ausubaru92

I was a little dubious when he told me but thought that it was still possiable Anybody have any idea what old gen (79-94) subes were worth? Gannon

I think that what he is refering to is the resistors for the Injectors, which i think are located on the left hand strut tower, they are ceramic resistors behind a aluminium plate that also holds the pressure/boost switches Hope i've got it right:drunk: Gannon

The local butcher told me today that his daughter in law, who is japanese, said that the Brumby/Brat is still in production in Japan, but only for the JDM. He said he would like to go over there and import a couple for Aust, (which we all know isnt easy) Anybody else heard of this? Gannon

I saw somewhere that running an EFI car without a Cat will decrease the MPG Is this true? Gannon

Here are the specs.... 1988 White Subaru Brumby Ute, EA82 Turbo Motor, Wrx TMIC, near new paintjob, new clutch,power steering, airconditioning, remote controlled chequerplate Utelid, full alarm system with electric windows and central locking, 5 speed manual with LSD Diff, Lift Kit, sports exhaust, VDO MP3 player, Hertz Speakers + subwoffer, Sports steering wheel, side bars, tinted windows, turbo timer, nudge bar, spot lights AU $9490 Negotiable Here is the page http://www.ausubaru.com/ausubaru/html/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=3527 I saw a brumby with a wrx hood scoop in Port Macquarie that didnt have a IC, it was just for show, but a nice brumby, painted Metallic dark blue:brow: I reckon that the wrx intercooler will fit very easy on the brumby/brat. ie with little modification. Gannon

here is one that uses a wrx scoop This brumby was for sale for nearly $10K

i didnt say it was feesable or even worth the trouble. It was just a theory i came up with while daydreaming the basic idea was a centre transfer that actually changed its ratio proportional to the steering. therefore on a corner, the front drive is spinning faster than the rear (which is what happens in a dif) but instead of the pressure on the drive shaft forcing a differnce of touque in the diff,.. the steering angle will change the actuall gear ratio and provide positive power to 100% of the driveline But nevermind, it was only a thought, never intended to be considered practical:drunk:

I my daily course of daydreaming at work i was thinking about the centre diff of a 4wd and realised that wouldn't it be good to have prefect 50 50 split with perfect 100% power to all 4 wheels. I have a soloution! Ever heard of a variable gear ratio, i think its like a cone shaped gear that a second gear slides along to provide variable ratio, and there are tractors that have IVT (infinitely variable transmission) Now my idea is to have this variable ratio in the centre diff that is coupled to the steering, and thus alter the centre ratio to prevent binding on corners ect. but keep 100% of the power to the wheels I know this prob not feesable but its an idea. Gannon

I was at my girlfriends and her brother (14yo) was driving his fathers old mazda ute around a paddock trying to make it drift, he was really trying but wasnt achieving much. He had asked me several times before to take my wagon but i declined. But i needed to send an SMS (which means a drive to the top of the hill) So i drove up there, sent my message and he hopped into my car and asked me to try to drift, i would have said, 'nah i cant be bothered' but this time it was raining and i was curious:brow: Put her in 4low and have her heaps, into 2nd at 5k revs, driving straight and then full lock left. All i can say is WOW, i couldnt believe it, 720deg, all 4 wheels spinning, grass and mud flinging everywhere. The young teenager who was used to seeing silvias and celicas on tar sliding sideways was Show em oldschool subaru spirit Anyway thats my blab

I work in a grocery store (IGA) on a saturday arvo and serve in the bottle'o and our biggest seller is prob Tooheys New, then VB. Well dont sell that much fosters, we actually sell more 'fosters lightice'. I actually dont drink much beer, im more of a Rum and Coke guy Thats my blab:drunk:

I was working today and saw a guy making a handrail from 2" gal pipe. He was cutting it, bending it and welding it, but the thing i noticed was that he was bending it with a small portable pipe bender, the ones that have a hydrolylic car jack and the bends were unkrinked and weren't squashed, (like those from an exhaust shop) Anyway,.. can this gal pipe (i think it is cast) be used as a turbo header? Will it crack, will it melt, will it work? BTW. it was pretty thick walled

OK, as far as the crossmember goes, has anybody just heated it and bashed it to fit? Not sure where i will run the coolant, i will have to wait till i get the engine set up first. Would the stock turbo be best or would i be better getting a different one? Cheers Gannon

