ausubaru92

I want to EFI my soob for very little $$$$$. SPFI is not avaliable here so could I use an EFI system out of any other 1.8 - 2.0 Ltr engine? I assume that if I got it out of a common car, like a corolla or laser, (someone from ausubaru suggested the SPFI off an early 1.6 Suzuki Swift) would make it much cheaper. Opinions PLEASE!!!

Has anybody changed the colour of their Instrument panel Illumination? I was thinking of how it could be done, simply colouring the globes?, using LED's?, has anybody tried/done/succeded this before?

I say we make a new thread on this topic, find out if anyone else has ideas or theories

The Illumination on the panel with the tach is yellow/orangish, the old one was green. Im trying to think of ways to change colours. If I got glass paint and coloured the globes, I could have any colour I wanted, i was thinking maybe blue

It's Done.... Whooohoo The Park brake problem only exists while the engine isnt running(dunno why) Its SOOOO sweet to see my tach move with engine speed P.S. 555ron..... I wont be able to get time to help you, sorry. Its an easy conversion though, just be sure to label all the wires before you start cutting them, and have a voltmeter handy, just to check things if they dont seem right.

I got a pic of my wagon, and had a bit of a play around with painshop pro and the body kit would improve the looks of it heaps Are they avaliable in Aust? Is there much work invloved in fitting them to a wagon? What am i expected to pay

I actually thought that a restriction on the exhaust inlet (something that works similar to the apeture on the lens of a camera) The origional idea aroused when we dimantled our fireplace and i saw the gate at the top for restricting the smoke out the chimney

I connected the pink wire from my cluster to the yelllow/blue wire from the car. In my Gregorys manual there is only the handbrake switch in the circuit, it doesnt connect to any other circuits. Have I got an earth leak? It must be the correct wire cos the voltage on the wire changes when i apply the handbrake Did you connect the fuel light? if so, where to?

Thats sounds odd in my sube, i had to run a constant hot from the battery cos mine didnt have one. Cant remember what colours where what though If all else fails, take a wire from the ciggy lighter, it should be switched with acc. what are you using for ground?

I was reading somewhere that the inlet on the turbo dertimines how fast it will spool up, small inlet = spool up at low rpm/ sacrifice high rpm boost and vise versa for the large inlet. So... if a turbo was to have a variable aperture at the inlet, where it could be restricted at low rpm and provide fast moving exhaust air and be opened up at high rpm to provide little restriction. I know very little about turbos but this just crossed my mind Anybody got any opinions???

I bought mine for $45 off a guy who rolled his sube and was selling parts. Centre part works, all i have to do now is connect all the wires up and put the dash back on. P.S. is there a reason why my park brake light stays on all the time now???? I tested the plug for the dash and it reads as 10v between the connector and +12v with handbrake off and reads 12v when the handbrake is on??? why???

im glad to hear that it is do-abledid u run a new wire from the coil??? I think it will work, does your dash with the tach have a small circuit board with an IC on the back of it? damn those diodes (well i hope that they are the problem)

Ok,.. i have got both panels lying in pieces on the floor. I think i have broken the new panel:banghead: , i hooked up the centre part to a 12v battery and tested all the wires but i connected two wires from a same circuit and i think i have burnt a few diodes cos there was a spark, a smell and when i connect one door light, 2 come on So its off to the electrical parts store tomorro. meanwhile,.... the wires in my sube are nothing like those on the back of my new panel, but i have got nearly all of them sussed out, its gonna be messy but effective. There is no yellow wire behind the dash, so i will have to run one from the coil. alexb,.. u r in for a challenge and dr. rx those pics helped but unfortunately the pin were in different positions

I have a similar problem but it sounds like bad CV's, the only catch is that the CV's are only a month old. The sound is worse when the car is cold, and its realy bad when I take a corner under power, but i can notice a vibration when driving nearly straight, and the noise varies with car speed. I had a look and noticed that there is a bit of play between the DOJ and the splined shaft from the tranny. could this be it

I have a burgandy sube, and the pain colour is 09,.. and im looking for some paint to fix up a few small spots of rust I also want to remove the 4WD sticker and the Sportswagon stickers beacuse they have cracked, faded and look crap now. After I remove them I will be wanting to buy some new stickers:brow: (I realy shouldn't steal this thread but I was gonna start this topic tonight anyway)

Quote from alexb: now the problem is to do the same on the original panel cuse nothing is writen on it , how did you do it? I havent yet, thats gonna happen this weekend (all going as planned) Ok... The Yellow wire behind the dash goes to the terminal with the yellow wires connected to it on the ignition coil. The from dash Black/White wires should connect to the Ignition circuit and the Black wires should connect to ground. Dr Rx,.. thanks for those Pics, ur a lifesaver

Dr. RX ....... sorry if i sounded a little demanding, i just realy want to get this organised so i can attack it on the weekend alexb.... it should be a yellow one, the black/white one goes to the fuse box.

any ideas of what it could be??? Im gonna ring a mechanic where i git thyem from to get his opinion

Dr. RX, do u have a diagram that could help me??? Ive worked out all the wires except one, a White and Blue one, which follows a pcb track to a IC and a few components above the speedo. what could this be??? My old dash dosent have a fuel light, will my car have a wire there for one?? Alexb,.... if u look at the back of the panel, most of the pcb tracks are marked, and those that arent, if you follow them, its pretty easy to work out what they do. the centre display, (the one with the picture of the car) will have to be dismantled, (its easy) and the names of the wires/lights are marked on the inside side of the pcb. The wiring identification will have to be done to the donor dash as well as the one currently in the car,.. then once all your wires are identified, connect them up See how u go and post abck if u have any problems

camelman99@hotmail.com is my email Ive worked out all the pins (i think) except for two that go to a mini circuit board on the inside with a IC and a few other components ALEXB,.. i assume that the wire for the tach will be there but if it isnt, you should only have to run a wire from the low voltage side of the Ign coil, (as far as i know) I will tell you more once i get a diagram and i work out mine Thanks Dr. RX

Even a picture of the back of the instrument cluster with the names of the pins would be fine I assume the actual pins would be the same, but maybe different coloured wires. Ive worked out the pins for the central display ( the one with the picture of the car which shows the open doors ect) but i need to work out the ones for the gauges ect. Any help would be greatly appreciated

I got a instrument panel with a Tach last week with the intention to install it this weekend, i started yesterday arvo to discover that all the wires are different colours, and even some of the plugs are different. GRRRRRR:banghead: Where can i get detailed diagrams so I can direct the right wires to the right plugs, otherwise i will have to test each wire individually, which will take days.

Brand new complete shafts MorganM,. what is meant by Fuji stock lift cranked in???? Its not when im going dead straight, but if i turn slightly left or right it clonks (only sometimes) On any steep corner or intersection The speed of the noise varies with my speed It only realy happens when I am accelerating (I even noticed it the other day when i decelerated to an intersection in 2nd gear, using the engine as the brakes) Is there supposed to be any free-play between the DOJ and the splined shaft that comes from the tranny? Could it be my bearings? It sounds like both sides are doing it, but not always at the same time

I recently changed both my front CV's and now they clonk worse than before, even when going straight. Its most noticable when its cold,..? WHY???? Its noticable when I am driving straight if i put her under load (like WOT in second gear) They are only 3 weeks old ... WHY WHY WHY

mine does that to, and i also press the accelerator to drop it down, i think it is supposed to do this, something to do with the low emissions warm up i guess