlarged a bit if you need more adjustment if any of those little parts in the shifter base broke or wore out it could make the shifter stiff and cause it to move at the adjuster point instead of the shifter joint making the location of the gears phisicly change places

So murphy pack up his isht and found a new home with a very exsited new owner he got a great set of new LEDs and a turn signal mod the next day someone snaped it up heres the last pic i took of him good buy murphy Sorry no ea81 parts

You can fix that.by using the adjusters you can see in your picture there are 2 plates one conected to the shifter and one to the body and there bolted together you can see the top of the studs in the pics the holes are biger in the plate that mounts to the body it can go any direction about a 1/2" just loosten the 2 bolts and give it a twist tighten it back up

Timing ?

A bad Radiator whould cause it to get hot and getting hot will cause it to run slugish untill it cools

On my loyale some one before it came to me had the check engine light rewirered to the altornator light it comes on then you turn the key on and goes off once running like its saposed to they took the wire off the check light and ran a second wire from the alternator light very easy to do and to get to on my freinds car it was a auto but now its a manual and someone wired in a relay to fix the nutral safty switch i dont have any idea how it was done but i know it can be done

No but they have a 10 speed lol if you count the high and low gears

The pictures i took were on a old device i had the exsact same issue with my duel range swap i figured out tbe adjustment because i had the sh8fters out of the car trying to figue it out i hit the assembalie with a whire wheel and wow theres the adjustments if you lay under.the car pretend the drive shaft and exhaust is out of the way look up a5 the shifter there are 2 bumps under it thoses 2 bumps are nuts under the under coating loosten them up move the shifter tighten them back down there are 2 plates for the shift mechinism one plate is conect3d to the shifter it self the other mounts 2 the body change the o4ientation of the 2 plates and you change your adjustment and YES i am high thank you very much but i still know how to adjust a.shifter

those arent squrals there hampsters lol thats the wheel they run on to power th3 bus the problem with this set up is if you leave the door open the hampsters can get out then your screwed lol there no fun to chase down

If photofuckit was still around i.would.post a pic of it there is a adjustment on the ea82 shifter

Yes there is it has a 1/2 " of adjustment built in to it clean off the undercoating around the bolts its.there

I say put the turdbo back on it and a big turdbo at that the turdbo manifold isent designed for low end torque and the low compresion carb block is weak on power to start with and propain has alot fewer BTUs than gas so ya its gona be a turd with out a turbo but the compresion bump of the carb block over the turbo block and a turbo should be about right on for propain the mongral as i have always understood was a high comprestion motor or high powered ea82 non turbo you have a castrated ea82t or the ea82c not a very well thought out plan unless your building it as a go cart motor or something i bet it would run for ever as a industrial motor like for a generator or water pump built like that