Miles,. your last post confuses me, but the mpfi motor i am getting is an 89, so will the ecu handle boost also,.. how much boost is bypassed with the mpfi cams? My plan... 89 MPFI with Turbo fitted on, oil from oil pump plug, coolant from drain plug, oil into sump, coolant into intake Anything else i have left out? Thanks

ok,i assume i can run a turbo with the mpfi cams, wont this just mean that a small amount of boosted air will flow through the head before the valve closes? Can a NA ecu handle a turbo (plan on adding megasquirt in future) U guys are a great source if info Cheers Gannon

As far as i know it is a small coil which induces a voltage like a generator when the splines on the compressor pass it its possiable that it isnt close enough and not creating enough voltage its also possiable that a wire is broken in the sensor or wiring harness and only making intemittent contact Hope this helps Gannon

Thanks guys for the info, its all useful:cool: Whereabouts on the coolant lines did you tap into? Is the plug on the oil pump where the stock turbo gets its oil? Where is the coolant normally sourced from? Pics would be great Cheers Gannon

Where do the oil and coolant lines join the head? i think i found the oil ones but im not sure (this is on a turbo head that i have lying around,.. cracked) Im considering a high comp turbo now, im gonna look at the parts car on sunday I just need a rough idea of what has to be done to the motor before i whack a turbo on Obviously crossmember, turbo exhaust, needed intake pipes, mounting brackets ect will also be needed Thanks Gannon

Just curious, cos if you lowered the boost, had some kind of water injection and an IC, wouldn't this give better low rev power plus the top end of a Turbo? What has to be done to MPFI heads to fit the turbo? Is it just the Oil and Coolant points? Found a complete 92 mpfi wagon (not roadworthy, crashed) for less than $500 Considering turboin the motor:brow: Thanks in advance Gannon

The benifits behind tuned or equal length pipes is that each pipe has a volume that matches the volume of the cylinder/s that feed it, in our case, the pipe before the collector should have a volume of 900cc. (2cyls = 1/2 of 1.8lt) this is so that one pulse of air comes into the collector exactly after the other one stops. this results in a constant flow of air. In a non tuned system, two pulses of air are entering the collector at once, or there is a gap between pulses, creating turbulence and backpressure. Think of it as trying to pour 2 cups of water down the sink at once, compared to pouring one after the other,... and if there is no gap between pours, the momentum of the first pour will suck the next one down I think that can be roughly compared to exhaust systems:drunk: Hope this helps Gannon

First of all, what kinda engine is it,. Carby, EFI (SPFI/MPFI) or Turbo My first suggestion is if its temp related.. If its Carb'd, it could be the choke If its fuel injected, could be a temp sensor Other than that always replace ur fuel filter first Cheers Gannon

I was on my way to work at 6:30 thismorning and the engine died.:-\ Pulled over and tried the starter,... Cranks ok but sounds different and doesent fire:banghead: I lifted the hood and removed the Disty cap, cranked the motor again and noticed that it hadnt moved. Grrrr So i rang mum and i drove her car to work. Is it possiable to re-do the belts while the engine is still in the car or is it easier to remove the engine (my tappet cover gaskets, oil pump and oil pan seals need replacing soon) Looks like I am gonna be driving the Commodore for a short while, (I cant get over how differnt it feels to drive, 3.8ltr V6, a RWD and Power Steering, takes a little getting used to) Cheers Gannon

Sorry, i didn't realise he said 84. But be it the EA82T or EA81T, the conversion should be pretty much the same and its not that differnt to putting the EA82T into an EA81 car, is it? I still say your best bit would be to go to Ausubaru.com cos there is local information there as well as locals which can help you. Cheers Gannon

MAF = Mass Airflow Sensor (a sensor on the intake of a fuel injected engine for calculating the volume of air entering the engine) The spyder intake is found on the XT Turbo, Known as the Vortex in Aust, but unsure if we got the spyder intake here.Basically what LPGsuperchargedBrumby said and they flow better. As to Gen3,.. I have no idea Cheers Gannon

Hi, im also from the great land down under looking for a turbo conversion My first advice would be to join the Ausubaru.com forum and keep and eye out on there, (actually there is a post there now on it called " EA82T into Carby 85 Wagon" Second, do a search on here and ausubaru cos this is a very common topic Hope this helps Cheers Gannon

there is this one in aus, it has a hood scoop off a Nissan Patrol Turbo DieselIf i was gonna put a scoop on mine, i would use one of these