Dee2

If it was bearings you should hear it all the time, not just backing up.

Mine were tough to get out when I did mine. I had the same concern. Just take your time and keep nudging till they move. Breaking bolts is just part of the risk on these old cars.

Like john in KY said, do em both. It may seem wasteful but keep any good parts. They may come in handy if problems reappear in the near future.

I'd stick with the stuff you're currently using. No need to change.

this goes directly to the chart http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/73038-axle-replacement-for-ea-series-cars/page-2?do=findComment&comment=629117

Having to redo the solder connections on the clock every few years when they go bad.

I have a front wheel drive Loyale sedan and put the KYB GR2 341063 shocks on the rear. Solved my problems and gives me a nice ride. I recall the shocks are difficult to install as the threaded stud on the top has little to no extra space. Needed to work at fitting everything back together. Yes, a spring compressor is required to remove the old shock. Or, you can remove the entire assemblies from the car and take them to a shop with the new shocks and have those folks do the swap out. Then just bolt the assemblies back onto the car.

Are you getting any CEL codes ?

Not trying to argue, I just wanted to let you know, at least for me, it still comes up as private. No need to fix, I'll move on...

Still locked ....

I've had my Subaru for 25 years and it has 210K mi., engine runs great with good compression. I use 10W40, 10W30, many different brands over the years along with whatever filter is on sale. Lately, I've grown fond of 10W40 Motorcraft synthetic blend. I get a good price at Walmart.

The video is marked private...no help there.

Metallic noise could be several things, but no way to tell without actually hearing it. If you want to take a chance, make your offer to match the condition. Sounds like they are wanting to get rid of it.

Engine shutting down while driving sounds like a fuel pump issue. This can come and go for a while until one day it just won't work anymore. The clicking problem when trying to start the car is usually a problem with the starter needing new solenoid contacts with the addition of a starter relay. I'm not sure if your model has a starter relay, but some did not, and adding one helps.

The Oxygen sensors are not expensive and should be replaced periodically. It can substantially improve gas mileage.

While you have everything apart, You might want to check/do a few other things. --axles and wheel bearings --oxygen sensor --transmission seals where the axles connect.

Just because it's only three years old doesn't mean its good. After charging it needs to be tested. When you go in for testing the battery they can test the alternator too.

"I just filled the tank" That's a pretty good clue. Sounds like you got some junk fuel. Was it cheapo gas? Change the fuel filter, see if it helps. Help may only be temporary as it may just clog again. But at least you will confirm problem and then resolve how to remove dirty fuel/

"Every time I get a jump to the battery the car will start up just fine, but then cut it off and try to start it again and it won't run" This is a pretty good indicator that the battery is not up to snuff. Check all the connectors that they are good and clean, charge up the battery and then have it tested. Eliminate that variable then you can go on to eliminate others. Also, if your check engine light came on, get the codes for the cause.

I knew a guy who had funky vibration from his tires. He tried many times to balance them and it never quite went away. Finally he discovered one of the tires had water in it and that was the problem. Must have gotten in from an air compressor somewhere along the line.

Likely the fuel pump went out. Try rapping on the pump with something a like a screwdriver handle and see if it comes to life. May take more than one try. If it does come to life then you need a new pump. If it doesn't, you may still need a pump or there may yet be another problem. But check this first.

Sounds like it could be a rear shock problem.

That's the kit I bought for my 1990 EA82.

I had similar troubles too. Add an ignition relay. Seems to be a good solution

Good opportunity to get yourself a full sized spare. Put the bent rim with a spare tire and the new rim on the car for use.